Figi4 Posted June 8, 2021 Report Share Posted June 8, 2021 I know it's probably obvious but I can't seem to find it anywhere. When using the Taylor test kits, how do you test or read for LOW calcium? Google gives me nothing but what to do if I have low levels, but not how to see if I even do or not. Or maybe I'm just misunderstanding it. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figi4 Posted June 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 You need a test kit with a calcium hardness test. Follow the instructions in the kit. I am curious why you are worried about it. Is it an inground spa? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figi4 Posted June 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 I have a Taylor kit but lost the book. The quick guide only states what to do if its too high. I have taken over ownership of a pretty old Morgan spa, its above ground fiberglass. I've just filled it and trying to balance it proper to get as much life out of it as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 You don't really need to worry about calcium hardness. Taylor makes ALOT of kits, some test more or different things than others. Which kit do you have? The calcium test reagents are blue caps. I don't recall the numbers right now but will look in my kit tomorrow. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterbear Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 You raise CH by adding calcium chloride (calcium hardness increaser from the pool/spa supply store) . The ONLY reason you would need to raise it is if it's below about 120-150 ppm since water softer than that had a tendency to foam. If it's higher than that it's not a problem unless it's REALLY high (above about 300 to 400 ppm) and then it's just a matter of making sure the pH does not spike so you don't deposit scale (calcium carbonate) on the spa surface. You would also want to run a lower total alkalinityin this case too since that will do 2 things, make pH spikes less likely and also lower the amount of bicarbonate ions in the water so the formation of calcium carbonate is less likely. Last thing, The blue book that comes with the Taylor test kits is pretty useless except for the base and acid demand tables. You can get another book from Taylor https://taylortechnologies.com/en/product/accessories/booklet-pool-spa-water-chemistry-2014-ed-english--2004B?pageid=19 or you can get one from Amazon or other online retailers (but be sure to double check the prices. Some of them are ridiculous! I've even seen it as a PDF file for download. Just search for Taylor Technologies 2004B 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figi4 Posted June 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 7 hours ago, waterbear said: The ONLY reason you would need to raise it is if it's below about 120-150 ppm since water softer than that had a tendency to foam. I just tested and everything looks good but the the CH is at 130ppm. It's not foaming, but we haven't been getting in yet either. Should I bump it up to about 200ppm, or wait and see? Thanks y'all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterbear Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 8 hours ago, waterbear said: The ONLY reason you would need to raise it is if it's below about 120-150 ppm 130 ppm is perfect! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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