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Jacuzzi j-470 - 850 LCD trouble


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I noticed that too. Not sure if it is blown caps or glue to secure the caps. 

If the fuses are good and it ran all night with no circ pump coming on it is a control issue. Those boards have a logic chip, called an E-prom, that determine how it works. If it is not original it might be setup differently than the original. It is the chip with "REV 9.51A" on it. Check the chip on the old board and compare numbers. You might swap them out. 

If the circ is not running but should be you will get a Flo error. If it isn't throwing the error then the pump should not be running at that time. The fact that you get a flo2 error if you make it run means the system isn't turning it on for some reason or it wouldn't throw an error for it running. 

I feel like there is some crucial bit of info we are missing. Like that the spa has not worked since getting the new board, or something. 

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It is to my knowledge that the board was in fact replaced. And it never worked. And I’m realizing now that this could very well be the reason it was “gifted” to me. 
 

I did notice that the 6600-098 board has been replaced with the 6600-728, so not sure the difference there. I have also found a refurbished 098 board for $360 CAD. But if I put a new board in, I could very well be in the same Boat as currently. 
 

looks like I’ll need at minimum another 18 pack of barley sandwiches. 

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I also just want to thank all who are chiming in here, and providing their insight. It is truly appreciated, as I consider myself quite handy, but definitely not a hot tub expert at this point. 

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Update today, pulled the E-prom from the old board, from what I can make out,  numbers are the same. Well, the main number is anyways. (The one engraved in the chip) Same action on the hot tub. 
 

Ohmed out my heater and it’s reading around 11.1. So I feel the heater is good, which is a bonus. 
 

also I’ve attached a picture from the other board, of those filter things that appear to look leaky on the current board. They do look very slightly bulged at the top. Is this my next course of action? Or any further insight? 
 

 

image.jpg

image.jpg

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Would being unable to unlock the topside panel have anything to do with these issues? If I do the display mode down sequence, the lock symbol flashes, but doesn’t disappear. I read somewhere on the circ pump sequence programming for summer logic, but seeing the water is only 50* it should run regardless. 
 

I feel the reason for the lockout is the ICE and COOL code.....

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Yes, ice will override the controller, but should run the circ and heater if I remember correctly (which is questionable). I just want to cover the bases before jumping to a new board, which it most likely is going to be.

The fact that it doesn't throw an error with the circ not running is puzzling. Am I correct about that? 

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Yes. You are correct. As soon as the spa is powered on, jet pump 1 runs on constant. Topside panel shows jet pump 1 logo flashing, as well as water temperature, (50*) COOL AND ICE. 
 

I do believe jet pump 2 is supposed to kick in, as well, but it does not. I haven’t looked into that a whole Bunch yet, as I feel that motor may need replacing as it’s quite stiff.

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7 hours ago, Kyle88 said:

I feel the reason for the lockout is the ICE and COOL code.....

Add hot water...then you won't need to feel...lol

 

18 hours ago, Kyle88 said:

but definitely not a hot tub expert at this point. 

me neither.. lol

Where are you located?

For shits and giggles I'm pulling the board and looking on the back. Sounds like it has to come out anyway. If you hold it up to the light you might spot something amiss. 

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2 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Add hot water...then you won't need to feel...lol

 

me neither.. lol

Where are you located?

For shits and giggles I'm pulling the board and looking on the back. Sounds like it has to come out anyway. If you hold it up to the light you might spot something amiss. 

Located in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. 
 

Yeah, I think ill pull the board and try replacing those caps, and maybe anything else that looks goofy. Otherwise, looks like I’ll be ordering a board online, And see what happens. 
 

Couldn’t I just run some timed extension cords for the circ pump and heater?  😹😹😹

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The caps in the last set of pictures (the old board, I guess) are bad. For a while, there were a lot of counterfeit capacitors made by several Chinese companies that were used throughout the electronics industry. They came to light due to leakage and electrolyte expansion which domed the top. 

My industry is the computer industry and I can't tell you how many bad caps I have changed out.

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2 hours ago, Kyle88 said:

Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. 

Alright, you made that up. 😂

3 hours ago, Kyle88 said:

Couldn’t I just run some timed extension cords for the circ pump and heater?

You can do whatever you want, just don't expect your insurance to cover the damages.

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1 minute ago, RDspaguy said:

Alright, you made that up. 😂

You can do whatever you want, just don't expect your insurance to cover the damages.

Haha. No joke, I’m a Canadian too! 
 

update while I’m at the office today, changed the capacitors on my desk and will try later today.... pray for me. 🤞🤞

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@RDspaguy We call it Catscratchewan. It's so flat you can watch your dog run away for 3 days. They say if you only have a week to live go to Saskatoon and it will feel like a year...lol. RD if you want to see remote.. google my birthplace Lynn Lake Manitoba... 1000 KM (620 miles) North of Winnipeg!

Go Argo's! 

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15 minutes ago, RDspaguy said:

🤣

We call that "Kansas".

Hahaha! @CanadianSpaTech I must say, “Catscratchewan” is definitely a new one for me. I spent a number of years in the Brandon, area for work, so I know the territory. And yes, home base for you is definitely a ways off. 
 

looks that the old Argo/Roughrider banter will Never die. Gotta love the CFL. I’ll also hold all my sports chatter and banter, until I get this hot tub going, anyway...🤪🤪

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Well gentlemen, capacitors changed and exact same circumstances. No change. 
 

what are your thoughts on these resistors, (the 4 right of the caps) that were covered in the ooze that leaked out of the caps. I tried running continuity test through the resistors and I had zero on the top 3, but some Slight readings on the bottom. 
 

im thinking of CHanging these resistors from the other board.... otherwise I have to buy 100 pack of each, cause all 4 are different. 

the three on the top of capacitors may need to be changed as well? 

 

A5A95281-61BF-4417-98DD-B2B3ECFD001A.jpeg

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15 hours ago, RDspaguy said:

You guys can have a Canadian love-fest by private message. The rest of us don't want to hear it. 😉

@RDspaguyAh Schucks... I'm Blushing a little. Are you jealous?... Don't worry...It's OK (pats Rd lovingly on the head) I can have other friends and still be true

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On 4/30/2021 at 4:40 PM, Kyle88 said:

Well gentlemen, capacitors changed and exact same circumstances. No change. 
 

what are your thoughts on these resistors, (the 4 right of the caps) that were covered in the ooze that leaked out of the caps. I tried running continuity test through the resistors and I had zero on the top 3, but some Slight readings on the bottom. 
 

im thinking of CHanging these resistors from the other board.... otherwise I have to buy 100 pack of each, cause all 4 are different. 

the three on the top of capacitors may need to be changed as well? 

 

A5A95281-61BF-4417-98DD-B2B3ECFD001A.jpeg

Those big things marked Z1, etc, are not resistors, those are diodes. You can check a diode with a multimeter. Many these days do have a diode test function. Basically a diode allows current in only one direction, so in testing, the probes in one direction should show an open and reversed will show some sort of continuity.

The small resistors are probably fine. It's extremely rare for those to fail and when they do, it's usually open and there will be visible signs of failure.

 

You should be able to get components in smaller quantities at someone like Digi-Key.

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