derekmccrea Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 My FLO error comes on once the spa reaches temperature. I replaced the FLO switch twice. No luck. I also tried the trick above about setting the cycle to start before my spa reaches temp. Still no luck. I have a 99 Sundance Optima with a 2 cycle pump. Update-- Replaced the board. Still same problem even with a new flo switch. Wires and pins are all clean and snug. If I disconnect the red wire that powers the high speed the flo error does not occur and the spa works correct just no hi. Could it be an internal electrical issue in the pump causing the FLO error? The pump can run lo and high prior to the spa reaching the set temp with no problem. What I find odd if the solid flo light comes on within seconds of the spa turning off after reaching temperature. Can't be the piping or the flo switch would register earlier than it is. Took pump apart and the impeller looks fine. If I run the spa without the red wire connected for hi and then plug in the red wire the flo error pops back up even if the spa isn't running. Does exact same thing with 2 different flo switches and 2 boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmccrea Posted March 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 Another update. The FLO light comes on regardless if the red wire for the 2 speed pump is connected or not. What was making the FLO light go out was nackwashing cold water thru the lines to drop the temperature of the water in the spa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmccrea Posted March 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 Part 3. If I disconnect the red wire from my flo sensor the spa runs the same …FLO error once it reaches temp. If I bypass flo by tying both flo wires together the same happens. Flo error once temp is reached. If I turn off power and Backwash cold water thru the pipes and turn the spa pack power back on the error is gone until it reaches temp again. Otherwise I have to leave the spa off for several hours to reset the flo error. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 A solid flo means the system thinks that the flow switch is closed when it should be open. This is usually a faulty or improperly installed flo switch. There should be no correlation to the high speed pump or temperature of the water. I would suspect your flow switch is bottomed out and stuck closed. Unscrew it 1 or 2 full turns. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmccrea Posted March 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 I have an older style flo switch below. I dont think turning it would make a difference. I replaced it with a brand new one yesterday and it does the same thing. Then I replaced my board. Same problem. I guess I could replace the flo switch a 3rd time? The wiring and plugs are snug. I can disconnect the red wire from my flo switch and the spa runs fine. Until an hour later when the spa reaches temp. I can tie both red and wires together and bypass the flo switch. Same problem. Could this still be the flo switch? I don't understand how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmccrea Posted March 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 There are 2 flo errors, solid and flashing. Solids means switch is closed when it should be open, flashing is the opposite. Disconnecting or splicing the flow switch wires just means you are manually opening or closing it. The computer knows when it should be open or closed, so either will throw a flo error depending on current pump operation. Post a pic of this flow switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 Haha. Beat me to it. Not sure what you mean by "old style, as they still use that style, but unscrew it as I suggested and try. If you screw those in too far the tab on the switch will contact the pipe bottom when closed and can stick or be kept from closing at all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmccrea Posted March 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 I have the solid flo but only after the spa reaches the set temp. So if my spa w a twr is 62 degrees and I set my topside panel to 98 the spa runs with no FLO error for the hours it takes to reach 98. As soon as it reaches 98 and the pump shuts off the solid FLO comes on. This happens regardless if I have the switch hooked up or not. If it is the switch then why wait 6 hours for the temp to reach the setting then come on when the pump stops? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 1 minute ago, derekmccrea said: pump shuts off the solid FLO comes on. Stuck flow switch. It knows the pump is off so the flow switch should open. If it does not, you get a solid flo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmccrea Posted March 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 I will unscrew it and see if that helps. I looked at the probe thru the pipe after I installed it to make sure it was facing the right way and there was a third of an inch between the end of the probe and where the pipe is. Is the open position flo switch when the barb bends toward the probe? Then the closed position would be where the barb goes back to the way it "rests" when no water is flowing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmccrea Posted March 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 Dang. Maybe my new flo switch is bad too. That seems the most logical. Maybe I will try a 3rd and see if that fixes the issue. I tried a different new board and can't imagine 2 boards having the same issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 1 hour ago, derekmccrea said: Is the open position flo switch when the barb bends toward the probe? No. Closed when touching post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmccrea Posted March 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 So if the flo closed is when it is closest to the post, and of it needs to be closed when not running, then every chart I have seen is wrong. The flo switch is installed where the arrow that shows the direction of water flow places the barb on the side of water travel. This makes the flo switch closed when water is running into it. Is my flo switch barb suppose to face away from the direction of water travel? I installed like the below photo and this makes the flo close when running not when stopped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 It needs to be open when not running. The arrow on the flow switch indicates water flow direction. The water should push the tab toward the post. It is closed when the tab is touching the post. I don't know, or care, what you read. I have been fixing these things for a living for 26 years. I am telling you how it works. Believe me or not, makes no difference to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmccrea Posted March 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 Thanks. Sorry for my confusion. Ia have tried two FLO switches both installed where the water flo makes the tab push against the post. Since I still have a FLO error is it possible that my tab may be too close to my post when the spa isn't running? Right now the tab is about one eight of an inch from the post when not running. Would that cause the FLO switch to think that it is closed? How far from the post does the tab need to to register as open? Maybe I need to bend it where it is maybe a half inch away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 It could indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.sebens Posted March 15, 2021 Report Share Posted March 15, 2021 Just a thought here, can you use a multimeter on resistance to see if the switch is open and when it’s closed? You could bench test it before installation also. If you don’t have a multimeter get a cheap one from harbor freight it will do what you need it to. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
contact634 Posted March 15, 2021 Report Share Posted March 15, 2021 sundance flow switch shows how it should be with NO flow at first them flow go to about 7:34 to see switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderjack Posted March 15, 2021 Report Share Posted March 15, 2021 (edited) 19 hours ago, derekmccrea said: I have the solid flo but only after the spa reaches the set temp. So if my spa w a twr is 62 degrees and I set my topside panel to 98 the spa runs with no FLO error for the hours it takes to reach 98. As soon as it reaches 98 and the pump shuts off the solid FLO comes on. This happens regardless if I have the switch hooked up or not. If it is the switch then why wait 6 hours for the temp to reach the setting then come on when the pump stops? If the switch is disconnected at the switch, but the spa runs and heats, then the problem is either in the sensor wiring or in the board. Also, like d.sebans said, you can use a multimeter to test the wires and flow switch before powering the spa on Edited March 15, 2021 by ciderjack Added line about testing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacGuyver Posted September 9, 2022 Report Share Posted September 9, 2022 After installing a new flo sensor, new filters and a new circulation pump I continue to have the solid “flo” error as above. I’ve owned this Sundance cameo for 11 years and have had similar issues but this one has me stumped. Everything runs perfectly until it reaches the set temp then it shows a solid “flo” and shuts down. Weird thing is the circulation pump keeps running and the flo sensor remains closed while it shuts down and reads a solid flo. Wtf? 🤷♂️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyBondy Posted September 10, 2022 Report Share Posted September 10, 2022 Why did this conversation end before anyone posted a solution? I have exactly the same issue on a Beachcomber, heats to temp and then FL (solid) error and system is locked until power reset. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacGuyver Posted September 11, 2022 Report Share Posted September 11, 2022 I’m so stumped at this point. I’ve bypassed the flo sensor and it still goes into flo error. If I raise the temp right after I turn on power it continues to run until it reaches the set temp then it goes into flo error. Another weird thing is it will go into flo error even while the flow sensor contacts are closed and the circulation pump is running. maybe it’s the temperature sensor in the filter box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
In Hot Water Posted September 12, 2022 Report Share Posted September 12, 2022 For the Sundance, Check the wiring at the Sensor and Flow Switch Connector. For the Beachcomber, Your flow device may be sticking. If it's a pressure switch, Tap it when you get the fault. If it's a flow switch, then have the wires ready to disconnect from the switch during the fault. If it's a Heater Chamber with 2 sensors, then they may have gone bad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacGuyver Posted September 14, 2022 Report Share Posted September 14, 2022 Thanks for getting back, for some reason I’m not getting email notifications even though I set it up. As an electrician by trade the first thing I do for troubleshooting anything is check for loose wiring, bad wiring and continuity between switches and sensors. Everything in those departments is A-OK. The only thing I haven’t checked is the temperature sensor inside the filter compartment. Is it possible that may be the issue here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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