redbeard Posted January 4, 2022 Report Share Posted January 4, 2022 (edited) I am a new owner of an Aquarest Premium 600, powered by a Balboa RS101 System Pack with a 2 HPR 2-speed pump. This is a plug-n-play tub which I converted over to 240V option. This is my first hot tub, so I apologize if I get any terminolgy wrong, but I'm learning. I am getting an SN error that I cannot get rid of. I'm reset it multiple times, checked my connections, cleaned my filter, checked my jets and purged any possible air locks. It's winter where I live and the temps have dropped recently. Not sure if that is a factor. Also, my tub is on a gravel base, and it has sunk slightly, causing the heater to not be perfectly level. Also, not sure if that matters. I've contacted the distributor and the manufacturer, and some local repair people, but no one has reached back out yet. I'm hoping there is something I missing. The only consisent thing I have noticed is a persistent clicking coming from a relay labeled K2. Based on what I've seen on this forum, that's not uncommon. Thanks for any advice! Photos-001.zip Edited January 4, 2022 by redbeard added relay location Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted January 4, 2022 Report Share Posted January 4, 2022 First... anytime you get an error code always remove the filter and run without until issue is fixed. New just cleaned or otherwise...remove it from the equation. The sensors are located along the chrome heater tube. One at each end and screw into the heater tube with the black nuts. They then connect to the circuit board. Try and disconnect them from the circuit board and make sure the connections are clean and then reconnect them but swap them around and see if there is any change. If there is no change you might want to remove them from the heater tube and again make sure they are clean and there is no debris or rust on them. Unfortunately you might have to drain the spa to do this. Now because it is a remote heater you might be able to remove them one at a time and put your (spouse) finger over the hole while you get a quick look without soaking the spa pack/circuit board just make sure there is nothing below that would cause damage if it got wet as water will squirt out. Remove it wipe it off and put back in. If you have a multi meter you could test the sensors but it can be difficult to do for a novice. You might also want to remove the heater tube and look down inside the tube to make sure there is nothing inside blocking the flow of water...but you would have to drain it if there are no gate/slice valves to section off the water. When the main pump is running is it moving water with good flow? Make sure all the jets are open and flowing water and none are sucking in instead of flowing out. If there are any sucking in then you have a blockage in behind the jet (pine needles are killers) Has the spa run for an extended period of time since you swapped over to 240V? Let us know results 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted January 4, 2022 Report Share Posted January 4, 2022 If you have to replace the sensors and are worried about freezing place a small thermostatically controlled space heater inside to keep water from freezing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbeard Posted January 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 Thanks much for the guidance. It's been running on 240V since August. When the main pump is running, the flow is not good. It quickly shuts off. I hadn't noticed it orignally, but there was blown fuse that I have sinced changed. I was hopeful that was the issue, but it was not. Not sure if that is an indication of the real issue. Thanks for the tip on the heater. I will report back with my results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbeard Posted January 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 Filter has been removed, and heat sensors have been switched location on the board. It gurgled a bit after initial start-up, and then displayed a DR error. After a few minutes, the SN error appeared again. I'll be draining it tomorrow and checking the heater tube as advised. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbeard Posted January 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 Heater has been removed and inspected. Sensors are clean and look fine and there is no evidence of blockage. I refilled it and tested it, but the SN code still remains. I've decided to drain it and winterize it as I don't want to risk having issues with freezing. Is there anything else I should do, besides learn how to use a voltmeter? Why on Earth did I buy a hot tub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 21 hours ago, redbeard said: It gurgled a bit after initial start-up, and then displayed a DR error. After a few minutes, the SN error appeared again. When it starts up and gets to PR on the display press temp up once to bypass the priming mode (PR) does the pump start up in low speed and move water? What you describe above sounds like the pump is not starting or there is a flow restriction and goes to DR (dry) first then SN. The DR error means there is little or no flow going through the heater and the gurgling is the water that is in the heater is boiling. It will boil in a fraction of a second without flow and send the DR code. But it could be a sensor as well but check the flow. Place a small space heater inside if you are worried about freezing. Test the fuse that says SC 25 or SC 30 on it if the pump won't run at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbeard Posted January 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 49 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said: When it starts up and gets to PR on the display press temp up once to bypass the priming mode (PR) does the pump start up in low speed and move water? What you describe above sounds like the pump is not starting or there is a flow restriction and goes to DR (dry) first then SN. The DR error means there is little or no flow going through the heater and the gurgling is the water that is in the heater is boiling. It will boil in a fraction of a second without flow and send the DR code. But it could be a sensor as well but check the flow. Place a small space heater inside if you are worried about freezing. Test the fuse that says SC 25 or SC 30 on it if the pump won't run at all. The pump does not move water, or even start up as far as I can tell. I just winterized it as best I could, following manufacturer's instructions. I removed the wet end on the pump and there was no blockage there either. Should I remove the pump completely or the heater completely? I'll test the fuse. Anything else I should try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted January 6, 2022 Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 1 hour ago, redbeard said: I just winterized it as best I could How cold is it? Get a heater in it or you will be in for major repair if temps are anywhere near freezing. Test that fuse first. If the fuse is good go to the back end of the motor and there is a quarter sized dust cover dead center of the motor. Remove it and there is a slot in the shaft of the motor that you can put a flat head screwdriver in and see if the shaft will turn freely to make sure the motor is not seized. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted January 6, 2022 Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 It's important to remember that all of these errors (except pr, which is not an error) originate with the sensors. At least, if I am thinking of the right control system. Post pics of the circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area. Usually an SN error is a fauly sensor. This can prevent the pump from turning on. Sensors can be tested with an ohm meter set for 20k ohms. Boilout in the heater is almost always a stuck relay on the board or faulty pump/fuse, and can damage the sensors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbeard Posted January 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 4 minutes ago, RDspaguy said: It's important to remember that all of these errors (except pr, which is not an error) originate with the sensors. At least, if I am thinking of the right control system. Post pics of the circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area. Usually an SN error is a fauly sensor. This can prevent the pump from turning on. Sensors can be tested with an ohm meter set for 20k ohms. Boilout in the heater is almost always a stuck relay on the board or faulty pump/fuse, and can damage the sensors. Let me know if the clicking sound in the video sounds like a stuck relay. Temps are really cold here currently so the tub is currently winterized with a thermostatic heater just in case. I'll test the sensors but I need to buy a voltmeter first and learn how to use it. VID_20220104_151019.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted January 6, 2022 Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 The clicking sound is a relay, but does not show it is stuck, just that it is trying to turn something on and off. It should not be cycling like that. This could result from a number of things, including a faulty sensor and a wiring issue. Who wired that spa? Not a licensed electrician, I'm guessing. What is the exposed wire I see on the left? Are you sure it is wired correctly? Those packs are junk. They're for bathtubs and have no business in a spa. What brand is the spa? The way that is plumbed I seriously doubt it can handle 240v to the heater without getting errors. There's not enough flow through the heater to keep up with the heat produced. The jumper, j11, by the topside plug, is in the wrong position for 240v operation. And the board looks damaged just left of that over a large area, but that might be a reflection so check that for damage. I give it 3 years tops before that tub is junk from setting it on smooth gravel, and that's if it's fiberglass. If it's tupperware, I give it 6 months. You need to support that tub on 12x12 pavers at least. Water weighs 8 pounds per gallon. How much does it hold? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbeard Posted January 7, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 1 hour ago, RDspaguy said: The clicking sound is a relay, but does not show it is stuck, just that it is trying to turn something on and off. It should not be cycling like that. This could result from a number of things, including a faulty sensor and a wiring issue. Who wired that spa? Not a licensed electrician, I'm guessing. What is the exposed wire I see on the left? Are you sure it is wired correctly? Those packs are junk. They're for bathtubs and have no business in a spa. What brand is the spa? The way that is plumbed I seriously doubt it can handle 240v to the heater without getting errors. There's not enough flow through the heater to keep up with the heat produced. The jumper, j11, by the topside plug, is in the wrong position for 240v operation. And the board looks damaged just left of that over a large area, but that might be a reflection so check that for damage. I give it 3 years tops before that tub is junk from setting it on smooth gravel, and that's if it's fiberglass. If it's tupperware, I give it 6 months. You need to support that tub on 12x12 pavers at least. Water weighs 8 pounds per gallon. How much does it hold? It was wired by a licensed electrician. It's on 6" of tampered gravel and pavers. The peastone is just dressing. It holds about 908 gallons. It's an Aquarest. It's cheap, I know, but I got it as a trial tub to see if it'd get used. I didn't think it'd be SO cheaply made however. It must be a reflection you are seeing as the board is fine. I'll check the jumper and the exposed wire. I agree the pack is junk! What should I do with J11 jumper? Also, if I was to upgrade to a better spa pack what would you recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 J11 cover both pins. In the little red square on circuit board switch A10 to down position. Hard to upgrade pack due to remote heater and the available space in the cabinet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted January 8, 2022 Report Share Posted January 8, 2022 On 1/6/2022 at 5:46 PM, RDspaguy said: Are you sure it is wired correctly? Do you have a voltmeter or multimeter? Test voltage at the terminal bar, 2nd terminal to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, 4th to 2nd. Post results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbeard Posted January 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2022 5 hours ago, RDspaguy said: Do you have a voltmeter or multimeter? Test voltage at the terminal bar, 2nd terminal to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, 4th to 2nd. Post results. I bought one today. Testing to commence tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbeard Posted February 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2022 update, now the weather is warming up. Voltmeter test came back fine. Everything is getting correct voltage. Replaced both fuses to be safe, as one was dead. Filled tub and started it up. Pump "buzzes" or "hums" now, and I'm still getting an SN code. I'm assuming it's an air lock after reading online, and will purge the pump and try again later today. Any other advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted February 22, 2022 Report Share Posted February 22, 2022 It's not an air lock if the pump is buzzing. 2 hours ago, redbeard said: test came back fine. Everything is getting correct voltage On 1/8/2022 at 1:47 PM, RDspaguy said: voltage at the terminal bar, 2nd terminal to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, 4th to 2nd. Post results. I can only do so much from here. You have to be my hands. If you can't do what I ask I can't help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbeard Posted February 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2022 51 minutes ago, RDspaguy said: It's not an air lock if the pump is buzzing. I can only do so much from here. You have to be my hands. If you can't do what I ask I can't help you. I'll will retest and post the results. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbeard Posted February 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2022 I haven't retested yet, but the 20A fuse just blew again. Third one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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