Jump to content

Balboa M7 Not Heating unless High Jet Setting On


Recommended Posts

Hi all, new to the forum and thanks in advance.

I have a 2015 Vita Spa Model MONYG, Balboa MXBP501X PN 56549-01 pack.

When I increase the goal spa temp above the current temp, the light flashes for calibration, then the low jet setting turns on, however water is not being warmed and the spa temp never rises. Only when I turn the Jets on High will the temp rise 1 degree in a half hour. There are no error messages, and everything else seems to work properly. The circuit board (from the front seems okay, pic attached). I have not recently filled the tub, there are no air locks, the filters are clean and water chemistry is perfect. Issue seems to have started out of the blue. Everything appears 100% normal except that water is not warming. Note I have never seen ANY error messages displayed over the lift of the spa.

Please help! Thank you!

IMG_1606.jpg

IMG_1627.jpg

IMG_1635.jpg

IMG_1638.jpg

IMG_1595.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Bad relay on the circuit board. It can be repaired by an electronics/computer repair shop.

Disconnect the heater from the pack by removing the 2- 3/8" nuts while holding the small nut under the copper tabs (see attached) and then lift the copper tabs up so they are not touching anything. Th

@CanadianSpaTech thanks, meter read zero still (see pic). Though the connections had some corrosion on them.   @RDspaguy sounds like you agree that I need to fix circuit board. better t

Posted Images

Spa mode is set to standard/ready.

See 3 images below with the multimeter readings. One testing both connections, the other two testing one connection plus the heating pipe. The one with both connections measured zero.

Thank you!

IMG_1767.JPG

IMG_1778.JPG

IMG_1760.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

@RDspaguy Awesome, thank you!

If I brought the circuit board into an electronics shop, I’m not sure I’d be able to tell them exactly what needs to be done- is there a specific part on the board that needs to be fastened properly? (Circuit map attached)

Any idea what could have caused the issue? Last night I did notice that there was a leak coming from the heater union gasket when jets are on high. (See photo) and also the control panel temp up/down button sometimes after getting wet or heavy use has a difficult time registering the request (have to leave it be and return a few hours later), and has led to using objects to push the arrows hard (see pic).

Lastly, I had initially tested the voltage with a voltage meter (not multimeter) and tripped the circuit... not sure why but perhaps I was careless in where I was making contact.

Thanks so much, you’re a lifesaver!

79C8A6DD-7BE3-418F-B1AC-959401579B24.jpeg

DA6D224E-BA5A-4B9D-9812-C67810B092CD.jpeg

35E97886-111A-4B25-BDFF-5EEE910A1708.jpeg

25BD242D-D1F5-410C-A243-FF9CF237D681.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Disconnect the heater from the pack by removing the 2- 3/8" nuts while holding the small nut under the copper tabs (see attached) and then lift the copper tabs up so they are not touching anything. Then power up the spa and test the 2 copper tabs for 240V while the heat light is solid and not flickering. If you get 240 replace the heater element. If you don't get 240 remove the board and you will likely see a burnt area on the backside of the circuit board. Take it to repair shop and have them re[place the Y1, Y2, K5, K2, K3 relays. You could likely get away with just replacing the K2, K3 relays but I get my guy to replace them all while the board is out and freshen it up so you don't have issues going forward. Relays a fairly inexpensive so why not IMO.

balboa-manualtroubleshootingandservice-reva-43-1024.thumb.jpg.90c2d4985cfaec54efcd29d90f161584.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

@CanadianSpaTech thanks, meter read zero still (see pic). Though the connections had some corrosion on them.

 

@RDspaguy sounds like you agree that I need to fix circuit board.

better to fix board or replace? Sounds like boards are super pricey so may be quicker to fix just hoping I can find the right place. Thanks!

 

F15EDD45-4B82-498D-95FC-BF7C52640692.jpeg

D11B1C77-F9EE-4234-943B-0619EFD99C4D.jpeg

F71264F4-8725-43F0-AC7D-6C2602CCD314.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I see K3 and K5- pic attached also the back. Maybe it is a little black.

 

Having a tough time finding a place that will do it so I just want to make sure when I find a place that I’m specific with instructions...

 

thank you!

 

D2D90F1A-BBF0-4BF7-9183-EC0625AA980A.jpeg

8504D61D-1CAB-498B-B278-83BDB67D9FEE.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

An electronics repair shop can tell you which is bad. That is their job. 

Visible burns and blown solder joints are the result of a bad relay not the cause. 

That dark spot is a burn. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

@RDspaguy

Thank you! I assume they need to take off the black unit just under the K3 and K5 notation and then reconnect it? I ask specifics because they are asking me exactly what need to be done...

 

Is there something else that I should look at to prevent it from happening again?

 

thank you A MILLION!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the most common board problem. The thermostat relay takes the most amp draw so arcs the most when switching which wears down the contacts creating heat, which eventually damages a solder joint or internal relay part. 

I don't repair circuit boards, I replace them. I will not have them repaired for my customers because I cannot warranty the repair. If a customer chooses to do this I will charge them to come remove it and then charge them to put it back in. They are on their own on the repair and any issues that result. 

If your electronics guy needs to be told what to fix, get a different electronics guy. That's his job, not yours.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Those are 2 of the three relays controlling the heater. The single thermostat relay is the one that fails, as it is the one that switches on/off during normal use. 

They are soldered to the board, hence the need for an electronics guy. If your repair guy doesn't know this, he is not an electronics repair guy. Perhaps you should just buy a new board. It sounds like the guy you are talking to doesn't know what the **** he is doing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess not :( he is telling me that I need to buy those two black pieces as they probably cannot be saved when the relay is re-soldered... will try to find the right electronics person or I guess buy a new board for 650 bucks

Link to post
Share on other sites

Those 2 black things ARE the relays. Unfortunately, this guy is a moron or doesn't want to do the work.

Peel back the white paper sticker and take a new picture of the relay with all the numbers in it. Then we can at least find the replacement relay. Removing the old relay and soldering in a new one isn't rocket science for anyone that has worked with a soldering iron before. It would probably take me 20 minutes tops and that would be because I would be really careful.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

@cranbiz, you are a no BS kind of guy, and I like it.

2 hours ago, Alber36 said:

buy a new board for 650 bucks

Ouch. You can get a new aftermarket pack for less than that, which comes with a heater and topside.

Post a pic of the topside and list your equipment (# of pumps, ozone, etc) and maybe we can find you a better option.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...



×
×
  • Create New...