Micheal_Smyth Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 (edited) Hello. First time posting but have spent a lot of time over the last day reading. Lots of product expertise here, so I hope you all can assist. I received a free hot tub from a friend who purchased a house and wanted to pass a tub that came with the house along to someone who would use it. It is a very well maintained Solana X (Model number X1D1677) manufactured 1st quarter of 2002. I spoke to the original owner who said it had been his since new and had taken good care of it. However, he did document the same problem I am experiencing during his last year of ownership, lack of adequate temperature. Once I got the tub home, I did a system cleaning and implemented a Cleanwater Blue chemical pack that worked quite well. I should note the tub is set up for 115v 15amp. Everything appears to be operating correctly (two-speed pump, heating cycle, etc.) but the tub does not come up to a decent operating water temperature. Even at its highest setting, the water is never hotter than 99.5 degrees measured with a digital thermometer. The tub appears to run though correct heat cycles (heater/circulation pump on and off). The tub display shows a consistent three blinking LED display that indicate a flow problem. I have replaced the pressure switch with no effect. If the tub is running on a heat cycle with the control panel set at a high temperature, I can back the temperature reading on the control panel to below 99 degrees and the heating cycle shuts off. I've attached some pictures of the circuit board and model numbers. Thanks in advance for all the help. Worst case I think I can justify a new spa pack if necessary based on the condition of the tub, but wanted to try troubleshooting first. The previous owner had the pump replaced in 2016 or 17. Mike Edited December 30, 2020 by Micheal_Smyth Added text. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 Hey @CanadianSpaTech, it's a watkins with a gecko pack! Who knew? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 4 hours ago, RDspaguy said: Hey @CanadianSpaTech, it's a watkins with a gecko pack! Who knew? Cleanest I've ever seen! Was the heater element recently replaced? If you have a 3 dot code AND a red LED light on the circuit board (as seen in photo) it is a high limit indicator. The high limit sensor is the silver tape at the lower right hand side of the circuit board and it goes from the circuit board and slides in on top of the heater barrel. Some are detachable and some are not and fixed to the board. If it is fixed to the board and needs replacing you might have to take it to a circuit board repair professional or replace the circuit board. What I have seen happen is that the heater element might have shifted (or improperly installed) and is touching the side wall of the heater barrel creating a hot spot by where the high limit is sitting. With the spa calling for heat for a minute or 2.. touch the heater barrel on the left hand side to get a sense of how it should feel and then touch it on the right around the area of the high limit sensor and see if it is hotter. If it is or you are unsure then remove the heater tube from the spa and have a look inside to ensure that the heater element is sitting centered in the tube and not touching the sides of the tube. When removing the 2 3/8" nuts from the heater element make sure to hold the nut below the copper/metal tabs with a 1/4" wrench while removing the 3/8" nut above so you don't break the cold weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 @Micheal_Smyth please tell me there is a GFCI at the other end of the yellow power cord.. looks homemade Gecko S- Class Service manual here: https://issuu.com/geckomkt/docs/s_class_techbook_en Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micheal_Smyth Posted December 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 1 minute ago, CanadianSpaTech said: Cleanest I've ever seen! Was the heater element recently replaced? If you have a 3 dot code AND a red LED light on the circuit board (as seen in photo) it is a high limit indicator. The high limit sensor is the silver tape at the lower right hand side of the circuit board and it goes from the circuit board and slides in on top of the heater barrel. Some are detachable and some are not and fixed to the board. If it is fixed to the board and needs replacing you might have to take it to a circuit board repair professional or replace the circuit board. What I have seen happen is that the heater element might have shifted (or improperly installed) and is touching the side wall of the heater barrel creating a hot spot by where the high limit is sitting. With the spa calling for heat for a minute or 2.. touch the heater barrel on the left hand side to get a sense of how it should feel and then touch it on the right around the area of the high limit sensor and see if it is hotter. If it is or you are unsure then remove the heater tube from the spa and have a look inside to ensure that the heater element is sitting centered in the tube and not touching the sides of the tube. When removing the 2 3/8" nuts from the heater element make sure to hold the nut below the copper/metal tabs with a 1/4" wrench while removing the 3/8" nut above so you don't break the cold weld. Wow. Thanks for the advice. I'll be running through this procedure in the morning and be back for an update for the board's "body of knowledge". Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micheal_Smyth Posted December 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 15 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said: @Micheal_Smyth please tell me there is a GFCI at the other end of the yellow power cord.. looks homemade Gecko S- Class Service manual here: https://issuu.com/geckomkt/docs/s_class_techbook_en The cord was installed by the previous owner's electrician and does not have a GFCI in the cord itself, but I do have it plugged into a 15 amp GFCI outlet. Is that adequate or should I invest into a 15 amp cord that contains a GFCI? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 4 hours ago, Micheal_Smyth said: Wow. I get that a lot 🙃 4 hours ago, Micheal_Smyth said: Is that adequate or should I invest into a 15 amp cord that contains a GFCI? As long as there is one. Safety never takes a holiday. Let us know results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micheal_Smyth Posted December 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 Got a bit of snow last night and today here in Northern West Virginia, so it may be a day or so till I get cooperative weather for a disassembly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micheal_Smyth Posted January 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 The good news: Went out in the freezing snow this morning and tool the panel off to access the spa pack and the heater. I let the tub cycle for four or five minutes and the temperature at both ends of the heater were the same as the heater right next to the high limit sensor so the heater element appears to be aligned correctly. The bad news: My board has the sensor soldered directly to the circuit board. I did some quick Googling and found that the soldered sensor is no longer available, and that I need to buy the sensor that plugs in, remove the circuit board plug, and solder. This will definitely wait till better weather. Is my approach the sound one? I do plan on keeping this unit for an extended period of time (no plan for an upgrade) and want to make it as reliable as possible. Should I replace the sensor or just look at a new spa pack? Purchase a new circuit board (if available) that utilizes the plug-in high limit sensor? Right now I'm into this tub for exactly the cost of a pressure sensor and I would feel ok in investing in whatever it takes to make it reliable. If the board thinks a new spa pack is the logical choice, what is a good recommendation? Thanks again. Edit: If I need to purchase or send off the board for repair, I would gladly send the work or purchase to contributing members of this community. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 I'll leave the final say to @CanadianSpaTech,as he is the acknowledged gecko guru and will be much more able to advise you on repairing those systems. I am a fan of balboa controls, and the swap-out would be easy and cost about $400 US and gets you a new heater, sensors, and topside. I think the gecko is a bit more here, but still an easy swap (obviously) and a good investment in a tub you want to have for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 On 1/1/2021 at 10:24 AM, Micheal_Smyth said: Should I replace the sensor or just look at a new spa pack If you can find a good electronics repair person locally then make the repair. Likely around $60 for the sensor and a bit of time to remove the old one and install the new one. You can DIY it if you have some basic skills...I send mine out...lol I would still remove the heater tube and have a look inside to visually verify that the element is not hot spotting the hi limit On 12/30/2020 at 6:01 PM, CanadianSpaTech said: When removing the 2 3/8" nuts from the heater element make sure to hold the nut below the copper/metal tabs with a 1/4" wrench while removing the 3/8" nut above so you don't break the cold weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micheal_Smyth Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 22 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said: If you can find a good electronics repair person locally then make the repair. Likely around $60 for the sensor and a bit of time to remove the old one and install the new one. You can DIY it if you have some basic skills...I send mine out...lol I would still remove the heater tube and have a look inside to visually verify that the element is not hot spotting the hi limit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micheal_Smyth Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 I've got the sensor ordered and will find a local electronics tech to do the soldering on the board. I'll keep everyone updated as to the status of the project and I thank everyone again for the support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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