mscdman Posted March 22, 2021 Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 I’ve tried to use the search feature by author but am unable to find the great write up @waterbear posted about proper and correct fill and start up procedure. Anyone point me to that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscdman Posted March 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 27, 2021 Report Share Posted March 27, 2021 @waterbear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscdman Posted March 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2021 I think it was waterbear? Maybe someone else But it was a great write up on initial hot tub start up procedures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 27, 2021 Report Share Posted March 27, 2021 By putting the @ in front of his name he gets a notification to check this thread. Maybe he knows what you are looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscdman Posted April 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 Guess I’ll have to just scour the site. Darn. Was a great write up on how to start up a hot tub and balance the water after a refill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted April 1, 2021 Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 That describes much of what@waterbear posts. I am surprised he hasn't responded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.sebens Posted April 1, 2021 Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 Are you talking about nitros? https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/13634-nitros-approach-to-water-maintaince/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscdman Posted April 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 No but thank you for posting that. Nitros post is a water balance post. I’m looking for the start up procedure post. It talked about what order to start up and add chemicals. Etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterbear Posted April 1, 2021 Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 I will write one up and pin it once I have the time. RIght now I have company from out of town so my time is limited. The board changed ownership several years back and many of the pinned posts were removed. I did have a post on bromine for beginners if that is what you are looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscdman Posted April 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 It was already written. Maybe it was @chem geek? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscdman Posted April 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 Can you pst the bromine for beginners? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterbear Posted April 2, 2021 Report Share Posted April 2, 2021 22 hours ago, mscdman said: It was already written. Maybe it was @chem geek? No, I wrote it several years back. It was posted here and also on TFP from when I was mod there (from when TPF was still owned by the person who started it. )Not sure if it is still on TFP or not. I don't frequent that board anymore. This board changed ownership several years back and many of the pinned posts were removed. I will rewrite it and repost it as soon as I get a chance within the next weeks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscdman Posted April 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2021 Thanks. I’m going to be refilling in a few weeks and wanted to follow the procedure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterbear Posted May 10, 2021 Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 @mscdman Here you go! https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53410-how-to-use-bromine-3-step-method/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscdman Posted May 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 Thank you! I just got it drained and refilled yesterday. This time I got the proper ranges from the start hopefully. adjusted TA up from 50 to 90 - to account for bromine floater lower PH fall adjusted CH up to 120 PH was good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscdman Posted May 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 Incidentally, reading your post and your say NOT to use the K2005. Why is that? I just got it and love it. It’s easy to use and seems more accurate than the test strips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterbear Posted May 10, 2021 Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 K2005 uses the DPD test method. K2006/K2106 uses FAS-DPD testing which is not subject to bleachout at high sanitizer levels (DPD tests will bleach out making you think that sanitizer is low or non existent when in reality is at shock levels). DPD testing uses color blocks of shades of red, and most men are unable to distinguish them (FACT!) and is not usable by those suffering from color blindness. FAS-DPD testing is a drop counting test with a distinct color change from pink to colorless DPD testing is limited to the precision of the color blocks. FAS-DPD testing has a precision of .2 ppm or .5 ppm (K2006) or .5 ppm or 1.25 ppm (K2106) depending on whether the sample is 10 ml or 25 ml. All other tests are the same in the kits with the exception of CYA test not being included in the k2106 since its not needed for bromine.. Once you try FAD-DPD testing you never go back to DPD. You can get a Taylor K1515A stand alone FAS-DPD test kit and just test for FC and then multiply the results by 2.25 to get total bromine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterbear Posted May 10, 2021 Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 40 minutes ago, mscdman said: adjusted TA up from 50 to 90 - to account for bromine floater lower PH fall with the aeration in a tub that might be a bit high. Bromine tabs are acidic but if you test your TA every week to month (depending on how fast it changes in YOUR spa. Start with weekly and if it is stable go to every two weeks, and if stable monthly) and adjust it as needed and you will have better pH stability in the 50 to 70 range rather than setting it at 90. IF you pH is remaining stable at 90 and not always rising and requiring acid then you are fine but you should not have to be lowering pH more often than perhaps every month or so. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscdman Posted May 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 45 minutes ago, waterbear said: K2005 uses the DPD test method. K2006/K2106 uses FAS-DPD testing which is not subject to bleachout at high sanitizer levels (DPD tests will bleach out making you think that sanitizer is low or non existent when in reality is at shock levels). DPD testing uses color blocks of shades of red, and most men are unable to distinguish them (FACT!) and is not usable by those suffering from color blindness. FAS-DPD testing is a drop counting test with a distinct color change from pink to colorless DPD testing is limited to the precision of the color blocks. FAS-DPD testing has a precision of .2 ppm or .5 ppm (K2006) or .5 ppm or 1.25 ppm (K2106) depending on whether the sample is 10 ml or 25 ml. All other tests are the same in the kits with the exception of CYA test not being included in the k2106 since its not needed for bromine.. Once you try FAD-DPD testing you never go back to DPD. You can get a Taylor K1515A stand alone FAS-DPD test kit and just test for FC and then multiply the results by 2.25 to get total bromine. Interesting. Good thing I can differentiate shades of red and when I test PH, CH, TA etc. I make sure my sanitizer levels are not high. ive not had any issues yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterbear Posted May 11, 2021 Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 22 hours ago, mscdman said: Good thing I can differentiate shades of red IF you are male chances are you cannot but can learn to unless you have worked with color before. There is a way to dilute your samples with distlled water to test when sanitizer is high. Look on the lid of your kit for instructions. It is cumbersome and time consuming, IMHO. IF you see a flash of red that disappears when you add the reagent to your sample it is indicative of bleachout and you need to do a dilution test. It happens more often than you think it might. There are two dilutions, 1:1 and 1:5 marked on the comparator. Here are some videos from Taylor Technologies that discuss the dilutions. https://www.taylortechnologies.com/en/page/230/k-2005-complete-kit-with-liquid-dpd Pay particular attention to the chlorine test interference video in the link below: https://www.taylortechnologies.com/en/page/235/general-test-interferences The FAS-DPD method can directly test up to about 25 ppm FC levels (and the equivalent in total bromine) without dilutions or beachout problems. When sanitizer is beyond the limits of the test it goes off color and brownish.This is the reason I recommend this test and strongly recommend getting the K1515A as an add on to your K2005. Also, if you elect to use MPS you MUST add the Monopersulfate Interference Remover (for 2000 Series kits) K-2041 (.75 oz) or K-2042 (2 oz) and use it whenever testing sanitizer levels because MPS will test as chlorine/bromine and give a false reading unless the interference is removed. The K2041 will fit inside the case of the K2005 and the k2042 fits in the service k2005 with 2 oz reagent bottles. However the 2 oz size reagent pack is only a few dollars more (about $5 in the US) so it's a better value for the money if you are willing to give up the convenience of storing the reagent i the main test kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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