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2013 Sundance Altamar flashing FLO


charlesb

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I looked around for this issue and really, I'm just wondering if I just need to replace the FLO switch. I'm not sure how to check if the current one works.

I replaced the circ pump 7 months ago as the original one failed. Pumps are working normally all jets and bubbler work normally but the water won't heat because of the FLO error.  Everything was fine until this weekend. I did the typical routine of cleaning the filter, running the spa without the filter to make sure it wasn't it wasn't time to replace it, and doing a complete system clean with Spa Clean. Still have the FLO error so I shut it down to avoid looking at that red light indicator.

I do have a multimeter so what (and where) should I check to see if the flo switch may be the problem? (sorry if it's obvious, I'm a newbie with this wiring.)

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If you turn on the 2 speed pump does flow go away?

 

remove your filter and  see if flo code goes away

if you turn on the 2 speed pump with the side panel off you can see if the flow switch moves

 

my 2003 altamar  my recirc pump was working BUT it was not moving enough water to close flow switch i replaced that pump to fix my problem (flo switch closed for me when i started the 2 speed pump)

 

 

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Edit: The Flow Switch is stuck in the closed position as shown on the pics. Should I try disconnecting it and jumping the circuit to see if the switch is indeed the problem?

[original post below]

So I turned on the two-speed pump and the flow switch did not budge. I tried the single speed pump. Same result. The bubbler? Nada. All three at the same time? Still no movement at all. The pumps are all humming normally (the single speed is practically new) and the tub water's water velocity appears normal when turned on. Are the attached pics showing a "closed" switch that needs to be replaced? It's in this position no matter if pumps are on or off. I get the FLO indicator but it alternates with COOL and the 71 degree temperature.

I also included a pic of the control panel and the module where the wires from the switch run to (it's the smaller grey wire).
 

ControlPanel.jpg

FlowSwitch1.jpg

FlowSwitch2.jpg

FlowSwitchConnection.jpg

Edited by charlesb
Figured out the switch position.
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I received the new flow switch in the mail and was about to replace it.

With the power off to the unit, the flow switch stays open. If the power is on, the flow switch is always closed no matter what combination of pumps I use and the FLO message alternates with COOL and the temp.

Does this confirm a bad switch? Or is something even weirder going on?

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31 minutes ago, charlesb said:

I received the new flow switch in the mail and was about to replace it.

With the power off to the unit, the flow switch stays open. If the power is on, the flow switch is always closed no matter what combination of pumps I use and the FLO message alternates with COOL and the temp.

Does this confirm a bad switch? Or is something even weirder going on?

On your spa, the only pump that pushes through the flow switch is the circulation pump.  Running pump 1, pump 2, and/or the air blower shouldn't make a difference. 

You can put a meter on the flow switch to see what is going on.  Shut the power off to the tub.  Take the sensor harness off of the board.  Remove the 2 pins for the flow switch.  Test for continuity when it is open and closed.  You will want a meter that actually measures ohms, not just continuity, as a defective flow switch can read somewhere in the middle of open and closed.

Open should be infinite ohms

Closed should be very close to 0 ohms

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I paid 38 bucks for the new switch so I figured I might as well get it installed while I waited for a response. RDspaguy said it had to be replaced anyways.

I did that and (after making sure the wired were pushed all the way into the connector), the FLO error disappeared and everything is back to normal.

38 bucks instead of a service call and unit from the dealer (30 miles away in the next county). 👍👍👍

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