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Eaton Cutler-Hammer 60 amps Plug In 2-Pole Circuit Breaker #BR260 is compatible with my Electric Panel in my house, now where do I find a 60amp GFCI Box ?


JimboCh
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You can use that box for the Spa and then use a CH BR series breaker (or UL listed equivalent) in your main panel.

4 circuit box simply means it is capable of 4 circuits if you replace the breaker that comes with it with 2 dual breakers.

The ACE breaker is a BR series. It's fine in your main panel.

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One other question, do you know if the CH Spa boxes are interchangeable with the GFCI Breakers?

Will a Ch260 GFCI fit in a CH250spa Box(older model box) and work correctly?

If you ever seen a CH Spa Box, the inside decal sticker shows CH30Amp,CH40 Amp, Ch50amp, CH60amp at the top, like a generic sticker on all their boxes, thinking maybe you can change breakers in box to whatever you need?

Does anyone know anything about that?

 

 

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Update: Been a change of plans over night. Last night I found a guy in upstate NY selling  a Cutler-hammer CH50SPA 125 amp sub panel electrical breaker box with 50amp GFCI breaker for $50.00............I offered $60 for him to send it to me, he agreed. :)

I can resell the 50 amp GFCI breaker also.

So this morning I called Eaton's Tech phone number and asked are those boxes interchangeable with their GFCI Breakers.

The person on the phone said the bus bars in the boxes are rated from 30amps to 70 amp breakers.

 

So I got the box for $60 and bought the 60 amp GFCI on Amazon for $200....so all in on the box for $260. I guess it could be worse, but I'm much happier have the GFCI located on the side of my house about 10 ft from hot tub and the regular 60 amp from Ace Hardware for $15.00

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lighting-and-electrical/circuit-breakers-fuses-and-panels/circuit-breakers/31493

 

Eaton/ Cutler Hammer Ch260gf 2 pole 60 amp gfi/gfci for ch series panel only from Amazon.

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With breakers there are a few things to know. Most manufacturers make a "homeline" breaker, which is universal to other brands of "homeline" breakers. These are standard for siemens, challenger, eaton, murray, midwest, and a few others I can't remember right now. Cutler-Hammer and Square D have a homeline, but also have their own proprietary type that is not compatible with any other brand. These are often what is used by electricians, if they are what is carried by local electrical supply houses. Compare the connection points on the back of the breaker for compatability when in doubt.

That box has very little room inside and #6 is not very flexible. I would (and usually do) get a midwest.

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19 minutes ago, RDspaguy said:

With breakers there are a few things to know. Most manufacturers make a "homeline" breaker, which is universal to other brands of "homeline" breakers. These are standard for siemens, challenger, eaton, murray, midwest, and a few others I can't remember right now. Cutler-Hammer and Square D have a homeline, but also have their own proprietary type that is not compatible with any other brand. These are often what is used by electricians, if they are what is carried by local electrical supply houses. Compare the connection points on the back of the breaker for compatability when in doubt.

That box has very little room inside and #6 is not very flexible. I would (and usually do) get a midwest.

This is the box that I's getting, it's12 inches high. and quite wide also., Should be plenty of room to move around the #6 wire.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

May be an image of text that says 'TEST'

No photo description available.No photo description available.

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46 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

You would think...but no. Hooking the wire into the gfci and then getting the gfci hooked in to the box can test your patients some days.

I will take my time and not get frustrated and git-r-done!  The hot tub out there looks lonely, my wife and I can't wait to get out there. Have some items coming in next week in the mail, hopefully within the next 7 - 10 days we get it filled and running.

I'm getting tired running around to home improvement stores and electric supply houses and not having what I want. Decided to just order it online and wait the 3 to 5 days for delivery.

All of the posters on here have helped greatly and much appreciated. Thank you

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I don't get the wiring... Page 18 here: http://acc-spas.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/77227-ACC-Manual-062016.pdf

I know what you posted earlier (below) but I am looking at everything and to me somethings not right. @RDspaguy@cranbiz Thoughts?

"I got these directions from the spa dealer:

"Your spa needs to be hard wired with 220V wiring. The wire service included (2 hot 1 ground) Outdoor rated #6 or heavier wiring is recommended. Your wiring will originate from your home electric panel, run to a GFCI and then be connected(hard wired) to the Smart Touch 2000 electrical pack inside your spa. If you are using conduit under deck or concrete pad, this is the area it should terminate.

You need to connect the black and white wires to (L1 and L2. The white Load neutral is not required with our spas so you can leave that  disconnected. ACC has modified the terminal connections so now you can't hook up a white neutral to the pack. (There were electricians re-wiring the Smart Touch 2000 packs in the past and causing problems). "

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26 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

I don't get the wiring... Page 18 here: http://acc-spas.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/77227-ACC-Manual-062016.pdf

I know what you posted earlier (below) but I am looking at everything and to me somethings not right. @RDspaguy@cranbiz Thoughts?

"I got these directions from the spa dealer:

"Your spa needs to be hard wired with 220V wiring. The wire service included (2 hot 1 ground) Outdoor rated #6 or heavier wiring is recommended. Your wiring will originate from your home electric panel, run to a GFCI and then be connected(hard wired) to the Smart Touch 2000 electrical pack inside your spa. If you are using conduit under deck or concrete pad, this is the area it should terminate.

You need to connect the black and white wires to (L1 and L2. The white Load neutral is not required with our spas so you can leave that  disconnected. ACC has modified the terminal connections so now you can't hook up a white neutral to the pack. (There were electricians re-wiring the Smart Touch 2000 packs in the past and causing problems). "

Interesting, have never seen that manual before., my guess is they had problems with these tubs using the neutral extra wiring, I have talked to the guy also on the phone, said only 2 hots and ground were needed.

 

I believe that manual you found is old or something and not currently the right way to wire their now newer tubs?

I guess if something doesn't run right I will be calling for the service department under the warranty.

It's weird, some of that manual you linked above, they sent me pdf's  of some of the pages of that manual  but not all. The electrical parts of that manual they did not send me, probably not to confuse me when wiring up the tub.

Only wiring info I got on the tub , is what I copied and pasted what you see above about 2 hots and a ground, no neutral needed.

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1 hour ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Is the white a hot lead?

Using 6/2 wire, only has white and black and ground in the wire, both white and black are hot right, doesn't matter which one goes on L1 or L2 right?

The post(neutral) in the middle that I didn't use has no wires to it at all. So I put the white one on the post that had a white wire wire on and the black wire I put on the post that had a black wire on it.

 

Is that wrong?

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This is what was sent to me from the spa dealer guy I talked to on the phone as far as hooking up the electric.

A 60 amp GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt) should be placed somewhere between your spa and the electrical panel in your home for your spa.  Most cities require this by code.  Your electrician can provide these.   

 

Your spa needs to be hard wired with 220V wiring.  The wire service includes (2 Hot, 1 Ground).  Outdoor rated #6 or heavier wiring is recommended.  Your wiring will originate from your home's electrical panel, run to the GFCI, and then be connected (hard wired) directly to the SmartTouch 2000 spa electrical pack inside your spa.  There is no electrical plug on the spa. The spa pack electrical panel is located on the same side as your topside control and approximately directly below (Labeled ‘controller & heater’ in the schematic).  If you are using conduit under a deck or concrete pad, this is the area it should terminate.  Your electrical panels can be accessed by removing the exterior cabinet panel on that side.

 

You need to connect the black and red wires to L1 and L2.  The white load neutral is not required with our spas so you can leave it disconnected.   ACC has modified the terminal connections so now you can't hook up a white neutral to the pack (There were electricians re-wiring the SmartTouch 2000 packs in the past and causing problems). 

 

With the above directions, I don't think there is any other way I could have wired up the spa control panel?

 

Agree?

 

 

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1 minute ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

looks like you can to me. 

Well doesn't seem to matter now anyway right, they said not to use the neutral (Middle Post)

As you can tell I don't  really know that much about electric, if you see something really wrong here please let me know and I will send an email or call the guy where I bought the tub from?

If so let me know what to ask him?

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43 minutes ago, RDspaguy said:

It's fine. Technically speaking, the white wire should be marked with red phase tape, but nobody actually does that anyway. Just make sure you wire it to hot not neutral at the gfci.

I have the house panel 60amp breaker in hand, I plan on connecting both hot wires to the breaker in the bottom, does it matter which hot wire goes in on each side, or doesn't  it matter? and the ground wire will go to the ground in the breaker panel.

 

Now for the GFCI breaker, I assume I connect both hot wires in the bottom of the breaker, and again it doesn't matter which one goes in each right? and ground to ground in the spa panel? Now what about the neutral wire that I think will be coming out of the bottom of the GFCI breaker, do I just tape the end of that off or do I attach it to the neutral  bar in the spa panel?

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4 hours ago, RDspaguy said:

The pigtail attached to the breaker goes to the neutral bar in the panel. The breaker will have 3 connections, do not use the white marked terminal (usually in the center or behind the other connections). 

It does not matter which hot goes in which terminal, as long as it's not the neutral terminal.

Is the above true  for the pigtail even though in the spa control panel I am not using the neutral connection?

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14 hours ago, RDspaguy said:

Yes, the pigtail must be to the neutral bar or the breaker will not test.

Perfect, Thanks

3 wire install pulled off Spadepot.com

Diagram shows a neutral white wire coming off the home service panel to the GFCI Load center, is that needed?

 

 

 

 

 

wire directions.png

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