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Flow probems


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We have just re-plumbed (and re-surfaced) an older in-ground hot tub that was on the property when we moved in -we replaced most of the pipe and as well as the 2-speed pump. But we just cant get the new set-up working properly. We have had a variety of error codes (HH/LF) that indicate a low-flow but just cant figure out the ultimate cause. We have a brand new filter in there (and have checked it frequently), the water level is above the intake, we have bled air from the pump, and we have also replaced both M7 temperature sensors in case they were the problem. I am hoping someone has other ideas of what to check.

Here is what happens: After re-setting at the breaker, the pump appears to complete its priming cycle, we get temperature displayed, and the pump seams to be circulating water (can see/feel output at the jets). Then..after a short while the pump stops running and we hear the heater kick on.. which then leads to the HH/LF errors  - presumably as there is no flow when the water is getting heated. So it seems the pump and heater are out of sync but I don't know why or how to fix.

Another mystery that may or may not be related... the faucet before the pump was to help bleed air/drain ? from the system (This was in the original set up so we simply replaced). When it is slightly cracked open the pump appears to draw more water and the jets get more vigorous (water doesn't come out the faucet). If we open it further water will then start to come out... is this some kind of pressure issue?

I have included a picture of our set-up. Thanks for any suggestions!

 

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Ok. Here are a bunch more pics. Sorry the circuit diagram is a little black - had a relay blow about 3 years ago. Circuit board was replaced at that time). Before we re-plumed and moved the pumps/controller etc. out of the dirt onto a platform things had been mostly operating fine except the pump we replaced was noisy and had been running a lot more than normal.

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The 4 white wires top left all in a row determine if the component is 120V or 240V. This section where the white wires connect to the circuit board is called White AC.

Now just below where the red incoming power wire is there is a section called RED AC and it has 4 wire connections and 2 more that are sideways below those 4. These wire connections are for 240V components. You # 1 pump is 240V so you need to move the white wire from W1 down from white AC to red AC. W1 is located just to the right of where the pump connects to the circuit board. 

Next you have a connection to the board for a Blower. You will need to find out if the blower is 120V or 240V. If it is 240V then you need to move the white wire at W7 down from white AC to red AC. 

You posted a photo of the schematic on the inside cover of the pack but we can't see all of it and need to see the missing part to make sure you have all the "Dip" switches set correctly. The Dip switches relate to the little red box along the bottom middle of the circuit board marked "Switchbank A". 

 

Let us know results

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17 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

The 4 white wires top left all in a row determine if the component is 120V or 240V. This section where the white wires connect to the circuit board is called White AC.

Now just below where the red incoming power wire is there is a section called RED AC and it has 4 wire connections and 2 more that are sideways below those 4. These wire connections are for 240V components. You # 1 pump is 240V so you need to move the white wire from W1 down from white AC to red AC. W1 is located just to the right of where the pump connects to the circuit board. 

Next you have a connection to the board for a Blower. You will need to find out if the blower is 120V or 240V. If it is 240V then you need to move the white wire at W7 down from white AC to red AC. 

You posted a photo of the schematic on the inside cover of the pack but we can't see all of it and need to see the missing part to make sure you have all the "Dip" switches set correctly. The Dip switches relate to the little red box along the bottom middle of the circuit board marked "Switchbank A". 

 

Let us know results

Ok.. This was super helpful.

It turns out that the old pump was 120V but my new one was 240V so needing to move the wire from W1 to red AC makes total sense.

I didn't update  the blower (although it looks ridiculously old) but it looks to be 240V also. (I attached a pic) so I think that wiring was inherited wrong and have moved the white wire from W7 to red AC as well.

New pic of circuit board with wires moved to red AC attached.

I have attached the pic showing the other side of the inside cover that details the dip switches. So far only dip 3 is 'on'. Any advice on if these should be changed would be much appreciated.

I'll wait to hear on the dip switches before I power it up again.

Thank you!

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