Paul.h Posted September 29, 2021 Report Share Posted September 29, 2021 I just got a used 2005 artesian gold class emerald spa that does not heat up. I already changed the flow switch and the heater before I realized the circulation pump was never turning on so i get a low flow error (3 blinking dots). When I check the voltage at the terminal on the circuit board I get 48 volts when the other probe is on a neutral terminal. The 3 other jet pumps all get 240. Does this mean I definitely need to replace the whole circuit board? I can’t seem to find am this out since it’s producing some voltage so I was hoping it might be something else? Also would I be able to connect the circulation pump terminal to the jet pump terminal on the circuit board just to see if it works? Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranbiz Posted September 29, 2021 Report Share Posted September 29, 2021 Post up pictures of the spa pack, wiring diagram in the cover and the equipment area and any labels on the circulation pump so we can see what you have. If you unplug the circ pump, what does the voltage read on the circulation pump terminals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul.h Posted September 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2021 Okay thank you. Let me know if there’s time any other pictures that would help. Really weird but the other couple times I used the voltmeter this week on the circ pump terminal and neutral I got 48 volts but just now I got nothing. I made sure the mode was on no econ too so I’m assuming it should be giving out something? The terminal to the left of the circ pump terminal (labeled p51) I get 240 I noticed. The 3 jet pumps work and I get 240 too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul.h Posted September 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2021 I’m a little confused about the diagram because the board is labeled circ pump on top at p36 but on the diagram it’s on the bottom? As you can see I’m a little new to hot tubs. Any help is greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted September 30, 2021 Report Share Posted September 30, 2021 Test for power between p36 black wire and p54 when the circ should be running. Test F6 fuse. Swap it with F3. Test all fuses. Let us know results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul.h Posted September 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2021 So when I test p35 to p54 I don’t get anything (I was getting 48v yesterday). When I check the fuses they all have continuity except the f3 (orange one ). But there doesn’t seem to be a f6 fuse to switch with. The only other fuses are the green time delay fuses on f8, f5, and f2. I tried to show that in the picture below. I’m assuming I can’t switch with one of those since it’s a slightly different size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted September 30, 2021 Report Share Posted September 30, 2021 It is likely the F3 fuse then that needs replacement. Give that a try and let us know results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul.h Posted September 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2021 Okay thanks I’ll try that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul.h Posted September 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2021 Okay that worked! I replaced the fuse and now I’m getting 240 between the circ pump terminal and the neutral terminal. The circ pump still doesn’t turn on and I’m getting the 3 blinking dots for no flow I’m assuming on the display. Does this mean the circ pump just needs to be replaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 1, 2021 Report Share Posted October 1, 2021 If you have power coming off the board and the circ is not working then it is likely the pump. Also looking at the attached photo it looks like it has had a long life. When you remove it stick your finger in and see if the impeller spins or is stuck. I would pop off the top cap and have a look inside for burnt or rusted wires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul.h Posted October 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2021 Yeah it’s a 2005 and I got it used from someone who just said it didn’t heat anymore so I assumed it was the heater but should’ve known to check the circ pump first. I’ll drain it to remove it though and check it out like you said. Thanks a lot! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul.h Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 So I took out the pump and it looks pretty worn down everywhere and older. No rusted wires that I can see and the impeller was stiff but I was able to loosen it up just by spinning it a few times. Is there anything else I should check or do you think it’s just time for a new one? Looks like they’re about 300-400$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 3, 2021 Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 Now that it's free give it a try and see if it works. If it does I would be replacing anyway. Likely the impeller shaft has split and is hanging up in the seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul.h Posted October 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2021 So I just replaced the circulation pump and that turns on and stays on now but I’m still getting the blinking 3 dots. The time and temperature are also blinking. I don’t feel the heater warming up at all and the temp isn’t going up after 20 min at all. Any ideas on what to check for next? Not sure if it matters but when I replaced the heater it wasn’t the same size since they don’t make the same one so the hi limit probe isn’t touching the heater like it should (yellow tag in picture) so I wasn’t sure if that has anything to do with it. I was planning on figuring that out once I get it working. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 14, 2021 Report Share Posted October 14, 2021 3 flashing dots is a flow error. Are you sure the circ is working? Remove the filters until you get it figured out. Remove them from the equation. Can you visually see the flow switch is closed to indicate proper flow? The black hi limit switch in the photo (bottom right with yellow caution sticker) is not installed properly. Has this been corrected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul.h Posted October 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2021 I can see water moving very slowly but not enough to close the flow switch it looks like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul.h Posted October 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2021 Actually I think I might have figured it out. I put the old heater back on that I replaced first so that the hi limit switch is attached to the heater like it should be. Now I’m not getting any 3 dots snd the Dow switch looks like it’s pushed closed like you said. The temperature and time are still blinking but the heat sign is staying on which I’m hoping means that its trying to warm up. The heater isn’t warm to the touch though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted October 15, 2021 Report Share Posted October 15, 2021 Check for voltage to the heater. Test heater for continuity. If the heat indicator is on but you do not have voltage at the heater connection on the board it is a bad relay. If you have voltage but no continuity it is the heater. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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