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Jacuzzi j-470 - 850 LCD trouble


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Hey all. I’m new here. I have a jacuzzi-470, older model with the 850 LCD. It’s been sitting for about 4 years as I got it for free from a friend. Had to fix a few leaks and get things going. I was told it was a brand new circuit board. So here’s where I’m at right now. 
 

as soon as I power on the spa, with new cold water-(55*). The jet pump 1 runs constant, and I have no power to TB2 which runs the circ pump. If I jump over and run the circ pump on the ozone ports, circ pump runs fine but throws the solid FLO code. I’ve cut the wires and bypassed the flow switch. But it throws FLO2 code. 
 

will a bad flow switch, not allow power to the circ pump? I’ve also tried unlocking my control panel, to make sure it’s not a programming issue, but with it being cold water, it should power no matter what, right?  And I am unable to unlock the topside panel.  So with everything wired properly, I have a COOL AND ICE code; but no power to my TB2 ports. 
 

Any help would be appreciated. 

E6A12ADC-B729-4A98-ADD6-C25E8BF7F518.jpeg

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Removed them from the sensors port on the board. Seems to have corrected the flo issue, but I still don’t have power to TB2 which would feed the circ pump. This tub did have an ozonator, but I’ve removed it. I’ve tried running the circ pump leads to TB6, and the circ pump kicks in and runs beautifully. But the board doesn’t recognize it to call For heat. So I’m feeling it’s a relay that feeds TB2 to be bad. And if that’s my only issue (so far) I would like to try replace the relay instead of a $600 board. 

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So, one other thing you can try.  With the power off, move the black circulation pump wire to the left side of that little terminal block.  Then, move the white wire for the circulation pump, which is on the left side of the main terminal block, to the right side of the main terminal block.  See if that will get your circulation pump working.

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26 minutes ago, ciderjack said:

So, one other thing you can try.  With the power off, move the black circulation pump wire to the left side of that little terminal block.  Then, move the white wire for the circulation pump, which is on the left side of the main terminal block, to the right side of the main terminal block.  See if that will get your circulation pump working.

Excellent to hear. I will definitely try that today after work and see what results I can come up with. Thanks for your insight! It is very muchly appreciated. 

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Ok. That system knows when the flow switch should be closed and when it should be open. If it is not working as it should you get an error. So unplugging it or jumping it will cause a Flo or flo2 error. As will plugging in the circ pump to direct power. 

Let it run. It will clear the ice error and start the circ and heater. If it does not, let us know.

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Thanks for your input, I noticed when running the circ pump on the ozone terminals, it did throw the flo2 code, and everything was locked up, on the topside panel. Once I pulled the pins on the sensor cable, the flo2 code disappeared but still No call for heat. 
 

so with the flow switch being unplugged from the sensors plug, does that just automatically assume the circuit board is reading the flow switch is fine? 

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No. If it is unplugged it will read open even when the circ is on and it should be closed, then you get a flow error. It clears the error when the circ is plugged in to direct power, which closes the switch when the computer knows it should be open, by opening the switch via unplugging it. You are "tricking" the computer, but it will only last until it turns on the circ pump.

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So I’ve gone ahead and hooked my flow switch back up to the sensor strap, running the circ pump on the ozone terminals, it throws the FLO2 code. 
 

i have no power at either circ pump terminal. Only way to run the circulation pump at this point is off the ozone terminals. 
 

topside panel is locked and non responsive to any buttons. Flashing between COOL and FLO2. 

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With everything back to its original locations, and a quick reset, jet pump 1 runs, topside flashes COOL and ICE, and water temp at 55*. 
 

currently just letting it run and going to see what happens. 

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Good. If it hasn't started working by tomorrow we will dig deeper, but so far it is doing what it should.

Post a pic of the circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area.

Do you have a multimeter?

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9 hours ago, ciderjack said:

So, one other thing you can try.  With the power off, move the black circulation pump wire to the left side of that little terminal block.  Then, move the white wire for the circulation pump, which is on the left side of the main terminal block, to the right side of the main terminal block.  See if that will get your circulation pump working.

Excellent to hear. I will definitely try that today after work and see what results I can come up with. Thanks for your insight! It is very muchly appreciated. 

 

4 minutes ago, RDspaguy said:

Good. If it hasn't started working by tomorrow we will dig deeper, but so far it is doing what it should.

Post a pic of the circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area.

Do you have a multimeter?

Ok. I did shut it off, but I will let it run overnight. 
 

I will post the pictures as well. And yes, I have a fairly cheap volt meter. It’s not a real fancy one, but I can likely get one. 

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2 hours ago, Kyle88 said:

will definitely try that today after work 

I wouldn't recommend it. I am no electronics guy but I am pretty sure they wired it the way they did for a reason. I also don't think the white connection is on a relay, so best case it runs non-stop and throws a flo2 error.

Did you test your fuses? Put one lead of your voltmeter at each end of the fuse and test for voltage. It will be zero (good fuse) or 240ish (bad fuse).

On 4/27/2021 at 5:36 AM, CanadianSpaTech said:

Post photo of the schematic on the inside cover. Pump 1 will likely stop once it gets warm enough the clear the "ICE" code. Remove the fuses from their holders and test.

Remove the filters until the issue is fixed

I think that pretty well sums it up. I know he's Canadian and all, but you should at least TRY his suggestions. 😉

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If the circ pump is not getting power on start up and it works when plugged in to the ozone then I am pulling the board and checking the backside for darkened or burnt areas around the pump relays. Heater relays burn up but pump relays might not so you may or may not see burnt areas and still have a failed relay.

@RDspaguy any concern? 

image.jpg.c435b93a294f19200163b2e6e498f7c5_LI.thumb.jpg.8f68be4bfeacd4c02a4b5f481ec44551.jpg

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The beer is the only way one can get through a brain stew of this magnitude.....🥸.

 

So I do have a spare board, that came with the tub, as this board was to be brand new. So any ideas which relay I would be looking at swapping? 

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May want to just replace the board if your spare is good. Those capacitors look like they leaked. Based on the components around them, they could be filter caps in the power supply section.

If that board is just a parts board, pull the caps and replace those. Then start looking at the relays.

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I think the spare is smoked. It was the reason it was changed about 4 years ago. So Not sure if either of them are good at this point. 
 

So here’s my dilemma, ( and don’t tell my wife, )  this tub was a side project tub, and I’m fine to sink $600-$700 into it for another board, but is there any way to test the heater before I drop that money into a board? I would hate to buy a board, just to find out I gotta sink another $4-500 into the heater assembly. 
 

and i also need a new cover.... but I can likely build that. 

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1 hour ago, cranbiz said:

Ohm out the heater. If if shows no continuity (an infinity reading) the heater is open and bad. If it shows 0 ohms, it's shorted and also bad. Either @RDspaguy or @CanadianSpaTech can conform but the heater should show somewhere around 10 ohms of resistance (might be a bit more, probably not less).

I can confirm but will not conform

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