Smith87 Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Have a used leisure bay spa g2 balboa pack with a dry element. Finally got it working properly. Has been for about 3 months. Now my heater is tripping the breaker. Unhooked heater it no longer trips. Checked the resistance and it is 15.5 ohms on element. Unhooked heater lines from the board, ohms are fluctuating all over the place. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Penguin Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Did you measure ohms on each side of the element to ground/metal heater tube? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 I checked the continuity I didn’t happen to look at the reading at the time. I am wanting to think 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 My mistake I meant infinity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Penguin Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Yes, should be infinity. Any reading from either side to ground would cause the GFCI to trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 It was indeed infinity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 So, ohms are good on the heater, but fluctuate on the heater wires? Has to be a bad wire or connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 No, on the board itself with wires disconnected the ohms fluctuate. S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 So the heater connection on the board has an ohm reading? You are testing this with power off, right? You should not have any continuity on those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Sorry fluctuating voltage powered on with heater wires disconnected Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Probably a bad relay. Pull the board and check the back for burns or discoloration. Post pics of the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 5 hours ago, RDspaguy said: Probably a bad relay. Pull the board and check the back for burns or discoloration. Post pics of the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 16, 2021 Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 And voltage into the spa is steady? Are any relays making noise? The little black box beside the yellow relay coils covers the contacts. Are any of the heater contacts worn or not closing? Use your finger to check the movement of the hinged arm (with board out, use a screwdriver if board is installed as that arm is hot when power is on). The relays are labelled high limit and heater. If voltage into the spa is steady and no relays are noisy I would replace all 3 relays. Any electronics pro can solder in new ones. If it comes to buying a board, I would recommend a new control system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 Yes, voltage is steady. No noise. little black box is for ozone generator. if equipped. Relays seem to be ok As well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 16, 2021 Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 3 hours ago, Smith87 said: black box is for ozone generator. Look closely at each relay and you will see a small black cube touching the corner of the yellow relay coil. Some have a silver tab sticking up from them. This covers the contact points of the relay. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 Got ya thanks 9 hours ago, RDspaguy said: Look closely at each relay and you will see a small black cube touching the corner of the yellow relay coil. Some have a silver tab sticking up from them. This covers the contact points of the relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2021 Well got board back in and now it’s flashing oh or throwing breaker 🤯 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2021 (edited) Also on my terminals 1-6 all are reading around 125v except for number 1 it’s reading 30-40 which is where my other heater wires is. With the heater wires unhooked k3 high limit relay is engaged Edited July 17, 2021 by Smith87 Added quote Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2021 On 7/16/2021 at 1:19 AM, RDspaguy said: Look closely at each relay and you will see a small black cube touching the corner of the yellow relay coil. Some have a silver tab sticking up from them. This covers the contact points of the relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 17, 2021 Report Share Posted July 17, 2021 The high limit relays should both close if power is on, and open if the spa reads an overheat or power is turned off. Only the heater relay switches on and off for normal operation. That means one leg of the heater is always on unless there is an OH. 2 hours ago, Smith87 said: all are reading around 125v except for number 1 it’s reading 30-40 Tested to ground (green or bare) or neutral (white)? That is a huge voltage drop, but what it means depends on wether the heater was connected, and on or off. The heater circuit is just in and out through the 3 relays. Disconnect the heater and turn on power, then initiate a heat call and test across the heater connections on the board. If it says it's heating but has no voltage or low voltage it is a bad relay. Then end the heat cycle (turn it down or unplug pressure switch) and test again. If it has ANY voltage across the heater connections it is also a bad relay. With pump running and heater disconnected, turn off and unplug the sensor harness and test each sensor (through the tiny slots on the side) for resistance and post results. The resistance will be in the ballpark of 20k ohms, so set your tester accordingly. At this point I have little doubt that you have a bad relay or 6, but the OH is likely a different issue, and the tripping breaker could be as well. Post a pic of the board all wired up, the wiring diagram, equipment area, and breaker (close up so we can read the front label). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 On 7/17/2021 at 5:20 PM, RDspaguy said: The high limit relays should both close if power is on, and open if the spa reads an overheat or power is turned off. Only the heater relay switches on and off for normal operation. That means one leg of the heater is always on unless there is an OH. Tested to ground (green or bare) or neutral (white)? That is a huge voltage drop, but what it means depends on wether the heater was connected, and on or off. The heater circuit is just in and out through the 3 relays. Disconnect the heater and turn on power, then initiate a heat call and test across the heater connections on the board. If it says it's heating but has no voltage or low voltage it is a bad relay. Then end the heat cycle (turn it down or unplug pressure switch) and test again. If it has ANY voltage across the heater connections it is also a bad relay. With pump running and heater disconnected, turn off and unplug the sensor harness and test each sensor (through the tiny slots on the side) for resistance and post results. The resistance will be in the ballpark of 20k ohms, so set your tester accordingly. At this point I have little doubt that you have a bad relay or 6, but the OH is likely a different issue, and the tripping breaker could be as well. Post a pic of the board all wired up, the wiring diagram, equipment area, and breaker (close up so we can read the front label). Both green ground and neutral. Showing 240 volts on heater.with the heat turned off I’m reading 32-34 on terminal 1 and 3. Unplugged the sensor harness everything shuts off with code sn1. And the picture isn’t clear bc I have my labels on my wires still. Also for the wiring diagram front cover was gone off unit when I got it. That’s also the clearest picture I can get of breaker with my iPhone 5 lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 19, 2021 Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 Remove the jumper wire on the relay tabs and re-test. 1 hour ago, Smith87 said: 240 volts on heater.with the heat turned off I’m reading 32-34 on terminal 1 and 3. That makes no sense. If you are dropping that much voltage you should have a huge hole burned through your circuit board. Maybe it's related to that jumper. I have a couple of those old 6-finger boards (yes, that's a technical term 😉) floating aroung in the garage. I will dig one out tomorrow and check it for that jumper, but I am certain that one is not original if it's even supposed to be there. I am concerned you are bypassing the relays with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 I’m not sure it was on it when I got it. It just sucks because if I buy relays and it doesn’t work, I buy heater with no change then i buy board. If it goes that way I’d been better to buy whole unit and heater lol. They’re not hot tubs their land boats😂 2 hours ago, RDspaguy said: Remove the jumper wire on the relay tabs and re-test. That makes no sense. If you are dropping that much voltage you should have a huge hole burned through your circuit board. Maybe it's related to that jumper. I have a couple of those old 6-finger boards (yes, that's a technical term 😉) floating aroung in the garage. I will dig one out tomorrow and check it for that jumper, but I am certain that one is not original if it's even supposed to be there. I am concerned you are bypassing the relays with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 19, 2021 Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 The heater is easy to test. The sensors are a pain because the connector gets in the way of an ohm reading, but still fairly easy to test. That circuit board is probably nla (no longer available) and, if it comes to that, you will likely have no choice but to replace the whole pack. https://www.spadepot.com/Balboa-VS-Spa-Control-Kit-P3185 It's an easy swap, and much better technology than that old one you have. At that price, a new pack is a very reasonable option. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smith87 Posted July 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 Shouldn’t I have 240 between the heater and hi limit when running a heat call 19 hours ago, RDspaguy said: The heater is easy to test. The sensors are a pain because the connector gets in the way of an ohm reading, but still fairly easy to test. That circuit board is probably nla (no longer available) and, if it comes to that, you will likely have no choice but to replace the whole pack. https://www.spadepot.com/Balboa-VS-Spa-Control-Kit-P3185 It's an easy swap, and much better technology than that old one you have. At that price, a new pack is a very reasonable option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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