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Slimy surface is usually bacterial and will not always product CC. From all the stuff the purges have removed I suspect that the spa was stores for a long time without being drained. You might want to consider nuking it with bleach. This means adding enough bleach to get your FC up to about 50 ppm (36 oz of 6% laundry bleach for a 350 gallon tub), leaving the spa uncovered, and circulating the water until the chlorine level drops below 10 ppm. Turn the heater down or off and don' use the spa until the chlorine level is below 10 ppm. You won't be able to test this level of chlorine with either FAS-DPD or with DPD, both will bleach out. You need an OTO test (K-1000). The OTO will be orange to red/brown at this high a chlorine level. Once it gives you a yellow color, even a deep yellow, the chlorine should be low enough to switch to FAS-DPD testing.

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shocking to 10 times the cc to reach breakpoint is one of the fallacies still being taught to CPOs. Here is a quote that you might find interesting: "To oxidize monochloramine, it takes from 0.5

What test kit are you using?  I do it old school. I use only liquid chlorine amd I add CYA with stabilizer powder. Once you get 30cya just focus on FC levels. Ph down ahould bring it in range easily a

Hello DayDay1:  The purges you performed on your hot tub will now start paying you dividends.  The people that make postings on this forum are a godsend to new hot tub and pool owners.  You did the ri

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I have already nuked it once but I only left it in there for two hours while running the pumps as many times as I could over that two hours. I am just going to keep doing Ah-some until no more **** comes out. However long that takes. Definitely a pain in the butt. 

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8 minutes ago, dayday1 said:

have already nuked it once but I only left it in there for two hours while running the pumps as many times as I could over that two hours.

Then you haven't nuked it.

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