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2005 Sundance Capri hi temp error


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OK I know this is going back and forth and the result is probable going to be the same but I like to know why.  I went to relay K1 which I do not know what controls it but it was not closed and I did drill a small hole in the top and spayed cleaner in just to satisfy my nature.  Did not work as you have said.  

I then just pulled off the crossover cable and took the black side of the 230v and went to the input side of the center (K2) relay which was suppose to be open until the temp goes below the set value.  That worked and the heater was then getting voltage.  

Does not seem like the heater puts out that much heat.  It takes about a half hour to go up one degree but maybe that is normal.  Hope the heater is OK...but again 15yrs is a long life for these electronics.

I am just letting it run to see if it gets up to my 104.  If not then ugh!!  Not sure what the K3 relay does so we will see what happens...maybe fire and explosions!!

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13 minutes ago, RDspaguy said:

I would do all 3. And if buying a $320 reman'd I would expect new pump relays as well.

Take an ohm reading on the heater to test it. It should heat faster than you said.

It actually heated fine.  I was just impatient since it was at 86 and took 30 mins to get to 87 but then about 4 hrs later it was at 110.  I will see how doing one goes as I am sure they do not take electronics back after purchased.  

Thanks for the advice...I know I am probable a pain.

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12 hours ago, RDspaguy said:

Not at all. Everyone comes here with questions, we do our best to answer them. Yours are no different than anyone else's.

Keep us posted on your repair.

Thank you for your time.  I am going to order a new relay and put it in K1.  Should be a few days.  Is there any trick other than taking pictures of the board and wiring that you advise when removing all the connections?  I do that with complex auto repairs.  I do have a print out of the wiring diagram too.

Cheers!!

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8 hours ago, RDspaguy said:

Use a good nonmagnetic screwdriver, not a screw gun. Touch the ground wire before you touch the board any time the wires are disconnected. 

Thanks...I know also the capacitors can still hold a charge.  Used to work on TV's...the old ones with vacumn tubes...and the high voltage could still be held in the Screen and you'd forget and get nailed by the connector on the side of the glass screen.  Used to have to ground the connector to the chassis to blead that charge off.  I ordered the relay and am going to pull the board and replace just the one and see how it goes.  

Hey, if nothing else it gives me a project while we all wait for the virus to leave us alone...which like the flu will really never happen but maybe they will get a decent shot to keep us all somewhat safe.  People just do not realize that our species is under attack and this maybe just a test to see if we can handle it.  As a species we sometimes act very arrogant and think we can solve anything.

Be safe and will update.

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On 10/30/2020 at 8:46 AM, wpatters1229 said:

Thanks...I know also the capacitors can still hold a charge.  Used to work on TV's...the old ones with vacumn tubes...and the high voltage could still be held in the Screen and you'd forget and get nailed by the connector on the side of the glass screen.  Used to have to ground the connector to the chassis to blead that charge off.  I ordered the relay and am going to pull the board and replace just the one and see how it goes.  

Hey, if nothing else it gives me a project while we all wait for the virus to leave us alone...which like the flu will really never happen but maybe they will get a decent shot to keep us all somewhat safe.  People just do not realize that our species is under attack and this maybe just a test to see if we can handle it.  As a species we sometimes act very arrogant and think we can solve anything.

Be safe and will update.

OK got the relay today and when I remove the board I noticed one of the leads that goes to the relay 240 v side was loose...probably from heat.  There was no burnt looking area.  I replaced the relay and now the heater is getting voltage through that relay.  I cracked open the relay...the plastic was rather brittle.  I have attached a picture as good as it can get from my phone and the contacts inside are pretty charred.  Not surprising.  Hope this project is over.  The hardest part was getting the screws back into the board without dropping them.  Next time....hopefully not, I will use my magnetic screw drivers for that.

20201031_160019.jpg

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