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Spa works on low speed. Suts off on high with 3 blinking lights


KenV

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I just picked up an @home (Dimension One) Dream spa. It was free so I think I got a good deal. The water heats up and the pump runs on low to filter and when turned on. When I turn the jets on high sometimes it will run just fine and other times when I turn the jets on high the pump shuts off and I get 3 blinking dots on the control panel. The control panel continues to show the correct temperature. After a few minutes I hear a relay click and the pump can be turned back on low and it will run. Otherwise everything seems to be working well. Does anyone have any ideas?

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Ok. the filter has been cleaned and breaker reset. I was just in it and it was heating so the pump was running on low. When I switched to high it worked fine. That is until it stopped heating then it had the same issue. It also works on high during a filter cycle without issue. I will get a schematic picture tomorrow. It is a Gecko S-Class controller

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11 hours ago, KenV said:

Ok. the filter has been cleaned

 

12 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Start by removing the filters

Big difference

3 flashing dots usually indicate a flow error or a faulty pressure switch. Dirty Filters are the main cause. Anytime you get an error code always remove the filters first and run without them and remove them from the equation completely. If you have proper water level and filters are out and you still have issue then we move on to the pressure switch next. 

https://issuu.com/geckomkt/docs/s_class_service_manual_en/1?e=14165552/33197567

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I noticed that this morning. I got in and removed the filter. I switched to high and it was working fine. Then I decreased the temp a couple degrees and it shut off again. I don't know if this makes a difference, but the skin of the top control pad is in bad shape. It was completely coming off and I put a bead of silicone down to hold it in place. It is still cracked and a couple sections of the LED are out. It has a new heater and pressure switch.

Thank you so much for your help.

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3 hours ago, KenV said:

I think I am on the right track. The more I adjust the pressure switch, the longer the jets work on high. A little more adjusting and I hope it will be just right.

That makes no sense, but you can adjust your pressure switch right into a house fire if you don't know what you are doing. And, all due respect, you don't sound like you know what you are doing.

 

On 5/28/2021 at 9:38 AM, KenV said:

About every 30 seconds something buzzes for about a second like it wants to start then quits

I'd figure out what.

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30 minutes ago, RDspaguy said:

That makes no sense, but you can adjust your pressure switch right into a house fire if you don't know what you are doing. And, all due respect, you don't sound like you know what you are doing.

 

I'd figure out what.

I followed the instructions in the repair manual linked above. 

Do you have any suggestions or just criticism, with all due respect of course. 

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He's just trying to save you from you. We don't know anybody's basic knowledge or skill level. Making changes to a safety feature can have bad results. I never adjust pressure switches. Always replace. They are calibrated from the factory to ensure they work and protect properly. Adjustment is a short term fix until you get a new one IMO. $30 and 15 mins. VS burning down your house (ok a little extreme but you get the picture) 

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It is a brand spanking new one and he should learn how to speak nicely and help people learn like you do. It's easy to be arrogant and try to show your superiority, but it's not at all helpful. I'm just trying to find a solution. So far you have been extremely helpful.

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4 hours ago, KenV said:

It is a brand spanking new one and he should learn how to speak nicely and help people learn like you do. It's easy to be arrogant and try to show your superiority, but it's not at all helpful. 

I'm new here, but not to online forums.  That was really minor. Some unsolicited advice - there are some very knowledgeable people here, I'd suggest letting it go, and getting your help. Or you can tell me to butt-out, and I'll ignore. :)

 

 

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I've let it go and moved on. My main concern is tracking down the problem. Yes I could call a professional and I may have to, but I like puzzles and trying to fix stuff on my own. I like to learn about things I don't know about and letting someone else do it all would take all the fun out of it. 

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15 hours ago, KenV said:

I followed the instructions in the repair manual linked above. 

Do you have any suggestions or just criticism, with all due respect of course. 

Oh, that wasn't criticism. That was a warning, for your own sake. I have seen spas catch on fire, well, seen the results anyway. And an improperly adjusted safety device is an excellent way to do it.

15 hours ago, RDspaguy said:
On 5/28/2021 at 9:38 AM, KenV said:

About every 30 seconds something buzzes for about a second like it wants to start then quits

I'd figure out what.

This was my suggestion. My last suggestion in this thread. 

13 hours ago, KenV said:

should learn how to speak nicely and help people

First off, I am a volunteer. I take my free time to help many people here every day. And you will know when I am not speaking nicely. Perhaps you should spend a few hours each day helping people for free while they act like you owe them something. It might give you a new perspective.

Best of luck.

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little hot. Melted the union and gasket on one end, and the high limit sensor. The metal part of the sensor stayed on the heater, and the innards and wire fell out. The heater started leaking current to ground (or could have been water pouring out of the melted union) and tripped the GFCI outlet it was plugged into, probably saving more damage/fire,

Quoted from another current thread. Different circumstances perhaps, but a fine example of the results of tampering with or bypassing safety devices.

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6 hours ago, RDspaguy said:

little hot. Melted the union and gasket on one end, and the high limit sensor. The metal part of the sensor stayed on the heater, and the innards and wire fell out. The heater started leaking current to ground (or could have been water pouring out of the melted union) and tripped the GFCI outlet it was plugged into, probably saving more damage/fire,

Quoted from another current thread. Different circumstances perhaps, but a fine example of the results of tampering with or bypassing safety devices.

I read that as well and though the same thing applied here as well.

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Please know that I am very grateful for everyone here being so helpful. 

Regarding the pressure switch. If I have the tub running can I jump the terminals on it to simulate a signal? Then if it still happens I could take the switch out of the equation. I wouldn't leave it like that or turn off the jets and I'd certainly make sure the set point was low enough that the heater wouldn't come on. I was just wondering if this would be an option so I could move on to another component. 

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You could disconnect the heater from the board and then you are 100 % sure you won't overheat. Yes remove the 2 wires from the pressure switch and join them together. This will bypass the pressure switch. If you have a multi meter you can test the pressure switch to see if it open/close. I cannot ever remember a D-Tec pressure switch failing.

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I am off tomorrow so I will try to add a jumper on the pressure switch. My new filter is also coming tomorrow so I will pop that in too.  I was in the tub last night and ran the jets on high. They worked well for around 15 to 20 minutes then shut down and I had the 3 blinking dots laughing at me. From then on, the most I got was a minute or less before shut off. I have noticed this all along. It seems to work fine starting out, but once it shuts down it will not run more than 30 seconds or so. Once it sits overnight, the jets work again for an extended period the first time. Is there a possibility that the high speed relay could be bad. Would that cause the same symptoms if it works until it gets hot then starts shutting down?

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