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Balboa GS100 Not Heating


AndyO

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Hi everyone, I have a Spa with a Balboa GS100 controller.

There are no error codes showing, but when the heater relay clicks in, I get voltage at the heater element pins for half a second, just enough to ping the multi-meter, but then nothing.

The display panel is the VL260 which has 4 buttons (warm, cool, light, jets), with led's above the jets, light, and cool button. When the heater comes on, the light above the cool button comes on, then after a short while it begins to flutter (blink rapidly).

I've gone through every reset I can think of, the filter is currently out, I've made sure there are no airlocks and all the jets are open...any ideas?

 

Cheers,

Andy

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11 hours ago, AndyO said:

When the heater comes on, the light above the cool button comes on, then after a short while it begins to flutter (blink rapidly).

When it is fluttering it will test fire the heater and the sensors are testing for flow. Once it goes solid the heater is on (usually takes 30-60 seconds.) 

Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover

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19 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

When it is fluttering it will test fire the heater and the sensors are testing for flow. Once it goes solid the heater is on (usually takes 30-60 seconds.) 

Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover

The light does go solid, but there isn't any voltage to the heater. It's like the relay clicks in but doesn't stay that way.

 

20210419_132750.jpg

20210422_110311.jpg

20210422_162046.jpg

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Remove the white amp connector the attaches the heater to the board. Test for power at the board with your probes in white wire and black wire when the led is solid. If you don't have power coming off the board then it is likely a bad relay. I would then remove the circuit board and have a look on the back for burnt or darkened areas. Relays can be replaced. I use a professional but some can do it on their own depending on skill, knowledge and having the correct tools.

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On 4/22/2021 at 9:27 PM, CanadianSpaTech said:

Remove the white amp connector the attaches the heater to the board. Test for power at the board with your probes in white wire and black wire when the led is solid. If you don't have power coming off the board then it is likely a bad relay. I would then remove the circuit board and have a look on the back for burnt or darkened areas. Relays can be replaced. I use a professional but some can do it on their own depending on skill, knowledge and having the correct tools.

Yeah, no power...I'll remove the circuit board and test the relays.

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On 4/22/2021 at 9:27 PM, CanadianSpaTech said:

Remove the white amp connector the attaches the heater to the board. Test for power at the board with your probes in white wire and black wire when the led is solid. If you don't have power coming off the board then it is likely a bad relay. I would then remove the circuit board and have a look on the back for burnt or darkened areas. Relays can be replaced. I use a professional but some can do it on their own depending on skill, knowledge and having the correct tools.

Don't see any burnt parts or dry joints on the circuit board...

20210425_125332.jpg

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On 4/25/2021 at 1:21 PM, CanadianSpaTech said:

It's always nice to see burnt areas around the relays but you don't always see it when they fail. If you have a solid light on the topside but no power off the board then I'm going with replace the relays. I normally have them all replaced at the same time.

Replace all the relays, couldn't get Zettler, had to go with TE. I also found a cracked track on the circuit board which I repaired.

I now have the heater working again.

Thanks for your help.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 4/30/2021 at 12:18 AM, AndyO said:

Hi AndyO. Could you tell me where you got the relays from and part number of them. My son's hot tub is the same model as yours and doing the very same thing. Also do you have a picture of where the break in the board was. Thanks Aladdin..

 

Hi there. Do you have a picture of where the crack was in the board.? Is have the same tub with the same issue. Cheer 

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For those looking for the relays I used and where the broken track in the circuit board was...I've attached some pics.

Zoom in to see where I've circled the broken track on the circuit board pic.

btw...it's nearly a month later and the spa is going great. We've been enjoying it more than ever.

Cheers,

AndyO

Circuit board broken track.jpg

Spa Relays RS Components.JPG

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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Hi AndyO, thank you for your comments and suggestions on here. I'm experiencing exactly the same issues as you had - likely a bad relay. I have purchase the relays you suggested (the parts list was incredibly helpful) but I'm struggling with replacing the relays on the board itself. The PCB has a coating that makes it impenetrable to my Bunnings soldering iron so I can't get the old relays off the board - am I missing something in this process? Any advice would be much appreciated!

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Needs a lot of heat to melt the old solder and a solder sucker to suck it up off the board when melted is helpful. I tried to do a few boards years ago and went through 3 different guns trying to get it right. I just send the boards out now but I am lucky to have a local shop for the work.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
3 hours ago, Jaymanuk said:

Hi what was the actual part numbers of the relays was it all 3 relays next to the actual heater power output on the pcb thanks 

I changed all 3 and it started working. Scratch the coating really well before trying to solder the relays. The coating gave me lots of trouble. 

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  • 2 months later...
8 minutes ago, viking1 said:

Hi all,

I have the same problem, but not in the same way!

I have power when i start up the spa, but current to the heater is turned of after 30 seconds, and do not come back.

do any one now what to do?

Br.

Chris.

Meaby the temp sensor is faulty and thinks asked temperature is met

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  • 1 month later...

Just had one of these controllers for repair.  Happy to have found the forum.

I removed the relays easily with a low temp solder called chipquik, it melts are 58 degrees.

Heat the relay pins and flood the connection with chipquik. once you have done the four connections, reheat them and the relay will drop right out.

Testing the relays, one was definitely faulty - would not actuate.  Have order spares from RS components, @AndyO

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi, I have the same controller in my spa, my spa is not heating up but everything seems to be working fine as there are no error codes. I have changed the heating element but to no avail, any chance the fuses in the controller board are gone or is it something more...... Expensive???

Thanks

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