jimmythegreek Posted November 21, 2020 Report Share Posted November 21, 2020 So my hotsprings limelight has been solid since the overhaul of the lighting system in july. I foamed it all back in and redid the cabinet for now. Its new to me and pumps and heater are newer, it's a 2012. Im in NJ and it's getting colder and we are using it less and less. By December I dont see the family going in at all until spring. My worry is I'm so busy I dont check on it all week. Tonight I checked after a full week of not peeking under the lid. I worry heater or circ pump will fail and it will freeze up and create a nightmare repair. I'm a PB and I deal with enough water everyday i dont need extra drama at home. Kind of a waste of electricity to sit, not a big deal tho. What's the consensus on operating or winterizing for non use in the winter. Thanx for input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted November 21, 2020 Report Share Posted November 21, 2020 Personally I am against Winterizing and always try to talk customers out of it. When you take the water out of a spa the air gets at everything...seals will shrink, anything metal will rust and if ALL the water is not removed you are in for costly repairs. RV antifreeze makes a mess as well. Some spas have one way check valves inline in the plumbing and if you don't get the water from both sides of it you WILL have cracked plumbing. As a tech if I perform a Winterize and the cover blows open half way through Winter, fills with snow, thaws and refreezes then cracks plumbing Who's responsible? sure as F not me so I just don't do it anymore. Not worth the hassle. Then there is the cost.. Some folks say they want to save money on hydro. If you have to pay someone to do it you are looking at $150 - $300 in the fall and another $$$ to reopen it in the Spring so how much are you really saving. Pro Tip: Remove the diverter body from the housing and remove the o-rings then place it back into the housing upside down and you can then use your blower vac to force air into each line individually. Blow out one side give it a turn and blow out the other side. I have 3 customers that (use to but not this Year) go South to Florida for the Winter and it is quicker and easier (for me) to just go and remove the spa and bring it into heated storage/garage than it is to spend hours trying to suck and blow out lines...they are portable after all...lol Also if you do Winterize make sure to use a mold inhibitor spray on all the surfaces, pillows and the underside of the cover to prevent nasty mold from occurring. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Concrobium-32-oz-Mold-Control-025326/100654126 I also recommend using a cover cap to prevent water from getting back into the spa during winter. https://www.amazon.ca/Cover-Guard-Hot-Tub-Protector/dp/B00IUTVOSA 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cusser Posted November 21, 2020 Report Share Posted November 21, 2020 I'm in Arizona, and I "summerize" mine. I put the pump on timer for about an hour a day, and turn off the heater. For you, the opposite might be to heat to like 45F degrees; you won't use much electricity or sanitizer at that temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted November 21, 2020 Report Share Posted November 21, 2020 9 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said: Some spas have one way check valves inline in the plumbing Hot springs has ALOT. They feed jet lines from both sides off the diverter with various check valves inline to change which are working when. It's a fairly complex system. Here's one I cut out of the freeze damaged tub I am working on now. Here's another bottom left beneath the new coupling. I'd guess there are at least 9-12 in there. I can see 6 with the work I've done so far on this one. 9 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said: Blow out one side give it a turn and blow out the other side. Hot springs uses the "smartjet" diverter, which typically has 6 ports and multiple positions. I would not recommend this for a hot springs. I would plug off all but 1 jet filter inlet (white standpipes) and blow through the last, using the diverter to blow out each line. HS also has "plumbing drains", small 3/8 hoses barbed off of low points to drain the pipes. Usually the left drain port. They are a great idea but unfortunately can pinch, shift, or clog and leave you with a surprise come spring. Here's one. @jimmythegreek, I would leave it running. Cheaper and safer that way. Nobody (not even me 😉) will guarantee a spa winterization. Even blowing in antifreeze. In Tahoe we would run an additional 20 amp circuit to the spa, drop a plug and space heater with thermostat set low in the equipment bay in case the main breaker trips or such. Just a thought... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmythegreek Posted November 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 Alright you talked me out of it. Not sweating the electricity just the chance something goes and its below zero out trying to make a repair. I'm gonna see about getting a remote temp sensor and the display in the house so I know water is heated. What's a god temp to leave it at for winter non use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 Low as it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.