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Damaged Wiring Harness Heater to Control Board Replace Cable or Spa Pack?


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I think I ran our SPA too low on water and did some damage. The display of the top side control has been broken for years, we've been able to use the spa with no visual feedback. I noticed the SPA was low and mean to top off with water. Was running all day and when I came out the next morning tub was cold 78 F vs the normal 104 F. 

I've cleaned and replace the filter twice. Reset a few times to no avail. Held at 78 F for past few days. Today I investigated the heating element and it's registered 12 Ohm on the MultiMeter so I assume the element is still good and that is not the issue . Following the wire back to the control panel it's damaged (fried). Not sure if this is new or old damage but as a precaution I removed the harness. 

My concern now is best approach to get the SPA back up and running, we are in Montana so nights are cold, I'm worried about freeze damage and wondering if it would be best to try and keep the tub warm or just do a through job draining the next warm day. 

AcuraSpas has priced a replacement SpaPack, Heater, and topside for $600 which seems like the way to go. I'm tempted to try and find a replacement harness and seem how much longer I can get the tub to hobble along. It's a 10 years old and not sure how many more seasons we will get out of it.

Mountain Spas Tub

Azure Plus Control Panel i200

Any help, suggestions on repairs, or leads on where to find wiring harness would be a greatly appreciate. 

Thank you!

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Here is what I would do...Test the heater connection for 240V at the board (make sure spa is calling for heat) without the female end connector attached. I think the middle tab is empty and not a needed connection and just the top and bottom tabs should have power but I am basing that on how a similar a Balboa Board quick heater connect looks like. If you get 240V off the board then the board is good. I suspect it won't have full power off the board. If you don't have full power off the circuit board then you will have to pull the board and take it to an electronics repair professional and have them replace the relays (replace all relays now and freshen up the 10yr old board) 

If you get 240V off the board discard the male end connector coming from the heater and redo the wires with spade connectors and attach the wires to the male end tabs/circuit board. 

As it is a 10 year old spa and the topside is not working it might be time to replace everything as a package.

What country are you located? 

I would look for a Balboa replacement but we would need to know more about number of pumps, Circ pump/no circ pump etc.

Also a pic of the current topside so we can see how big it is and if you will need a block out/filler plate to fit a smaller topside if needed. @RDspaguy anything to add and any links for a Balboa system if they are located in the US.

Post a pic of the schematic on the inside cover of the spa pack and that will tell us what you need.

Let us know results

 

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44 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Here is what I would do...Test the heater connection for 240V at the board (make sure spa is calling for heat) without the female end connector attached. I think the middle tab is empty and not a needed connection and just the top and bottom tabs should have power but I am basing that on how a similar a Balboa Board quick heater connect looks like. If you get 240V off the board then the board is good. I suspect it won't have full power off the board. If you don't have full power off the circuit board then you will have to pull the board and take it to an electronics repair professional and have them replace the relays (replace all relays now and freshen up the 10yr old board) 

If you get 240V off the board discard the male end connector coming from the heater and redo the wires with spade connectors and attach the wires to the male end tabs/circuit board. 

As it is a 10 year old spa and the topside is not working it might be time to replace everything as a package.

What country are you located? 

I would look for a Balboa replacement but we would need to know more about number of pumps, Circ pump/no circ pump etc.

Also a pic of the current topside so we can see how big it is and if you will need a block out/filler plate to fit a smaller topside if needed. @RDspaguy anything to add and any links for a Balboa system if they are located in the US.

Post a pic of the schematic on the inside cover of the spa pack and that will tell us what you need.

Let us know results

 

Thanks for the detailed response and help!

Attached a wiring diagram. I believe I only have 1 pump and 1 blower. Pics and schematic attached. 

I am located in the USA (Montana). I will test the board and hope it has power. Also will check into Balboa replacements. As I came across https://www.acuraspa.com first and they considering a full swap 10 yr old system. Would be thrilled if we could get through the the winter without doing that. 

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20210103_Newport Controls Hot Tub Wiring Diagram.pdf

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Well, I don't think much of Acura, just for the record. Haven't seen anything of theirs in years, so maybe they have improved, but I wouldn't buy one. I definitely prefer balboa. 

https://www.spadepot.com/Balboa-VS-Spa-Control-Kit-P3185

Just fill in the blanks.

I agree with @CanadianSpaTechthat the relay is likely damaged, I think I can see the burnt circuit through the board. Pull the board and see.

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Thank you so much for the help @RDspaguy and @CanadianSpaTech! With your assistance I was able to troubleshoot and get the everything back up and running. Getting full voltage of the terminals, some electronics and a wire brush cleaning restored the power. 

Planning to order the Balboa kit you recommended today. The Acura kits look nice but I am haven't been able to find much about them outside of their website. They look nice and well built but I am concerned about availability of parts and in my case I'm not sure I can justify the extra upfront cost. 

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