gwood312 Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 I bought a house in Walnut Creek, California with a 2006 Jacuzzi J-325 hot tub. I wanted to shut it down for the winter so I drained the tub. The instructions then say to pull the smaller drain plug off the pump to let an additional gallon of water out. Well, I finally found that drain plug but it is down under some larger pipes and there is no way to get a grip on it. It is not coming off. The larger (white) plumbing pipes are secured to the pump by round grey fittings but I couldn't make them budge either. First question is, do I really need to drain the water from the pump? The temp gets to 38 degrees regularly and maybe gets to 32 once or twice a winter. Second question, is there any way I can use my shop vac to suck the water out from one of the jets or something? Any help is appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 Are you sure you want to shut it down? Unless you are not able to be there to maintain the spa I do not recommend shutting it down. One of the worst things you can do to a spa is to remove the water for an extended period of time. When you remove the water the air can now get at anything metal (heater element) and the seals around the jets will deteriorate and shrink. Hot Tubs like to be hot and running. It keeps everything warm and supple. Look at it this way the cost of one repair will override any hydro savings. Now having said all that if you are going to shut it down you need to get ALL the water removed from the spa. To properly winterize a spa you need the right tools for the job. I use a Wet/dry/Blower shop vac. It is also handy to buy an oil filter wrench $10 https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-W114083A-Oil-Filter-Pliers/dp/B07H4PB5QM/ref=zg_bs_15708821_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AV67TYNVYBKCXTFTTEN7 To loosen the couplers attached to the pumps. First I will drain the water out of the spa and shop vac up anything remaining in the bottom. Next I remove the large diverter caps that are used to shift the water from one area to another when running and I will use the blower attachment to blow out the plumbing. I will also do this to the waterfall on/off diverter to get the water out of the waterfall lines. PRO TIP: Remove the diverter valve assembly from the spa and then remove the 2 o-rings from the diverter "post" and reinsert it back into the plumbing upside down. You can now block off the bottom line as well as one side of the 3 way valve. Give it a spin and block off the other side. Remove it all together and blow out the bottom line. This allows you to get more blower power to each line of the 3 way valve. Biggest mistake I see is not blowing out the waterfall line as it is often overlooked. Now that I have blown out MOST of the water I will go around each jet and suck out each jet line. This will help remove any water in the air injection lines Next I will disconnect the plumbing from the pumps and suck out each plumbing line as well as the pump wet ends. I will then suck any remaining water from the main drain line. Some spas may have a one way check valve installed in the plumbing and it is important to get the water out from both sides of the valve. This is another common mistake I see from not only home owners but also "professionals" To ensure that I get the water out from both sides of the check valve I will remove the large pump return covers in the foot well and suck out any water that is left. Finally I will spray down all the surfaces of the spa and underside of the cover with a mold inhibitor spray. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Concrobium-32-oz-Mold-Control-025326/100654126 I also recommend the use of a cover cap https://www.amazon.ca/Cover-Prevent-Snow-rain-dust/dp/B077YDC3HG This will prevent any water from getting back into the spa during the shut down time. The regular covers still allow water to get past it and back into the spa. I see adverts for winterizing as low as $99 and IMO you will get a $99 job. It will take a minimum 3 hours to properly do the job. A lot of people will add RV antifreeze to the lines...if the job is done properly there should be no need for antifreeze. Just makes a mess on start up and it will increase mold due to moisture. I say keep it running if possible but if you can't just remember cracked manifold repairs usually start at around $1000. Good Luck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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