CanadianSpaTech Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 I see EXPORT sticker inside the control pack..What country are you in? What year is the spa? Not sure if this will help or confuse... confused me... lol.. https://www.spaguts.com/Documents/Instructions_Wiring_IQ2020_System-77271_Board-77087.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 2007 International edtion service manual here: https://studylib.net/doc/18786015/service-manual-international-edition @REA 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REA Posted September 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2020 CanadianSpaTech Im in the Uk . Not sure if age exactly but I think my model was made from 1997 onwards Thanks Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REA Posted September 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2020 RDspaguy As requested Thanks Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REA Posted September 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 RDspaguy Do I change the jumpers or get a transformer to step down the voltage thanks Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 Being an "Export" pack made for the European 240V grid I don't think there should be a 115V option. The heater is to be run 1.5kw off 240V. From the pic of the heater you posted I don't think there is a 6 kW option as there is nothing for 6 KW listed on the heater tube for 6KW. Now as far as the spa heating with the main "jet" pumps running that is likely due to the pumps heating the spa internally from the heat shedding off the motors. Main pumps should have nothing to do with the heating of the spa. Having only a 1.5 KW heater it might take 30+ hours to heat up the spa from a cold tap water start. My well water comes in at 58 degrees F and if I were to try and heat a 115V (or 240V in your case) spa at 1 KW it could take up to 40 hours to heat up to 104 degrees with the first 30 degrees taking the longest. Could it be you are just no being patient enough? If you have 240 going to the heater and circ is running with the heat indicator light on everything should be normal and working. As for the jumpers it looks like the top left in the diagram is where yours is set with jumper #3 covering 2 pins. Can't read the models (small print and blurry) in the photo you posted. See Appendix 1 in the 2007 service manual I posted earlier. The only other jumper you can change is jumper 5 to go from Fahrenheit to Celsius or visa versa. Similar "European" 1.5 KW heater specs listed here...no 6 kw option... https://spa-plus.eu/hydroquip-1-5kw-double-barrell-heater 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 Side note when trying to ask a member a question put @ in front of the members call sign for quicker response. example @RDspaguy or @REA and it will pop up on their page as a notification. Regards Kurt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REA Posted September 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 @CanadianSpaTech Thanks for the info I’ll go take a look. Thansk for the call sign tip The water gets up to 33 degrees c ok but will not raise on just circ pump. I have a new filter coming so should also help Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 Let us know results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 ????... Not sure what you would need that for. But I now understand you are not in the US, so I could be wrong about the wiring. Post the pic of the wiring diagram and I will know for sure. Post a pic of the equipment area so I can see how it is plumbed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Sorry, I didn't notice there was a page 2 of the thread. Your wiring is correct. You do not need a transformer. I agree with @CanadianSpaTech about the pump heating the water. And the timeframe for heating with a 1.5kw heater. Remove the filter. Turn off power. Check the box on the end of the heater for a reset button. Some have them, some don't, and it may be on the side facing away from you. It is usually a small rubber plug with a button behind it that does not stick out from the box. You may need a screwdriver to push it. Post results. Turn off jets and check the circulation pump terminals on the board for 240v. Then check the fuse for the circ pump in the holder beside the wiring for the circ pump. The holder is mounted facing the back of the pack so you will have to reach behind the pack to get it out. Post results. With just the circulation pump on, check for 240v at the heater connections on the board. Post results. Turn off breaker, remove heater wires from the board and test resistance (ohms) on the heater. Post results. Turn off power, unplug the sensors from the board. With ohm meter set to 20k ohms, test resistance on both sensors. Post results. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REA Posted September 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 @RDspaguy Thanks for the detail , will do after work Regards Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REA Posted September 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2020 @RDspaguy Sorry for taking so long to post , not been able to get back from work before it’s gotten dark . current temp is 30 degrees C . This was fresh water at 7pm last night at 20 degrees C - it hit 30 degrees C by 8am . No increase since . No heater reset in this heater . just circ pump give me 240v at the terminals. fuse behind the main board for the circ pump is ok . The heater terminals on the heater board are reading 240v with power on the heater itself is reading 0.16 ohms at 20k setting Temp sensor is reading 7.76 ohms High limit sensor is reading 8.48 ohms both set at 20k Will add some pics and a video IMG_7123.MOV IMG_7131.MOV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 21, 2020 Report Share Posted September 21, 2020 Ok. 1.5kw at 240v is 38.4 ohms on the heater. You will need to be in the lowest ohm setting to test that. Your sensors do seem a bit far apart, but if the lights arent flashing and the heater is on they aren't bad yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REA Posted September 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 @@RDspaguy ok so on 20k ohms setting on multimeter as yesterday- 0.15ohms on 200 ohms setting on multimeter today - - 136ohms Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REA Posted September 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2020 @RDspaguy Sorry for taking so long to post , not been able to get back from work before it’s gotten dark . current temp is 30 degrees C . This was fresh water at 7pm last night at 20 degrees C - it hit 30 degrees C by 8am . No increase since . No heater reset in this heater . just circ pump give me 240v at the terminals. fuse behind the main board for the circ pump is ok . The heater terminals on the heater board are reading 240v with power on the heater itself is reading 0.16 ohms at 20k setting Temp sensor is reading 7.76 ohms High limit sensor is reading 8.48 ohms both set at 20k Will add some pics and a video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REA Posted September 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2020 @RDspaguy ok so on 20k ohms setting on multimeter as yesterday- 0.15ohms on 200 ohms setting on multimeter today - - 136ohms thanks Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 26, 2020 Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 Ok. 20k ohm setting is for sensors. The lowest ohm setting (label varies with brand) perhaps something like >l or o))) for the heater. You should read 38.4 ohms on that heater rated 1.5kw at 240v. 136 is a bad heater, but is strange as bad heaters usually either short to ground and trip the gfci breaker (you do have a gfci breaker, right?), or burn out and have no continuity (open circuit, no ohm reading). Make sure you are disconnecting the heater from the board while testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REA Posted September 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2020 @RDspaguy The spa is connected to a circuit breaker ....this has tripped on 1 occasion only . When testing the heater is alway disconnected . pic to show the settings I have on test meter Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 28, 2020 Report Share Posted September 28, 2020 For testing the heater, use the 200 ohm mode, or the arrow and cross if it shows a numerical reading in that setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REA Posted September 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2020 @RDspaguy tested again on 200 - 136 ohms tested on arrow with cross- 139 ohms thanks Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 29, 2020 Report Share Posted September 29, 2020 Thats a bad heater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REA Posted September 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2020 @RDspaguy Ok suspected as much . I’m not convinced the heater in our hot tub was new when put in . Do I replace with a like for like replacement or can I upgrade the heater ? will upgrading cause any issues with either boards ? In your experience is it best to go for a genuine part or are the generic ones any good ? Thank you for your help with all of this Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 29, 2020 Report Share Posted September 29, 2020 You won't find a generic. Your best bet is to replace with what it has. Trying to get a higher kw or different shape will both have problems to be dealt with. If you can't find that heater then we will have to make something else work, but then you are talking chevy parts in a ford. It's going to need some creative adapting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REA Posted September 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2020 @RDspaguy Thank you for quick reply . Ill do some searching see what I can find . thanks Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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