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Hot tub heated to 104, then stopped heating, then started and now stopped heating all together.


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Details: 2001 Cal Spa Genesis 110v

Last week I installed a new 1.5 hp hydromaster motor/pump with new unions, new flow switch, new Clear Blue Ionizer and a new filter

When I first turned it on, it heated to 104. The next day I went out and it was 100 and the heater light wasn't on but the water was circulating as if it were heating. I got in and ran the pump on hi and adjusted the temp.  When I turned the jets off the heater turned on, but the next morning it was off again. I unplugged it and it didn't heat when restarted. Pump is running, as it would when it is heating.

I cleaned the filter, ran it without the filter, cleaned the in tub strainers, checked for air lock, adjusted the switch, disconnected the switch and still, it won't heat.  I also ran a jumper wire between the flow switch connections and got the FL code.  Reconnected the switch  and no code. The cover is keeping the heat in really well, so I don't think it's losing heat and can't keep up.

Any ideas on next steps are greatly appreciated!

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On 2/19/2021 at 7:01 PM, RDspaguy said:

Post a pic of the equipment area, circuit board, and wiring diagram.

Does your heater have a manual high limit reset?

Thanks for looking at this.  I believe I found the limit switch on the backside of the intake, but it is not a button, rather a long metal tube. It slides freely in and out of the housing, but is blocked from removal by the union.  Should it be able to move freely and is there a way to test it?

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Ohhhh!!! You've got a blue pvc Cal spa! Have the leaks been fixed? Does it have a dually pump? No, wiring diagram shows 2 pumps. 

Are there any errors on the topside? Do you have it in economy mode?

Do you have white golfball sized switches with blue covers at the intake of the pumps? 

The thing you marked is a sensor, not a manual switch. It would be a button sticking through the side of the heater box.

Do you have a multimeter? Check voltage to the spa and heater after it has stopped heating.

 

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On 2/23/2021 at 12:53 AM, RDspaguy said:

Ohhhh!!! You've got a blue pvc Cal spa! Have the leaks been fixed? Does it have a dually pump? No, wiring diagram shows 2 pumps. 

Are there any errors on the topside? Do you have it in economy mode?

Do you have white golfball sized switches with blue covers at the intake of the pumps? 

The thing you marked is a sensor, not a manual switch. It would be a button sticking through the side of the heater box.

Do you have a multimeter? Check voltage to the spa and heater after it has stopped heating.

 

The way you say Ohhhh!!! makes me think this is a notorious hot tub and not in a good way.  I bought it from a local dealer that refurbs hot tubs about seven years ago and never had a leak and until recently, the only problem it ever had was a bad flow switch.

It was retrofitted to 120 and has a 2 speed pump, rather than two.  Also no blower.

I initially got the F2 error when I restarted it, but haven't gotten it since.

I don't have the golf ball sized switch you asked about and attached a picture of the intake and the heater.  The heater doesn't have a switch anywhere and I checked the resistance on it with the multimeter and it read 11.1.  Voltage to the heater red 0!  It's the board, right?  I know you're going to say it's the board!

The voltage on the spa is right on at 124.

Thanks for all of your help on this!!20210225_133804.thumb.jpg.e542ba1b38dadcf807364599258121d3.jpg

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OHHHHHH you have one of those Cal Spas...Fire Danger!! See video (I have seen what he describes in the Video). Try disconnecting the heater from the board and test the 120V power off the board without that heater hooked up. Make sure the spa is calling for heat when you test. The element on these is wrapped around the outside of the heater tube and does not come into contact with the water so they won't trip like a traditional heater when they fail. These packs can be a bit of a bugger to diagnose sometimes ( Safety Suction Switches) and yours being swapped to 120V doesn't help as I don't think that pack was designed that way but I could be wrong if you are going on 7 years. 

Was the original pump rated 120V or 240V? is the new pump 120 or 240?

If you end up having to replace the heater you may want to consider switching to this one...See Video and links for part. 

https://www.spadepot.com/Cal-Spas-XL-Spa-Heater-Assembly-Replacement-P2181

Important: https://www.spadepot.com/docs/BX5952-TCO-information.pdf

 

 

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1 hour ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

OHHHHHH you have one of those Cal Spas...Fire Danger!! See video (I have seen what he describes in the Video). Try disconnecting the heater from the board and test the 120V power off the board without that heater hooked up. Make sure the spa is calling for heat when you test. The element on these is wrapped around the outside of the heater tube and does not come into contact with the water so they won't trip like a traditional heater when they fail. These packs can be a bit of a bugger to diagnose sometimes ( Safety Suction Switches) and yours being swapped to 120V doesn't help as I don't think that pack was designed that way but I could be wrong if you are going on 7 years. 

Was the original pump rated 120V or 240V? is the new pump 120 or 240?

If you end up having to replace the heater you may want to consider switching to this one...See Video and links for part. 

https://www.spadepot.com/Cal-Spas-XL-Spa-Heater-Assembly-Replacement-P2181

Important: https://www.spadepot.com/docs/BX5952-TCO-information.pdf

 

 

You know what's funny, or actually not funny, is that I bought it from that guy in the video!!

It had a 2 speed 120v pump and I replaced it with the same.  The pump is running fine, hi/lo jets good, ionizer is ionizing.

Voltage coming in on the board with the heater disconnected is: 120v 

Voltage on the board at the heater connection, with heater disconnected is 9.86v

I can't be certain that is is calling for heat because the 'heating' light is off.  The pump kicks on at low speed as it would to heat and is set to 100 with a current temp of 78.

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It looks like the safety suctions have been removed/plugged.

I like how he says, several times, that this and that are in "series-parallel", as if they can be both. 

25 minutes ago, Ehren said:

can't be certain that is is calling for heat

With low speed pump running, turn temp down below actual temp and you should hear the heater relay click off. Then click back on when you raise temp. 

3 hours ago, Ehren said:

notorious hot tub and not in a good way. 

Blue and red pvc, in my experience, tends to split at bends and leak. I have repaired many. One is responsible for my back issues, in fact.

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On 2/25/2021 at 5:56 PM, RDspaguy said:

With low speed pump running, turn temp down below actual temp and you should hear the heater relay click off. Then click back on when you raise temp. 

the temp is currently at 72, so I can't set it below to try and get the relay to click.  Could it be the relay?

Does this seem like a board problem?  I'm almost at the point where I just buy a new control and heater.  

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Yes, it seems like a board problem, assuming it is not turning it off due to a flow or sensor issue. It should be showing an error if so. 

I would guess it's a burned out relay on the board. Pull the board and check the back for burns or dark spots. Post a pic.

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