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I have a Balboa 2000 LE controller with a 52320 circuit that suffered a terminal block failure.  

https://photos.app.goo.gl/j3MgQsKx99pRfJSy8

The board was working but tripping a breaker and visibly arcing, and the block fell apart when I unscrewed the connectors.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Vq7NwoYDANVFMeYL6

The part does not seem to be available, so I was looking for advice on repairing it.  A 5 circuit version is available, though I don't know if I could cut the connectors off and have the screws line up.

https://spacare.com/5position50ampterminalstrip.aspx

Also, a post from 2011 mentioned making pigtails to connect the power wires directly to the board.   

https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/34037-circuit-board-fire/&tab=comments#comment-144069

Board replacement isn't necessary! If its the black connection, then locate the tabs that have "black AC" written around them. Pull the black wire out of its burned block, attach a "pig tail to this wire and spade connector on the end of the tail (s) and plug them into black AC tabs and your off and running again.

Where would the white an red connections need to go?

Thanks,

Louis

 

 

 

 

tubboard1.jpg

tubboard.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

In case anyone finds this thread the part did not fit, either on the power posts or the screws.  This looks like it would if you desoldered the posts 

https://hottubpartsofamerica.com/copy-of-relay-zettler-t-90-type-spst-15vdc-coil/

but I never found it and just made pigtails as described in the post above.    I have working pumps and no errors now, but no voltage to my heater.  

balboa_pigtails.jpg

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I'm not sure where to look so see if the relays are closed or am just too blind, but I read 120v on both high limit relay tabs when power is on, 120v and 0v on the heater relay tabs when the power is on but heater is off in startup, and 120v on both heater relay tabs when the heater light is on.  I did notice the light goes off and the multimeter goes to 0 when I turn on the high speed jets to pump 1 or the jets on pump 2, which I had never noticed.  Any chance this is a bad heater element?    

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When testing a 240v circuit you will ALWAYS have 120v to ground. Test the equipment connections for 240v. One tester lead on each heater terminal, or pump hi/low to pump common (white). Your test means nothing. You may have a bad element, or a bad relay.

On each relay there is a hinged paddle with the "points" that will move when the relay coil creates a magnetic field and pulls it closed. They only move about 1/8th inch, but you can see it if you look closely by the black plastic square on the corner of the relay.

You can test the element with power off by taking a resistance reading across the heater, but a voltage test will also tell you if the relays are working with the heater light on.

1 hour ago, LouisInUtah said:

read 120v on both high limit relay tabs when power is on, 120v and 0v on the heater relay tabs when the power is on but heater is off in startup, and 120v on both heater relay tabs when the heater light is on. 

This does suggest a burned out element, but test it properly to be sure.

1 hour ago, LouisInUtah said:

did notice the light goes off and the multimeter goes to 0 when I turn on the high speed jets to pump 1 or the jets on pump 2, which I had never noticed

This is normal and necessary to operate the spa on only 40 or 50 amps. It has to turn off the heater to have the power to run the pumps on high.

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Thanks.  Being a software guy I made a last ditch effort at moving a few pigtail connections around in ways I wouldn't think would make any difference rebooted, and now I have voltage and heat.  Machine Leaning works the same way.  I had the board back in before connecting the pigtails and never checked that the tabs were all connected.  Below is what worked and is still working 15 hours later.   

finalbalboa1.jpg

 

finalbalboa2.jpg

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