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Sunrice Eclypse sometimes doesn't heat.


Williamsunrice

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Hello,

Our Sunrice Eclypse from 2005 has problems with heating, sometimes it works fine for a few days, but then suddenly it no longer heats while it does indicate that it is heating up on the display. When I open the control box then I do not measure current at the connection points of the element, but if I then start measuring on the printed circuit board and I push something against it, I suddenly get current again at the points and also on the element yourself. Sometimes it works fine for a few days or a week and then the problem reappears.

Does anyone here know what could be the problem?

I use Translator .EU

IMG_20210901_132635490_HDR.jpg

IMG_20210901_132755938_HDR.jpg

IMG_20210901_132832271_HDR.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 9/2/2021 at 11:53 AM, Williamsunrice said:

Hello,

Our Sunrice Eclypse from 2005 has problems with heating, sometimes it works fine for a few days, but then suddenly it no longer heats while it does indicate that it is heating up on the display. When I open the control box then I do not measure current at the connection points of the element, but if I then start measuring on the printed circuit board and I push something against it, I suddenly get current again at the points and also on the element yourself. Sometimes it works fine for a few days or a week and then the problem reappears.

Does anyone here know what could be the problem?

I use Translator .EU

IMG_20210901_132635490_HDR.jpg

IMG_20210901_132755938_HDR.jpg

IMG_20210901_132832271_HDR.jpg

 

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Hello,

It is a pity that I have not yet received a response here and I may not have found a solution myself. The suppliers in the Netherlands of spas that I called say that you just have to replace the circuit board and that it is solved, but that is the most expensive solution and since the spa is already 16 years old I think it is no longer worth it is. Does anyone here know of another possible solution to this problem? Thank you in advance for your cooperation.

Regards, William

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That is proprietary info, and they will not release it. I've tried. All you can get is instruction on what wire to connect where, not circuit board schematics. They are in the business of selling electronics, and will not release their intellectual property to the public. Buy a board, or get relays replaced if you like. And get a spa technician or electronics repair guy, not an electrician. The fact that your electrician is under the impression that it's possible to get what he asked for implies that he has no experience working on electronics in spas. The manufacturer never intended for their boards to be repaired, and anyone who has gone through the trouble of reverse-engineering their stuff is not going to give it away either.

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19 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

We have moved on a bit but the problem is not solved. The relay has been replaced by a new one but it does not work.After measuring it carefully, we found that the control voltage to the relay was 16.5 volts. In our opinion it should be 24 volts but we are not sure. We also checked the transformer and it gives an output of 12 and 24 volts as it should. Where can the problem now be???? My electronics repair guy is someone who is already retired but has always worked in electronics but does not have all the measuring equipment to properly measure everything. Who can help us further?

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On the bottom left of the inside cover schematic it says Low level programming set to CU1 for 1 x 32 amp. Also there is normally a list of the jumper settings but I don't see one on the inside cover so you may want to contact Gecko Europe. The jumper settings will program the spa. They are usually very helpful here in Canada. There is a phone number for them on the inside cover top right

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he jumper setting in the lower left hand corner was already made when the spa was installed 15 years ago. The connection can also be seen on the last picture of the total board overview where you can see that on the left hand side where the 22o volt terminal is located a connection has been made by a brown wire between the top two terminals.
But we do not really know what you mean.
I thought it was clear in my previous quote that there was a significant voltage difference in the control voltage to the relay, 16.5 volts which in our opinion should be 24 volts and that perhaps causes the problem.
Now the only trick is to find the cause of that voltage difference......... Who knows a solution here....

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

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