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Watkins No Fault 240V6KW heater leaking


viperdoug

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My hot tub is a Hot Springs Portable Jetsetter (2012 I believe). I live in Arizona. Drained the spa a month ago, warm pleasant weather. Just refilled and now the heater is leaking. The heater is a Watkins No Fault 240 volt, 6 kw, model code SSE-00-OH-OF.

The heater is leaking, not from the smaller, double barrel end cap, but from the larger, square end cap behind the two threaded in sensors. Can I replace any o-rings or gaskets inside that cap. The heater works fine, don’t want to buy a whole heater if it only needs a better seal. Thanks for any help to steer me in the right direction.

032A7B16-5021-487D-AF2A-E3F817BA4239.jpeg

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  • 9 months later...
  • 3 months later...
On 11/2/2020 at 5:18 AM, Cusser said:

If mine, I'd definitely try to take it apart and repair/seal.  I'd even use automotive cooling system gasket/RTV in a tube, like used for thermostat outlet sealing.

Today I noticed a leak occurring on Jetsetter spa after being away for a week.  Lifted spa cover to find water level has dropped below filter gate.  Removed side panel to exposed power and heater.  Found water leaking from the smaller, double barrel end cap of the 240V6KW heater assembly. I will see what I can do for repairs but I do like your style.

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Trouble shooting found the small end cap with a sizable housing crack plus brittle rubber gaskets.  This Watkins 240V6KW heater has been functioning fine new since 2013.   I can find replacement endcaps and rubber gaskets for both ends for over $120.  The heater ohms out 10 ohms.  Should I gamble just replacing the rubber gaskets and endcaps or bring a new heater into the game at $250.  I am going with the new heater.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey y'all - I'd like to piggyback on this thread.  I've also got a Watkins 240V6KW heater and think I have the same leak as Sea4me.  Haven't removed it yet to see if I can pinpoint the crack/leak, but am hoping I can use some type of sealant or find a repair kit.  Any advice welcome...rather not shell out $400+ for a new heater, if possible.   @Sea4me - where did you find the replacement endcaps for $120?

 

TIA

Mike

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Hello Mike, the end caps are easy to locate on the www.  If you are going to do the replacement of endcaps.  Do replace both endcaps due to inner gasket fatigue becoming brittle from heat and chemicals.  The price for the set will be over $200.  The lifetime of a heater assembly is rated at around 4 years.  I replaced the small endcaps only to have the large end failed a month later due to brittle gaskets.  Backyardplus.com 805.541.9000

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  • 3 months later...

Hi,

I have Hot Springs Spa and noticed Watkens SSE-00-OH-OF leaking after re-fill following storage. Removed it and took off end caps.  Checked/cleaned off the rubber gaskets and plastic caps, as well as applying a bead of RTV silicone outside of the screw holes. One thing I found interesting was when I checked the heater elements, they looked basically brand new, no mineral build-up whatsoever.  

I figured it would be worth a try and hopefully after running with tub heated, the gaskets will expand and stop leaking, should it leak after I reinstall with cold water in the tub.  If not I guess I will buy gasket kit (s) and try that before replacing heater.

Has anyone tried this and if so, after heating did leaks stop? I will update in a few days!  

 

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  • 3 months later...

Not sure if your heater is the old style with the pressure switch.  Mine is and was leaking at the pressure switch that can be found if you remove the two screws and remove the cover.   My main board had been replaced previously and the newer board does not use the pressure switch.  I believe that you can bypass it with older boards.  Anyway, I removed the pressure switch, which is threaded in, with some needle nose pliers.  I then replaced the pressure switch with an 1/8” mpt plug with some Teflon tape. No more leak and no need to replace my heater.  Saved hundreds $$$.

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8 hours ago, cdkrek said:

 I believe that you can bypass it with older boards.

A pressure or flow switch is a safety device and prevents the heater from firing when there is little or no flow through the heater tube. If there is no flow and the switch is bypassed with the heater still connected to the board it WILL go nuclear in seconds. Never bypass a flow or pressure switch any longer than is required for testing. If bypassing to test ALWAYS disconnect the heater from the circuit board first. You can then test for power going to the heater off the board without the heater going nuclear and burning your spa/house down. 

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On 8/11/2021 at 4:28 PM, RDspaguy said:

Eventually it won't stop, and you'll need a new one. I've never had one of those apart nor heard of anyone repairing one at that end. 

I have repaired several at that end. Two Philips head screws gets the back off and then you need to install a new 73995 pressure switch with some fresh Teflon tape or equivalent. Done several this way and with the current component shortage it might be the only way to go. It’s a tight squeeze back there and I have had good success with needle nose pliers.

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  • 3 months later...

Thx for the input for leaks on both ends. My hot tub was off for a couple of weeks while it got colder. It was drained, but internal pipes weren't drained. I warmed the components before turning it back on. It came on, but is leaking from the opposite end of topic post. Assuming I need to eventually replace (bought in 2015), Hoping it will keep going until the spring so I can take it apart and see if replacing gaskets etc may work. Thanks for the tips.

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  • 4 months later...
On 8/21/2022 at 8:00 PM, cdkrek said:

Not sure if your heater is the old style with the pressure switch.  Mine is and was leaking at the pressure switch that can be found if you remove the two screws and remove the cover.   My main board had been replaced previously and the newer board does not use the pressure switch.  I believe that you can bypass it with older boards.  Anyway, I removed the pressure switch, which is threaded in, with some needle nose pliers.  I then replaced the pressure switch with an 1/8” mpt plug with some Teflon tape. No more leak and no need to replace my heater.  Saved hundreds $$$.

Was wondering where you got the plug you used?

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  • 3 months later...
On 8/22/2022 at 8:26 PM, Mike223 said:

I have repaired several at that end. Two Philips head screws gets the back off and then you need to install a new 73995 pressure switch with some fresh Teflon tape or equivalent. Done several this way and with the current component shortage it might be the only way to go. It’s a tight squeeze back there and I have had good success with needle nose pliers.

I honestly though you were crazy for replacing the switch with a new one where I though it just needed a new coat of Teflon tape so I decided to apply some and retread in the old switch and just when I was about all the way in the threads sheered from the switch. Luckily I had a screw out, screw extractor set so I was able to unthread the broken part out but lesson learned. Always buy a new switch.

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