Alber36 Posted May 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2021 @RDspaguy Sweet, amazing. Not sure I would be able to mimic the prior setup without a lot of thought but seems well worth the try. Anything else I can do to take better care of the system going forward or was that relay burning out just bad luck? Will update with progress... thanks so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted May 20, 2021 Report Share Posted May 20, 2021 Not bad luck, just what happens over time. You can't stop your tires from wearing out if you drive your car, nor can you stop contacts from arcing and wearing down if you use your heater. It is possible to mount 2 50 amp contactors that fire off of the two heater leads independently that will last much longer but you would have to mount a secondary box somewhere to put them in then wire it up. This would, interestingly enough, void any warranty on your new pack. And if you don't understand what I just said you should NOT try it yourself. 51 minutes ago, Alber36 said: Not sure I would be able to mimic the prior setup We can help you there, just ask when you are ready to put it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted May 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2021 @RDspaguy A NEW Electronics guy is saying he can fix the connection but he can’t guarantee that the issue will not happen again as he thinks the heating coil may be the issue. I think we already ruled that out from my prior multimeter tests right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranbiz Posted May 20, 2021 Report Share Posted May 20, 2021 He is right to a point. He is right the issue may happen again as it's the high current arc that erodes the contacts thru use. He is right that the heater coil caused it but it caused it simply thru making and breaking the electrical connection that powers the heating element. If he is saying a defective heater is the primary cause of yours burning out, he is wrong. The relay simply wore out as you proved the heater element is good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted May 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 Ok my new electronics guy said he fixed the relay and he said he guarantees 100% it works now. To be continued... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted May 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 @RDspaguy reconnected everything. Control panel lit up saying to purge pumps. But My jets won’t power on, not pump 1 or pump 2. I hear the clicking sound from system but no movement at all. Any idea what this could be? @CanadianSpaTech @cranbiz when reconnecting electric, I may have lost one or two copper threads... could that be it? There is power to the system so not sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted May 21, 2021 Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 Pics? Check fuses. Verify power connection is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted May 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 @RDspaguy Rewired power and now jets are running but see following codes below. Are these error codes? M100 _201 V 20 240V doesnt seem to be heating up unfortunately! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted May 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 @RDspaguy I take that back, just went up a degree with jets on low with top off which is a sign of improvement... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted May 21, 2021 Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 Did these show at start up then go away when the pump came on or you press a button? If so, they are just system codes, which is normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted May 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 @RDspaguy they go away. temp not moving upwards even with heat light solid. The jet that usually is warm is not warm.... there is a tiny leak on the left union gasket. About 1 drop per second Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 Test for voltage at the heater terminals. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted May 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 @RDspaguy Sorry I was away last week! the reading is 225, but I think it should be 240. Does this mean when I reconnected the circuit board leads to the heater I didn’t connect it properly or some other issue? @cranbiz @CanadianSpaTech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted May 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 To be clear, the heater now works when the heat light is engaged, however if the hot tub is being used with the top off and the jets not on, it cannot maintain the temperature and the temp slowly drops. This was never the case prior- the hot tub was always able to maintain the temp whether the lid was on/off or jets were on/off. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted May 31, 2021 Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 Are you sure the spa is not in an economy or sleep mode? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted June 1, 2021 Report Share Posted June 1, 2021 6 hours ago, Alber36 said: @RDspaguy Sorry I was away last week! the reading is 225, but I think it should be 240. Does this mean when I reconnected the circuit board leads to the heater I didn’t connect it properly or some other issue? @cranbiz @CanadianSpaTech What is the voltage to the spa? 240v is an ideal, but the farther you are from the transformer station and your transformer the lower your voltage will be. Anything from 245 to 215 is normal, but the voltage should be the same at the spa power wires and the heater terminals. If it is not then you have a voltage drop, probably at a connection or relay. A few volts is no big deal but any voltage drop means heat, and a big voltage drop means alot of heat that melts the solder points and burns the board. 4 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said: Are you sure the spa is not in an economy or sleep mode? I always forget to ask, as I assume that would be the first thing checked. It does match the description. Good call, Canadaguy! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted June 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 @RDspaguy thanks!! when I turn the spa on, the display states 240 Volts. After re-connecting the heater it reads 230 vs 225 previously and the heater seems to be heating the water much faster. However, I got a message this morning on the control panel display that stated “heater too hot, press button to reset” Any idea what this could be a result from and how I can fix? My biggest uncertainty in the process was how perfectly secured I connected the three copper electrical power lines back to the circuit board... Thanks a million! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted June 6, 2021 Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 On 5/19/2021 at 8:38 PM, Alber36 said: was that relay burning out just bad luck Relays have moving parts so that makes them a wear item. Some last longer than others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted June 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 @RDspaguy correction the display stated “Water too Hot” Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted June 6, 2021 Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 Flow restriction (such as a dirty filter or failing pump), faulty sensor, stuck heater relay. What temp was the water? Remove filter for starters. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted June 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 @RDspaguy the temp was set for 95 but was 98. Tried cleaning the filter and running all jets. Will report back. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted June 7, 2021 Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 If that could temp exceeds the set temp your pump is running too long and overheating it or you have a stuck relay. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted June 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2021 @RDspaguy it doesn’t seem that the pump is running extra, it’s only running as scheduled. However, I brought the filter schedule down from 4 hours per day to 1 hour in the middle of the night but I just can’t get the temp down, it seems to be heating up so quickly. My issue went from one extreme to the other! Maybe my electronics guy fixed the relay too good... The water temp reading is accurate. The ambient temp is pretty warm, 80s and sunny. Just not sure how to resolve it, the control panel keeps stating “HEATER TOO HOT” press button to continue, I press a button and after 15 minutes the error message comes up again. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted June 9, 2021 Report Share Posted June 9, 2021 That sounds like a stuck heater relay to me. There are 3 that control the heater, but only one that switches it for thermostat control, the other 2 are always on unless the temp is high. Can you test voltage at the heater terminals when the spa is heated to set temp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alber36 Posted June 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2021 @RDspaguy Strange I’m not getting any reading anymore. I get 116 when going from either of the heater sensors to heater tube but when measuring across the sensors I get no reading, like I had at the offset of my issue when it wasn’t heating at all. Perhaps a different relay now failed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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