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Beachcomber FL Error


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First remove the filters and reset the main power. Leave them out until the issue is fixed. Dirty filters are flow killers and will throw and error code easily... but still seem like there is good flow. 

Ensure the water level is above the filter basket and not sucking air when pumps are running.

Usually a solid FL code is the pressure switch but you say you have replaced it. Does it have a pressure switch or a flow switch? Just to be clear as Beachcomber has used both.

In either case you want to disconnect ONE wire from the board. Usually with pressure switches you can simply unplug one wire from the switch. Usually with a flow switch you must follow the switch cord to where it plugs into the board and unplug. Either way, ONLY do with the main power to the spa OFF.
   

Turn ON the spa. If the pump now comes on then you confirm the pressure switch/flow switch is at fault. REPLACE.

 
   

If the pump does NOT come on, even with switch wire disconnected, you will need to check the voltage to the pump motor. IF proper voltage is present, then you need a new pump/motor. If there is no voltage present and no error on the topside, the pcboard itself has failed. Failure of the pcboard is rare for this but can happen.

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Thanks,

1. Filter out

2. Water level good

3. It's a new flow switch

4. There's a 2 prong connector that connects to the board - not really possible to just disconnect 1 wire. If I pull the connector off and power on, the pump comes on. Seems like good pressure at the jets

5. On an earlier post someone shorted the two flow pins after the pump started - the heat came on and the error message went away. I tried that using the old connector and shorting the wires - no change

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Can you post photos of the spa pack and the housing the flow switch sits in. 

You have verified that

flow switch is properly positioned in the housing and inline with the flow of water causing the toggle to push up against to post and make full contact.

All gate valves open

Circ pump is running

When you replaced the flow switch did you cut the wires and splice them together to attach the new one?

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Sorry, got 1 picture twice and don't know how to delete it... Switch seems to be properly positioned - no splicing, factory cable and connector. Pump running and valves open. Wouldn't shorting the wires without effect eliminate a flow switch problem?

IMG_20210505_170434855.jpg

IMG_20210505_170445938.jpg

IMG_20210505_170434855.jpg

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A solid fl means the flow switch reads closed when it should be open. Alternating with the temperature (flashing) is the opposite. 

So, when you turn on power, does the pump come on when the flow switch is connected or does it go straight to a solid fl with no pump?

 

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Ok you have a clear window there in the plumbing can you see the toggle pushing up against the post? The metal tape part of the toggle can be deformed/bent easily on install.

@RDspaguy does it look backwards to the flow... looks backwards to me but can't see it very well.

@1Scorpiois the toggle part on the left (pack side) and the post on the right (wet end side) or is it other way around? Flow is moving from right to left so post should be on left  with the toggle pushing up against it. Please verify

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12 hours ago, 1Scorpio said:

not flashing just going from one to the other)

That is a flashing fl. So your switch is not closing when it should. But putting on a jumper once pump was running didn't clear it? 

On the flow switch is a flow direction arrow that should point in the direction of flow, which is from pump to heater. Verify flow direction arrow is pointing the right way.

 

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