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Hot tub codes


JackieK

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Hi does anyone know what code lC stands for. I switched out my main board and the first time I restarted everything it overheated. Turned off and back on and it was heating above the temp I had set. Now it shows a code pr( which is prime if I’m not mistaking) and shows lC. Please help. 

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IC is typically for a Freeze/cold water condition and not really an error code. Did you just replace the circuit board or just the topside controller?

Post photos of the circuit board and the inside cover of the spa pack that shows the wiring diagram.

Pr is Prime mode yes and switching with IC is likely if you just filled with cold cold water.

As for the heat climbing I would say you have a flow condition that needs to be addressed. Remove filters until the issue is fixed. Remove then from the equation. Next would be to make sure you don't have an air lock in the wet end of the pump associated with heating and filtering.

Make sure to program your filter cycle and set it at F2 

Post pics and let us know results

 

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I did the whole circuit board. I will take some pictures tonight when I get from work. I did fill it up with cold water but the first time I did it the hot tub overheated. I turned everything off opened the cover then a few days later I turned it back on and due to the fact that I’m in the south and it’s been so hot I had the temp set at 86 or 85 as low as it would go and that is when it just kept climbing and the lC code came up. Right now it is still turned off. Thank you for your help. 

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33 minutes ago, JackieK said:

but the first time I did it the hot tub overheated

Did it overheat right away in seconds after turning the power on or did it take hours and went above the set temp and slowly kept climbing. 

33 minutes ago, JackieK said:

I had the temp set at 86 or 85 as low as it would go and that is when it just kept climbing and the lC code came up

Post up the photos of the board, the inside cover diagram and a pic of the entire equipment area. Need to see how the board is wired so make sure to snap photos so we can see how the board is wired.

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55 minutes ago, JackieK said:

it took hours to over heat the first time I turned it on.

Check your filter cycle duration. Should be set at F2 meaning 2 hours out of every 12 hour period. 2 hours in the AM and 2 hours in the PM or 4 hours total out of a 24 hour period. If set higher say F8 it will run for 16 hours out of a 24 hour period and the pump running for that long will heat the spa above the set temp. If it is set at FC it will filter no stop 24 hours a day.

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On 9/10/2020 at 7:56 AM, CanadianSpaTech said:

 

Check your filter cycle duration. Should be set at F2 meaning 2 hours out of every 12 hour period. 2 hours in the AM and 2 hours in the PM or 4 hours total out of a 24 hour period. If set higher say F8 it will run for 16 hours out of a 24 hour period and the pump running for that long will heat the spa above the set temp. If it is set at FC it will filter no stop 24 hours a day.

How do I set filter 

 

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On 9/5/2020 at 9:02 AM, CanadianSpaTech said:

Did it overheat right away in seconds after turning the power on or did it take hours and went above the set temp and slowly kept climbing. 

Post up the photos of the board, the inside cover diagram and a pic of the entire equipment area. Need to see how the board is wired so make sure to snap photos so we can see how the board is wired.

Posting more pictures 

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Ok here is what I see so far...

Along the bottom of the circuit board there is a red bank of little white (dip) switches. They relate to the diagram on the inside cover titled "Switchbank A" You have switch A4 in the up position and it should be in the down or "off" position. This dip switch (A4) relates to freeze protection and is very likely related to the IC code you are getting. You will also have to determine "A3" this relates to what topside control panel you have installed in the spa. A7 should coincide with the buttons on the topside controller. Turn off power to spa before changing the dip switches.

Next...The incoming power wires red and black. The black does not look all the way in and the red looks like there are wire strands the did not go into the holder and have folded back. The strands are live 240V and if they touch anything the will either short out whatever they touch and could possibly cause a fire or ZAP someone if they touch them. A better job needs to be done here.

There is a 4 wire plug going into J50 or the AV (Audio/Video) Follow that wire back and let us know where it goes. Does it go to a stereo or to a pump? It looks like a pump connector to me. In any case the 4 wire plug is for a 240V component but the white wire beside it attached to W4 is going to "White AC" J25 it looks like or maybe J63 but doesn't matter as the White AC bank of male connectors is for 120V components...Red AC bank at the bottom left is for 240V components...So if whatever is at the other end of the wire that is plugged into J50 is a 110V component the the white W4 wire should go to white ac if it is a 240V component the the white wire at W4 should go to Red AC. But before you make any changes let us know where the 4 wire plun that goes into J 50 goes and what is at the other end.

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