AlaskaTubber Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 Brand: Hot Spot Model: Dash Built: 2010 Observation 1: Opened cover, not running, water lukewarm, tub full, panel reads "FLO". Response: Pushed button once (hi jets), makes humming sound. Pushed again, lo jets come on (as they should). Turned off jets, removed filter. Pushed buttons again, same result. Turned off power at breaker, reset, shows temp (95 degrees), push buttons, same response. If left on first push (hi setting) will eventually click, stop humming, and FLO code reappears. Turned off power at breaker, cracked open various fittings, determined water is flow through system. Refilled tub with water, turned breaker back on, nothing changed. Let run on lo setting, water never heated up (still 58 degrees), about 30 minutes later blows breaker. Reset breaker just to check progress, still runs on low only, 58 degree water. It has sat with the power turned off at the breaker for a few days now. What to do next??? If there were a tech or dealerhip available in my area, I would totally call one - but there isn't. I have read some posts that talk about getting a multimeter and checking all of these various circuits, which is within my skill set, but I wouldn't know how to fix that type of problem even if i found it. Sidenote: I have lived in this house two years. About a month after moving in the circulation pump went out. I ordered a new one and replaced that on my own. The previous owner left a new heater unit ("S-Class" blue plastic box about 12"x12"x4" with cylinder underneath and mounting feet brackets - looks exactly like what is already hooked up there). I am not comfortable hooking this up (there are too many wires that go too many different places), but there is a semi-local sometimes electrician I could get to do that piece. Thoughts? Much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 Post photos of the current spa pack and also of the Gecko Sclass pack and their schematic drawings on the inside covers. Also post photos of the topside control. This year Hotspot can be difficult to repair. The topside is no longer made and to replace a topside you have to replace the pack as well. If the current pack is the same as the Sclass they left it sounds like they may have made this switch already. When I get these Hotspots I usually swap it out with an Sclass pack so that's good news if you already have one. Diagnosing the original Hot spot pack and a Gecko Sclass pack will be a little different so we need to see what you have. Do you see any error codes on the topside? 3 little dots flashing before it goes to FLO? Leave filters out until issue is fixed. Remove them from the equation. Just make sure nothing can go down in there. Lets see what you have in there now and we can move forward from there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskaTubber Posted July 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 It just reads FLO solid (not flashing) and no dots. Here are the photos. Thank you. IMG_0735.HEIC IMG_0736.HEIC IMG_0737.HEIC IMG_0738.HEIC IMG_0739.HEIC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 Photos not available Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskaTubber Posted July 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskaTubber Posted July 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 ...and one more thing... I called the store it was purchased from. They suggested cleaning the Ozone Injector. I couldn't quite understand their instructions (included disconnecting the tubing and putting it in vinegar) but what they described does not match how my system looks. Is this even worth a try? If so, I can YouTube it. (They were very cautious about potential build up of some type of acid in the tubing, and to use gloves/goggles). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 Ok so a Gecko Sclass that's a good thing. To recap you have no high speed...just humms and clicks off. It will run in low but not heat and does not throw any error codes. Next you will need to post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover of the spa pack. Need to see a few photos of the circuit board so we can see if there is any damage to the relays or the board itself. Do you have and can you work a multi meter? FYI swapping out the pack might not be as bad as you think if it is a straight swap...but were not there yet IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 34 minutes ago, AlaskaTubber said: They were very cautious about potential build up of some type of acid in the tubing, and to use gloves/goggles). That would be nitric acid, I believe, and it is some sticky, nasty stuff. It is a byproduct of ozone generation and if your ozone generator is not on the right injector (mazzei) it can build up in the injector, tube, and check valve and might even start to clog the water flow through the injection tube. This will not cause a flow error on your spa, unless it were to build up in your filter perhaps. It is sticky, yellow, and will curl your nose-hair. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskaTubber Posted July 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 “... no high speed...just humms and clicks off. It will run in low but not heat and does not throw any error codes.” - CORRECT If left on low, it will eventually kick to high (I assume to try and heat), then hum, then click, and then show solid FLO code again. I have a multi-meter. Here are the photos of the currently installed unit: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskaTubber Posted July 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Here is a photo of the unit the previous owner left behind. If this gets any more technical than replacing a fuse or plugging in a wire I would hire an electrician to connect it (if that is a potential fix), as there are just too mamy wires running around in there for me to feel comfortable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 @AlaskaTubber Ok now explain how you have it wired? I see it hooked up for 120V but you have wiring for 240V coming from the house. Will the spa be 120V or 240V? The white and red jumper wires don't look like they are all the way in...please verify Next follow the white wire coming from the pump...where does it go P7 or P18... P7 is for 120V P 18 is for 240V Please verify that Jumper 1 is covering the 2 pins to the right for low current mode if you are staying 120V... see schematic top right. Let us know results 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskaTubber Posted July 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 I am 90% sure it is 120 - the breaker in the panel is 120. White and red jumpers are all the way in. (According to schematic this is the 120 set up, correct?) The thick red wire has a wirenut on the end (terminated). White wire from PUMP is going to P18. (May be the culprit, but has been rigged this way prior to me moving in.) Jumper 1 is/was only covering 1 pin. (See photo to verify, I removed black wire to inspect. Only see one “crimp” on wire. Only one screw in jumper.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted July 16, 2021 Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 Odd that you have the wiring for 240V. Is the breaker a GFCI? If it is staying 120V white wire from pump needs to be on P7 Jumper 1 needs to cover the 2 pins to the right and the first pin or the pin on the left is open. It would be best to have the spa run 240V. It will work better and run more efficient costing less $$$ Post photo of the GFCI breaker you have it hooked up to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskaTubber Posted July 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 I am very appreciative of the advice and guidance, but I think I have reached my limit on what I feel I can adjust on my own. I will probably ask my semi-local semi-electrician if he can run some diagnostics (and maybe confirm the set up as 120 v 240). It may also be that at 10 years this thing has simply had its run. I did learn a lot in the last few days and have a much better understanding of the ins and outs of the system. Any last thing I should check? Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 On 7/15/2021 at 7:35 PM, AlaskaTubber said: White wire from PUMP is going to P18. (May be the culprit, but has been rigged this way prior to me moving in.) Jumper 1 is/was only covering 1 pin. (See photo to verify, I removed black wire to inspect. Only see one “crimp” on wire. Only one screw in jumper.) Did you make the changes as directed? What was result? FYI the jumpers I am talking about are located bottom right of the circuit board and the directions are located top right of the schematic on the inside cover 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 On 7/15/2021 at 9:21 PM, CanadianSpaTech said: If it is staying 120V white wire from pump needs to be on P7 Jumper 1 needs to cover the 2 pins to the right and the first pin or the pin on the left is open. It would be best to have the spa run 240V. It will work better and run more efficient costing less $$$ Post photo of the GFCI breaker you have it hooked up to 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskaTubber Posted August 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 Changes made. All set up fro 120V: White wire is now on P7, jumper 1 covering the two pins to the right. This did not affect anything. BUT... I was cycling through the buttons and totally accidentally pushed them too fast. If it is on Lo and I push it TWICE it jumps to Hi and Hi actually works! It will run on Hi for 1-2 hours, then click off (shows temp) until it tries to run again at which point it hums, clicks off, and shows the FLO error. (Then I flip the breaker and start over.) *When it is running on high for those 1-2 hours it actually heats the water about 7-8 degrees. (As of this moment tub temp is 101.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskaTubber Posted August 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 "Great Success" Called electrician. He listened to it for about 3 seconds (without even looking at the guts) and said, "You have a capacitor somewhere that is dead." Sho-nuff, located a capacitor on top of the motor. He pried off the cap and put it on a volt-meter. Deader than a door nail. Replaced capacitor and zoom-zoom-zoom. Still very appreciative of all the advice. Was definitely a learning experience and though it took some time I understand the workings better. Thanks again for all of the guidance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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