EKIM Posted September 5, 2021 Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 THE RED LIGHT IS FLASHING ON A 2003 HOT SPRINGS GRANDEE 1 FLUSHED OUT ALL LINES AND HAVE GOOD FLOW PUMPS ALL WORKING UNTIL IT GOES TO RED LIGHT FLASHING. 2 CIRCULATION PUMP IS WORKING AND NO AIR LOCKS 3 RUN WITHOUT FILTERS TO CHECK THEM WITH SAME RESULTS ,THEY ARE CLEAN AND PUT BACK IN 4 HEATER WORKS GOOD FOR ABOUT 30 MIN. THEN GOES BACK TO RED LIGHT FLASHING AND NOTHING WORKS EXCEPT CIRCULATION PUMP 5 AFTER RED LIGHT FLASHES I HAVE TO SHUT OFF BREAKERS AND WAIT FOR A HOUR OR MORE TO RESET THE BREAKERS OR THE TUB WILL STILL FLASHES RED SO IT IS NOT WATER FLOW . WHAT NEXT? . WEAK PARTS ON BOARD? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 6, 2021 Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 Test thermistors with an ohm meter, both before turning on and right after red light starts blinking. Post results. There are videos on how to test them, just google "hot springs thermistor test". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKIM Posted September 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 THANKS FOR YOUR QUICK RESPONSE 1 I SET OHMMETER TO 20k 2 GOT A 8.20 READING ON THE INLET LEAD WITHOUT BEING PLUGGED ONTO THE BOARD 3 GOT A 8.28 READING ON THE OUTLET LEAD WITHOUT BEING PLUGGED INTO THE BOARD STEP 2 1 WITH BREAKERS ON AND BOTH LEADS PLUGGED INTO THE BOARD AND RED LIGHT FLASHING . 2 OHM METER SET AT 20V 3 2.41V AT INLET, PLUGGED INTO THE BOARD 4 2.40V AT OUTLET, PLUGGED ONTO THE BOARD NOTE I HAVE NO CLUE AS TO HOW TO TEST THE THERMISTORS. I COULDN'T FIND ANYTHING WITH A VIDEO ON YOUTUBE , JUST ON TESTING THERMISTORS , MAYBE SOMEBODY SHOULD DO IT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 What "leads" are you talking about? 31 minutes ago, EKIM said: SOMEBODY SHOULD DO IT. Go for it. You have one sitting there. Post pics of the circuit board and I will walk you through it. You will find two gray cables that come from the thermistors screwed into the heater that plug in to the board, labeled "reg therm" and "lim therm" if I remember correctly. Unplug them from the board and test resistance (ohms) across the two tiny wires in each plug. Do this when it has been sitting idle for a few hours, and again after it has started flashing red. Make sure you turn off power first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKIM Posted September 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 YES THAT IS THE LEADS I'M TALKING ABOUT . AND I TESTED IT THAT WAY ,THE WAY YOU JUST SAID . THE READINGS ARE WHAT I POSTED IN MY LAST POST WHAT ARE THEY SUPPOSED TO READ OR BE? I CAN'T READ THE SCHEMATIC PRINT IS TOOOO SMALL EVEN WITH A MAGNIFYING GLASS. I'M 82 , HAVE REALLY POOR EYESIGHT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKIM Posted September 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 It looks like the board is damaged. Remove it and check the back for damage. Post pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranbiz Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 Discoloration (charring) around one of the pump connections and around several relays (corrosion or flux flow). I believe RDspaguy is on to something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKIM Posted September 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 BOTH BOARDS ARE REMARKABLE CLEAN ON THE BACK SIDE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 On 9/8/2021 at 10:10 AM, RDspaguy said: Unplug them from the board and test resistance (ohms) across the two tiny wires in each plug. Do this when it has been sitting idle for a few hours, and again after it has started flashing red. Make sure you turn off power first. Both tests should be in ohms, not volts. We are checking for an isolated overheat in the heater that would indicate a flow issue. There is no "should be", we are comparing one set to another. 8.2k ohms is about 83*F. In all likelyhood it is the circulation pump or sensors. 80 ohms difference on the first ohm reading is not alarming, but there could be fluctuation in the thermistor. And circ pumps are hard to diagnose visually if you haven't seen a bunch of hot springs to know how it should look in the tub with it running. Lots of people think they have good flow when they do not. So eliminate the thermistors as the problem and get a circ pump. I am surprised the board is undamaged on the back. It may be an issue or not, but it sure looks bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKIM Posted September 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 OK IT SET FOR A COUPLE DAYS AND I TESTED IT ON THE LEADS FROM THE THERMISTORS UNPLUGGED FROM BOARD. THE OUTLET THERMISTOR LEAD MEASURED 10.58 THE INLET THERMISTOR LEAD MEASURED 10.44 PLUGGED IN THERMISTORS AND TURNED ON THE BREAKERS AND IT HEATED FOR ABOUT 1 HR. THEN WENT INTO THE FLASHING RED LIGHT MODE. IMMEDIATELY SHUT BREAKERS OFF AND UNPLUGGED THE LEADS FROM THE BOARD THE OUTLET THERMISTOR LEAD MEASURED 8.34 THE INLET THERMISTOR LEAD MEASURED 87.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKIM Posted September 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 I HAVE BEEN THINKING AND WHAT RDSPAGUY SAID ABOUT THE CIRCULATION PUMP AND I MAY HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM . A FEW MONTHS AGO WHEN CLEANING OUT THE LINES BECAUSE THE FLOOR RETURN WAS PARTIALLY PLUGGED I BROKE THE SMALL TIP THAT GOES FROM THE ELL ABOVE THE CIRCULATION PUMP UP TO THE FILTER AREA.(EVERYTHING IS BRITTLE.) I COULDN'T FIND A REPLACEMENT ELL AND WHEN I DID I HAD TO ADAPT IT BECAUSE IT WOULDN'T FIT THE TUBING. SINCE I HAD TO USE FARRELL'S TO ADAPT I AM WONDERING IF THE INSIDE OF THE FARRELL'S ARE TO SMALL AND RESTRICTING THE FLOW OF WATER ,JUST WONDERING . DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND THE RIGHT ELL WITH THE RIGHT TIP ON IT THAT FITS MY PLASTIC TUBING THE OTHER THING IS IT IS A HOT SPRINGS 2002 NOT 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 If it blocks the pipe it is a problem. However, I would expect a flow restriction to show an error sooner than 1 hour. I suspect a bad circulation pump. A circ pump should be hot, but not painfully so. How does yours feel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKIM Posted September 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2021 SORRY I DIDN'T GET BACK FOR A COUPLE DAYS.. IT'S WOOD CUTTING TIME HERE IN MICHIGAN . I DRILLED OUT THE FARREL THEN LET IT RUN WITH BREAKERS ON AND FLASHING RED LIGHT CAME ON. THE CIRCULATION PUMP RUNS ALL THE TIME ANYWAY . PUMP DOESN'T GET HOT ,JUST WARM AND SO I DRAINED THE WATER DOWN SO I COULD SEE WHAT THE PUMP WAS DOING . IT HAD GOOD PRESSURE AND SQUIRTS ALL THE WAY ACROSS THE FILTER COMPARTMENT SO I KNOW THERE IS NO RESTRICTIONS IN FLOW COULD SOMETHING BE IN THE NO FAULT HEATER ? PROBABLY CLEAN IT LIKE THE ON DEMAND WATER HEATERS IN YOUR HOUSE WITH APPLE CIDER VINEGAR . LOOKS LIKE I CAN TAKE THE END OFF THE HEATER AND JUST FILL THE TUBES AND LET IT SET OVERNIGHT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 16, 2021 Report Share Posted September 16, 2021 On the circuit board are 3 LED lights labeled LIM OK,heater on,and control unplugged. Which of these is on when the red light start flashing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKIM Posted September 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2021 I THE TURNED BREAKERS ON AND THIS TIME IT DIDN'T TAKE LONG FOR THE RED LIGHT TO FLASH. THE LITTLE LED GREEN LIGHT STAYED ON . THE BOARD , ITS TOOOO SMALL FOR ME BUT MY WIFE THINKS IT SAYS D 10 AND RIGHT TO THE RIGHT OF IT IT SAYS R 4. THE RED LED TO THE LEFT OF IT WAS ON MOMENTARILY BUT WENT OUT.IT IS LABELED D 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 16, 2021 Report Share Posted September 16, 2021 At this point, I'd have long since plugged in some sensors to test it out, but a bad sensor error usually happens immediately, not after minutes or hours. I would be inclined to say circ pump but your circuit board looks damaged around the circ pump relays, and could play a part. Test voltage to circ pump with pump connected, and again when it starts flashing. If voltage is good and steady, get a pump. In any case I would redo the circ pump elbow barb doohickey. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKIM Posted September 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 I THINK I'M AT A BAD POINT . THE TUB ,WHEN I FIRST TURN THE BREAKERS ON IS NOW FLASHING RED , NOT HEATING FOR A TIME AND WHEN I TEST VOLTAGE TO THE CIRCULATING PUMP IT FLUCTUATES AND IS NOT STEADY . IF THAT IS THE BOARD I CANT AFFORD TO REPLACE IT. SO I WILL DRAIN THE TUB . THANKS FOR ALL YOUR SUGGESTIONS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 22, 2021 Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 That's the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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