Jake8503 Posted April 9, 2021 Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 So I am new to having a hot tub, we bought a cheap used unit that was supposed to work great. I ran wire, hooked it up to the Balboa Value 2000 system, ran it to my panel and hooked it up wrong on the breaker. I know I know I just didn't pay attention. It is a GFCI breaker I ran my white wire to the ground bar, then put he wire from the tub to the same spot on the breaker well it turns out that was supposed to be a hot (red or black) wire then I put the red to the white spot. It supposed to go red white black. I turned the breaker on the display flashed for a split second then nothing. I found my mistake, corrected it. Checked all the fuses I could find on the Balboa system and they all looked fine, I tested the ceramic fuse and it tested good. The system does nothing. Nothing comes on the control panel. The tub is still empty so is there a system in place to prevent it from running without water? It is an older Catalina Spa. Did I likely fry my board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 9, 2021 Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 @Jake8503 Post photos of the GFCI and it's wiring. Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover and I'm sure we can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake8503 Posted April 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 Thanks I will do so when I get home tonight. I am thinking I fried something since I put a hot to the neutral and neutral to the hot on the breaker, nothing tripped when I turned the breaker on initially, the display flashed on then went dark. I still have power at the board so I'm sure the GFCI breaker is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted April 9, 2021 Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 Make sure they are good pics so we can see the components on the board. And include the wiring diagram on the inside of the box cover. Do you have a voltmeter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake8503 Posted April 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 I do so I know I still have 220 at the board, 120 on each Hot wire. I tested the resistance on the ceramic fuse and it checked out good and looked at the glass fuses I could find and they all still had filament, so I assumed they were good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted April 10, 2021 Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 1 hour ago, Jake8503 said: at the board, 120 on each Hot wire. Test hot to hot for 240. 1 hour ago, Jake8503 said: I tested the resistance on the ceramic fuse With it removed? If installed, turn on power and test across fuse for voltage. You should read 0 volts. 1 hour ago, Jake8503 said: looked at the glass fuses Test them as above. As I recall, on that board there is a tiny fuse, maybe a half inch long, that is soldered in. This is the low voltage fuse. Test it with your meter as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake8503 Posted April 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 7 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said: @Jake8503 Post photos of the GFCI and it's wiring. Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover and I'm sure we can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake8503 Posted April 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 3 hours ago, RDspaguy said: Test hot to hot for 240. With it removed? If installed, turn on power and test across fuse for voltage. You should read 0 volts. Test them as above. As I recall, on that board there is a tiny fuse, maybe a half inch long, that is soldered in. This is the low voltage fuse. Test it with your meter as well. Yes to 240 Yes removed and I will test voltage across it after work tomorrow. I will double check all the fuses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted April 10, 2021 Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 Ok. Not the board I thought, which has a separate transformer not one built onto the board. There is a fuse beside the pressure switch, did you check it? By sending 240v on the 120v circuit you either blew the fuse protecting the transformer or blew the board. This also, momentarily at least, sent double the voltage to the low voltage computer controls. We are hoping to find a fuse, because if not you will need a board and maybe topside and sensors as well. Possibly ozonator, pumps, blower, light controller, etc... You made one of the worst mistakes you can make with a spa. We'll keep our fingers crossed that you find a blown fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake8503 Posted April 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 Yeah I need to finish checking them, won't have time until Monday though. The problem is I assumed my neutral from the tub went to the side of the breaker that has the pigtail neutral which in fact was supposed to be hot. The scary thing is the breaker didn't trip, the display on the tub flashed then went out, then I turned the breaker off. I'll keep testing things before I replace the board but I fear the worst...I only paid $300 for the tub so if I did screw it up the worst part will be moving it and getting a different one haha. Life goes on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 10, 2021 Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 Yeah remove and check that glass F4 fuse it powers the board. Was the spa set up to run as a 120VAC spa before you got it? I see a lot of components (white wire) connected to White AC (120VAC) and don't see anything plugged into RED AC (240VAC) Are the pumps, blower 240 or 120? Least of your worries at this point but if you get it going we can look at all that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake8503 Posted April 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 27 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said: Yeah remove and check that glass F4 fuse it powers the board. Was the spa set up to run as a 120VAC spa before you got it? I see a lot of components (white wire) connected to White AC (120VAC) and don't see anything plugged into RED AC (240VAC) Are the pumps, blower 240 or 120? Least of your worries at this point but if you get it going we can look at all that. It was set up with 240 previously, it was strictly me 100% not paying attention and just assuming. I've wired 240 before but never with the GFCI. I am going to test all of them again and hope for the best. All the components are 240. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted April 10, 2021 Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 The white wires connected to White AC are being powered by 120VAC. White AC (cluster of male connectors coming off the circuit board) is 120VAC. Red AC cluster provides 240VAC power. So if a white wire coming from a component like a pump or blower is connected to White AC it is running as a 120V. If it is going to Red AC it is powering a 240V component. Your components might only be 120V and can't be run by 240. You would have to verify each components voltage before making any changes. If it was set up and run as it is now then it should be fine as is. Again least of your worries at this point. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake8503 Posted April 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2021 4 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said: The white wires connected to White AC are being powered by 120VAC. White AC (cluster of male connectors coming off the circuit board) is 120VAC. Red AC cluster provides 240VAC power. So if a white wire coming from a component like a pump or blower is connected to White AC it is running as a 120V. If it is going to Red AC it is powering a 240V component. Your components might only be 120V and can't be run by 240. You would have to verify each components voltage before making any changes. If it was set up and run as it is now then it should be fine as is. Again least of your worries at this point. Well it turns out the 3/10 amp fuse on the circuit board is bad. I have to try to find one, I only have a Home Depot locally and they list a .5 amp time delay fuse or a local spa repair place I'm going to try Monday or I'll have to order online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted April 11, 2021 Report Share Posted April 11, 2021 Keep us posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake8503 Posted April 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2021 IT'S ALIVE!!! It is currently filled, chemicals are ideal and it's warming up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted April 12, 2021 Report Share Posted April 12, 2021 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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