Heyward Posted October 19, 2020 Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 I made a mistake and purchased a used Hot Tub, now that is out of the way..The seller purchased this tub used after it was hit by lightning and he replaced The pump as well as the controller and topside control panel. Here are the details: *10 year old Solana Model SX. Ser#SX2M3213 * Tub has Lights not connected. * What appears to be a blower that Is not connected. * The recently added pump is an Executive 56 Model PF-40. 1N22M 220v * Controller Balboa LB501S 4634 Topside Panel is Leisure May G2 Series push button * The pump and controller are 220v protected by a newly installed GFI 50A disconnect * The tag inside the tub indicates it was originally designed for 115v 20 amps My Question—The controller is designed for 2 pumps I only have one. When I press the Jet switch the pump runs and the tub bubbles furiously but will only run a few minutes and the cuts off it shows error codes FLO and or DRI It also sounds as though the the waster is moving so fast that the flow slows for a few seconds to catch up. I think the pump has an air lock and I will check that. To the question, is there a way that this controller will operate with this pump, or does everything need to be replaced, or should I junk it and buy another tub. I just want a decent tub no out of this world bells and whistles this is for me and my wife. Tub size 6’x 6’ Is fine. I appreciate any all advice by the way I can take the criticism. thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted October 19, 2020 Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 Post a pic of the topside, circuit board, and diagram on the box cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyward Posted October 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 See attached photos. Keep in mind the top panel was added by the guy I purchased it from. Thank you for taking the time to reply. HM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyward Posted October 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 Here is the circuit board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 Need to see the circuit board to see how it is wired. Post Photo. Follow the white wire W1 if it goes to to the "White AC" cluster top left then the pump is wired for 115VAC and your 220VAC pump won't run properly. For a 220VAC pump to run the white W1 wire needs to go to the "Red AC" cluster bottom left just above the copper heater tabs 9 hours ago, Heyward said: * What appears to be a blower that Is not connected. Post a photo of what you think is a blower What has happened here is that the original topside failed. The topside even though it is only 10 years old it is discontinued and in order to get a "Watkins" topside you also have to replace the entire spa pack. Messed up but the way it is. So someone swapped in the used Balboa pack and topside controller. To fix the light the original is not compatible and trash but save the light reflector dish (the part that screws onto the housing fixed in the spa's side wall). You can swap it out with this: https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/balboa-light-cord-assembly-kit/ and then add this 9 LED https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/colorglo-sparkler-led-digital-spa-light/ or this 24 LED bulb: https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/colorglo-raydiance-led-digital-spa-light/ Use the original light lens reflector dish if the replacement doesn't screw on the the fixed portion mounted in the spa. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyward Posted October 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 Attached is Photo of actual circuit board as it is currently wired. By the way I opened the pump yesterday to make sure it was not air locked and water immediately leaked out no air. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 Can you post photos of the entire equipment area so we can see what you have going on. Also the little red block of switches along the bottom. The switches co-inside with the diagram on the inside of the cover labeled "Switchbank A" These switches tell the spa how to operate. They are numbered 1-10 left to right. Try it with all the switches in the down/off position. The only one that might need to go into the up position is A2. Turn power off before making the changes to the switchbank switches Let us know results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyward Posted October 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 Thanks I just happened to have a picture of the switches. I changed one switch Yesterday to read temp in centigrade to see if it Panel would respond and it did. I will send additional pictures this evening if I get home before dark. I am at the hospital with my wife today she has hip surgery. Thanks for the reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 Well, your heater is shot. Your dipswitch settings are for a 24 hour circulation pump that you don't have any wires for. And, speaking of wires, are you sure your main power wiring is correct and on a gfci breaker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyward Posted October 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 The temp of the tub increased when I turned it on but I cut it back below 100° to save energy. The power connection is correct the wire colors may indicate otherwise. I was unable to locate 6 3 with a ground so I used 6 2 and added the neutral. Hot legs are Black and White And the neutral is white and black. I live in a small town and my choices are limited on the wire. next question. What are suggestions should I buy a new tub, I learned my lesson with the used tubs. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 Set dipswitch 9 to off. From the visible corrosion on the heater I would say it's junk. Is it on a gfci breaker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyward Posted October 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 yes I installed a 50 amp GFI disconnect outside. Even if the heater is working. Is this beast salvageable. thanks Heyward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 Well after some careful thought yeah your F'd. The used pack is designed for a circulation pump system. You only have a single speed pump and that is not going to work for heating and filtering... I mean yeah it would work but not ideal and don't know what the E bill would be long term using only high speed. To fix this spa you would need to swap out the single speed for a 2 speed pump but you would have to test the female connector where you attach the pump to the board and make sure you have power to both low and high speeds coming off the circuit board before dropping cash on a 2 speed pump and new 2 speed wire for the pump will be needed as well. Your dip switches would also have to be set for non circ when testing hi and low speeds off the board. If you can get power to both hi and low then for XXX for a new pump and you should be good as far as set up goes. Sell that single speed and recoup some of the cash for the new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 Still waiting to see what you think is a blower but not connected On 10/19/2020 at 12:59 PM, Heyward said: * What appears to be a blower that Is not connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyward Posted October 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 What I thought was a blower must be something else the wires are two small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 21, 2020 Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 Thermostat for the old system that is no longer required. I recently did this swap for a flip tub but retained the original 115VAC 2 speed pump even though it is wired 220V. See if you can find a used 220V 1.5 HP 2-speed pump and sell that single speed... you might even make some $$ in the swap. Keep the high speed AMP draw below 10 AMPS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyward Posted October 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 Thanks. Hopefully the controller and heater is ok. Sounds like a plan. So the two speed pump will work with the existing controller even though it is designed for two pumps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 21, 2020 Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 2 hours ago, Heyward said: So the two speed pump will work with the existing controller even though it is designed for two pumps? Pump 2 is a non factor. But like I said earlier you need to set the dip switches for non circ and then test for both hi and low speeds coming off the circuit board to make sure a 2 speed will work. The wire connected to the board only has 3 wires for the single speed pump. You need to see if you have low and high speed power coming off the board before you spend money on a 2 speed. A 2 speed pump wire has 4 wires so the open spot on the one you have now needs to show power when the button on the topside is pushed to put it into low and then high speed. If you get power to both hi and low then a replacement 2 speed will solve your problems. Again you will also need a 2-speed pump wire (Has 4 wires) Does the moto-massage arm work all the way up and down? The spa has heated up to 100 as you mentioned so the heater works. Will likely need replacement at some point based on the look of it but that could be in a week or a year or 5 but good for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyward Posted October 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 I removed the cover on the "moto massager" the thing a ma bob moves up and down with the flow. I will further investigate the wiring and post back. I very much appreciate your assistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 21, 2020 Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 8 hours ago, Heyward said: I removed the cover on the "moto massager" the thing a ma bob moves up and down with the flow. I will further investigate the wiring and post back. I very much appreciate your assistance. Mildly confused... Is the post from Spa Depot the one that is currently in it? or is it one you want to buy? I'm going to have to say that it is way to much for your spa. I would use a 48 frame 1.5- 2HP Max 10 amp high speed draw. https://www.spadepot.com/15-HP-Spa-Pump-2-inout-Side-Discharge-48-Frame-240V-P692C690.aspx https://www.spadepot.com/2-HP-Spa-Pump-2-inout-Side-Discharge-48-Frame-240V-P693C690.aspx https://www.spadepot.com/Cord-4-Wire-AMP-14-4-P9989C182.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyward Posted October 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 The 4 Hp came with the tub. It was put on by the guy I purchased it from. I am basically trying to get the tub to work without sinking any more money in it. I am getting great assistance on this forum. I am aware that the controller is old and will need to be replaced sooner than later. It would be nice if I could find a matched pump, controller/heater and topside controller panel at a reasonable price. Thanks for your reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 22, 2020 Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 2 hours ago, Heyward said: The 4 Hp came with the tub. But is it a 2 speed?....There is a white tag on the unseen side of that motor. It will have a spot that says 2 speed RPM 3450 high and 1725 low if it has both speeds listed then you are good and just need a new 2 speed wire. Install it and you should be good although that pump is overpowered for that spa it might run fine for years or it might blow out seals or take out the moto-massager but nothing to loose I guess. That is your cheapest fix if it is a 2 speed pump to begin with. Another cheap fix would be to swap out the 4hp impeller with a 2 hp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyward Posted October 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 I looked the motor up on line see the attached info thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 22, 2020 Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 Well if you have tested for power off the board and get power both high and low speeds and that is in fact the right pump you have then just change the pump wire and it will work. Again in my opinion it is to powerful for the spa but the risk is up to you now. Enjoy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyward Posted October 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 This may answer some questions regarding the pump. I pulled of the cover to the wiring connections on the pump motor there is only connections plus the ground so this pump Executive 56 PF-40-1N22M cannot be wired for 2 speeds. I guess I will still check the controller to see if it will operate a 2 speed instead of 1 pumps. Considering the age of the controller it is probably beneficial to replace everything with the proper equipment. I would appreciate any recommendations. On a side note I did contact Balboa to get their take on the controller with one pump. They are going to call me and discuss. Thanks heyward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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