Thermospa Concord with a few issues (need help)

[DividedSky]

I purchased a used Thermospa Concord hot tub recently. Not sure the year though because the sticker was taken off. The person indicated there were no issues with it but that is not the case and he is not responding to me. After I got the electrical hooked up, the topside control wasn’t working so I replaced it with a balboa ML700. That now works and heats up and the circulation pump runs. The blower initially came on a few times while I was testing everything but now it will not turn on at all. It also has 2 other pumps that turn on for about 10-20 seconds but then shut off. The light in the hot tub does not work either. The circuit board has some corrosion on it (see attached pictures) and I am wondering it that could be the issue. I have a multimeter but not sure how to test the board so I would appreciate any help this knowledgeable group can provide. 
 

thank you!!

[cranbiz]

Unfortunately, you have just found out why you can't ever trust a seller of a used hot tub. Always see it filled and working.

With your multimeter and the power disconnected, test all the fuses, both cartridge and glass. If good, now power it back on and start testing the power to the pumps. You should see 220V across the pumps and the blower, 120V on the ozonator and 12V on the spa light according to the wiring diagram but it looks like only pump 1 is 220V while pump 2 and the blower looks wired for 120V. You can check these at the white molex connectors.

Can you post up a better picture of your dip switches?

You can also ohm out the sensors to make sure those are working. A failed sensor can tell the board things that will keep it from operating.

The corrosion isn't horrible. Is there any evidence of charred or black spots on the board? You might have to remove the board to check the back.

[Personal Poster]

My suggestion is go to an online seller of spa parts and replace the pac complete with heater if your financial circumstances perm

It has been my limited experience that once a board has corrosion it's going to be nothing but problems. If you're handy at this sort of thing, replacing the whole pac should be nothing but a bolt-on and plug/unplug experience. (maybe requiring some well done splices)

If you replace the whole pac, heater, and controls then all you have left is pumps, plumbing and shell that can leak or need to be replaced.

The rates that pros have to charge today to stay in business are such that you would likely be ahead of the game instead of fixing one problem at a time.

Spas are one of the most horrible operating conditions you can have. Electronics, moisture, pumps, etc,

I would worry about that much corrosion inside the spa. Mine is twenty years old and I've never had that much corrosion and I've replaced the pacs rhree times. Did they need it every time? Dunno, but heaters go, controls go, I was happier getting out with a new pac than having multiple issues.

Edited to add: I am an overkill kind of guy that hates recurring issues.

Hope you find an excellent solution to your concerns.

 

[cranbiz]

Here is a complete balboa replacement that should be compatible and comes with a new heater and topside. Under $600 with 3 pump circuits and a new ozinator.

https://www.spadepot.com/Balboa-VS-Spa-Control-Kit-P3185

[RDspaguy]

The board looks pretty rough. The heater looks new. The wiring looks like there was a mouse nest in there at some point. 

With an apparently new heater and new topside, it might be worth just getting a board if it comes to that. While I like customers like @Personal Poster, I can't say that junking what you just bought is the best choice under the circumstances. 

4 hours ago, cranbiz said:

Unfortunately, you have just found out why you can't ever trust a seller of a used hot tub. Always see it filled and working.

With your multimeter and the power disconnected, test all the fuses, both cartridge and glass. If good, now power it back on and start testing the power to the pumps. You should see 220V across the pumps and the blower, 120V on the ozonator and 12V on the spa light according to the wiring diagram but it looks like only pump 1 is 220V while pump 2 and the blower looks wired for 120V. You can check these at the white molex connectors.

Can you post up a better picture of your dip switches?

You can also ohm out the sensors to make sure those are working. A failed sensor can tell the board things that will keep it from operating.

The corrosion isn't horrible. Is there any evidence of charred or black spots on the board? You might have to remove the board to check the back.

Do this before you start throwing parts at it. You could have issues completely unrelated to the board or pack. Bad or miswired pumps, blown fuses, etc. This is new to you, and I would say recently worked on, so it could be any number of things.

[DividedSky]

Thank you all for replaying. I had to drain the hot tub because it is leaking on the back side of 2 suctions lines in the foot well. I have a repair person coming out next week to take a look at it. I will keep everyone posted…..I didn’t realize I could have bought a whole new different spa pack. I probably would have done that if I hadn’t already bought a new topside control which can’t be returned. When I fill the hot tub again I will run the tests as @cranbizindicated. Hopefully I can get this thing working without spending a fortune. 

I included a picture of the dip switches as well. 

[CanadianSpaTech]

Before you buy new...

Go to: https://www.balboawatergroup.com/Technical-Data-Sheets select EL2000 Systems, Then Select EL2000 Mach 2, Then Select EL2000 Tech Sheet and download. Set dip switch settings (pages 5 and 6) to match your spas components and give it a try. 

As for corrosion I have seen worse but you could remove it and clean it if you think it will be an issue going forward. There are products available to clean it up. Personally I would just wipe down the dirty wires and maybe give the board a blast of compressed air.  

Let us know results.