RDspaguy Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 That is what you should get if the spa is heated up to temp so the heater is off. You should only get 240v if the heater is on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted June 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 @RDspaguy My mistake. Had the multimeter on wrong setting. It is reading 232 when heater is running. At the very beginning of the entire issue, it was reading 225. Somehow when I adjusted the sensors it went up to 232. Is it possible that 232 is too high? If so is there a way to drop it down a bit? Also, when the jets are turned on the first squirt of water that comes out is scalding hot, I never remember that happening before... thanks so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted June 11, 2021 Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 4 hours ago, Alber36 said: Somehow when I adjusted the sensors it went up to 232. No, it did not. I think I explained already that any voltage drop is unrelated to your sensors, and if you were dropping 7 volts on a relay you fried it in minutes. Voltages can, and do, vary for many reasons. All that matters is that the heater voltage is the same as the spa power voltage at any given time. You still managed to not answer my question. Does the heater turn off when it should? Use your tester and verify that there is no voltage to the heater when it has reached set temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted June 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 @RDspaguy When it reaches the set temperature the heater voltage still measures 230v and it still hears. It only stops heating when the system safety feature kicks in and the whole system turns off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted June 11, 2021 Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 Stuck relay. No other possible cause. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted June 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 @RDspaguy Seems strange that two different relays would fail back to back. Could there be some issue causing this? I don’t want to continue to fix the relays and have them fail... Would it make more sense to replace the entire board, although costly, to be safe? just want to make sure I don’t burn out another board / system again.... thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted June 11, 2021 Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 I'm inclined to say the repair was botched. But stranger things have happened. New does not always mean good. The heater cycling (turning on and off frequently) is the only thing I can think of. Is it doing that? You would hear the relay click-click every few seconds or minutes, depending on the cause. High amp draw on the heater could also do it, but that would mean a short which would trip your breaker. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted June 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 @RDspaguy perhaps the repair was botched. Electronics guy told me he put a hole in the relay and reattached it and he guaranteed it would work... I don’t hear it clicking very frequently. what do you suggest I do to resolve the issue completely, even if more than necessary. Replace the board, or safer replace the whole system? I don’t want to risk something being off and burning a relay again. thanks so much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted June 11, 2021 Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 https://www.spadepot.com/Balboa-VS-Spa-Control-Kit-P3185 Just fill in the info. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted June 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 @RDspaguy So best to replace the whole system and heater? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted June 14, 2021 Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 I would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted July 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2021 @RDspaguy so I ordered a new control system based on a link you sent a while back. Trying to replace the system now. Two questions for you: - the electrical wiring is different on the two control panels and I’m not sure how to connect the old electrical to the new board. I only have 1 white and 2 blacks. Could you help? I think the white stays on top but my old #2 actually is supposed to be red. Pics attached - also noticed that the old heater tube says 5.5kw and the new one says 4.0kw. Will this make any difference? Pics attached I think everything else should be self explanatory…. Thank you!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranbiz Posted July 1, 2021 Report Share Posted July 1, 2021 In your case, blacks to L1 and L2, white to common. Verify you have 110V from each black to the white and 240V black to black. You won't have a significant difference between a 4KW heater and a 5.5KW heater. The 4KW will heat just a bit slower. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted July 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2021 @cranbiz @RDspaguy Cool, thanks. I replaced everything and hooked up the electric. Getting 227V read on the heater. Everything seems to working fine except for Pump 2- there is no response when I hit the Jets2 button. See a pic attached of the current system setup. Any thoughts? Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 1, 2021 Report Share Posted July 1, 2021 Check dipswitch settings and jumper connections. Post a pic of the circuit board dipswitch bank and the chart/diagram on the inside of the box cover. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted July 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2021 @RDspaguy @cranbiz See dipswitch pic as well as the diagram. Will post the jumper connections when I can access it again later tonight. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 You will want setup 19. I assume it included an instruction manual or card? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted July 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 (edited) @RDspaguy There was no manual or card. Can I find setup 19 online somewhere? It does seem that I may need to flip dipswitch #3 ON to be in line with my old setup, but not sure if I should try… Also, I’m not sure if Pump 2 is one speed or two speed. With prior system, Pump 2 has always just functioned HIGH or OFF. I don’t know if that was a function of the pump or the setup. here was the link: https://pool-spa-supplies.com/balboa-control-balboa-water-group-retrofit-kit-bp7-tp600-g6406?utm_source=google_shopping Thanks! Edited July 2, 2021 by Alber36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 10 hours ago, Alber36 said: Pump 2 has always just functioned HIGH or OFF. Then use setup 20. https://balboawater.com/BP7 Click the tech info top right to download pdf. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted July 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 @RDspaguy Thanks. I don’t see a separate diagram for Setup 20. I think I have all setup properly except for Dipswitch #3 for the 2nd high speed pump. Can I do damage to board by changing this dipswitch being as everything else is running properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 Dipswitch 3 will let both pumps run in high while the heater is on, which will trip your 50 amp breaker. Leave the dipswitches alone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted July 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 (edited) @RDspaguy Got it. The Tech Sheet doesn't have a diagram for setup 20, only 21. I'm attaching here the jumpers like you asked yesterday. I labeled the pics, let me know if you see anything wrong here? -J88 to J6 -J1 to Expander Board 1 Thank you! Edited July 2, 2021 by Alber36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 Setup 21 is no pump2. You need 20 for single speed pump2. Setup is done at the control panel while in test mode (dipswitch 1 on). Instructions are in the link I provided. 8 hours ago, RDspaguy said: Then use setup 20. https://balboawater.com/BP7 Click the tech info top right to download pdf. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted July 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 (edited) @RDspaguy I spoke with the seller, who contacted the manufacturer and they said I needed to set dip switches 1,3 and 6 to ON while the breaker was off, then after turning breaker on, to let it run its startup course and then move 1&6 to OFF. In addition, I followed your previous message instructions while 1,3&6 were ON, and selected setting #20 on the control panel, then turned 1&6 to off and Pump 2 now works!! THANK YOU!! Edited July 3, 2021 by Alber36 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted July 3, 2021 Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 @RDspaguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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