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Electrical Problem Weird Neutral Issue Spa Won't Turn On


RobNew

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Hi everyone,

I've come looking for some help with a weird electrical problem I'm having with my strong spa. I've follow the manual trouble shooting and emailed the tech which lead me to a $500 purchase of a new spa pack.  Installed the new pack today and that was not the problem. I've emailed the tech back but I'm running out of ideas what the problem could be.

I'll try and describe the problem.  Spa will not turn on. Top side control will not light up. GFCI breaker does NOT trip. Fuses checked out good.

At the GFCI breaker and on: Output side Red to Ground 120 v; Black to Ground 120 V; R and Bl 240 v. 

Black to White (bus) 0 v; Red to White (bus) 240 v; White (bus) to Ground 120 v.

When the the 3 wires are disconnect at the spa pack.  The voltage is correct and the white wire has 0.  When I test continuity at the spa pack between the connector white and black there is continuity (on both spa packs).

Could I have two faulty spa packs? Why would there be continuity between the black and white hook up connector at the spa pack? 

Thanks

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Here is a wiring diagram inside the box.  I've gone over the dip switches and conversion 240 v set up.  Removed jumper wire. Dipswitch 10 down.  The weird thing is that I turned off the hot tub at the breaker and emptied it during the hot summer months. It was working fine then.  Now it won't turn back on.

 

image.thumb.png.16a4c1b81d1d043c1a488d1e61b4c7d6.png

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Verify wiring inside the pack white to black 120V white to red 120V red to black 240V, Verify your pump 120V or 240V. Verify all fuses are good by testing for continuity. Remove one side from holder when testing.  What topside do you have? Dip switch A3 will determine what topside will work. Also A7 down will give you more options with Standard, Economy and sleep modes.

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I'll go verify what pump I have and post a pic of the topside.  I think the pump is 120v but not sure. 

Inside the spa pack. Breaker flipped on.  I get 0 v white to black.  Red and Black 240 v. Red to white 240 v. When i check all to ground; red, white and black all have 120 v.  

I've checked all the fuses when completely removed and they all have continuity. I've also removed the plug for the topside to see if the pump eventually kicks on and still nothing.  

A7 is up in standard mode.

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You have a bad/loose wire connection there somewhere. I would disconnect them from the pack and test them as I said above... W to blk 120V, W to red 120V, red to blk 240. If you get anything different redo the wiring in the GFCI. If it is good then re attach to the pack and test again. Last time I came across this the electrician had it wired into the GFCI and one lug was cross threaded and wire was loose. Lug felt tight but wasn't.

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I removed the wires from the spa pack.  The voltage coming from the GFCI is correct. White to black, white to red both 120 v.  Red and Black 240.  White to ground 0.  Red to ground 120 and Black to ground 120.

I re attached and again have the weird voltage. As if there is a relay open that is feeding the white wire 120 v.  I checked if there is continuity between Black and White and it beeps and shows 40 ohms. 

I'm having a hard time trying to find the voltage for the pump.  It is a plug and play model that can be 120 or 240. I'll keep looking.

Here is a pic of the topside. Thanks for the help.  

image.png.0dcfdf31df67e122097f982a9cb153a5.png 

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I suspect you have lost the neutral, in your breaker or wiring. Remove wires from breaker and test voltage at the terminals. You should read 120v to white on both red and black. If you do not, check voltage into the disconnect box and verify you have 120v there.

On 9/21/2021 at 7:40 PM, RobNew said:

When the the 3 wires are disconnect at the spa pack.  The voltage is correct and the white wire has 0. 

The white having 0 does not make the voltages correct, you need 120v to red and black. 

 

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FIXED!  So after going through what you had said at the GFCI and voltage being correct. I checked continuity between the ground and white.  There was none.  I went back to the panel in the garage and the white had come loose. I thought it was secure but it was completely loose.  

Thanks so much for the help!  Hopefully this helps someone else with similar symptoms.  

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  • 1 year later...
On 9/23/2021 at 10:19 AM, RobNew said:

I removed the wires from the spa pack.  The voltage coming from the GFCI is correct. White to black, white to red both 120 v.  Red and Black 240.  White to ground 0.  Red to ground 120 and Black to ground 120.

I re attached and again have the weird voltage. As if there is a relay open that is feeding the white wire 120 v.  I checked if there is continuity between Black and White and it beeps and shows 40 ohms. 

Thanks for the help.  

image.png.0dcfdf31df67e122097f982a9cb153a5.png 

I am having the exact same problem, but I'm not understanding how the loose neutral fixed it for RobNew.  I have the circuit board out of the spa pack, sitting on my dining room table, and I get 36ohms between black and neutral.  Everywhere on the board I get the same.  Suspicious of relay K3, as I have continuity between N.O. and both black and neutral, but no signs of burning or melting.

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  • 3 months later...

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