Brian Slone Posted August 18, 2020 Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 I got a used hot springs prodigy H from someone. I finished hooking it up yesterday and filled it through the filter housing with a hose. It ran perfectly fine, heated, jets all ran fine. I put system flush in to clean out the jets since it had been sitting. I then drained the water out. When I refilled it, I thought it would be smart to siphon water through a hose from my pool so it would start out clean, I did put it into the filter housing, but slow flow with the siphon. When I powered up the spa again, you could hear the spa start up then it stopped and the control panel red light started flashing and nothing was operative anymore. I turned the power off overnight, took the gray standpipe out, put a hose down in the hole and covered with a rag around the hose, turned the hose on and it forced a big air bubble out the bottom return and I let that water run for about 30 seconds. Put pipe and filter back in and turned on power and it still blinks red, now it doesn't even sound like it tries anything, it will start blinking within 5-10 seconds. I don't think my heater has a reset button, I couldn't find it anyway. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted August 18, 2020 Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 Check your flow, you may still have an airlock. Give the circulation pump a shake. Check the return flow of bubbles from the footwell jet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Slone Posted August 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 1 hour ago, RDspaguy said: Check your flow, you may still have an airlock. Give the circulation pump a shake. Check the return flow of bubbles from the footwell jet. Thanks, I'll try that when I get home. Would draining it again and refilling it the proper way with a garden hose clear the air lock if there is still one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted August 18, 2020 Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 Yes, but it's not necessary. If it comes to it you can unhook one of the hoses on the circ pump and bleed it that way. You'll get a little wet, but keep most of the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
castletonia Posted August 18, 2020 Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 Also, if the hot tub is in protection mode, you need to turn the power off for at least 30 seconds to clear the error code. If it is an airlock, you can also try taking the hose and placing it near the floor drain where bubbles should come out and turn the hose on. The backwards pressure may help burp the air bubble. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Slone Posted August 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 After shaking the pump and seeing bubbles still,, I drained about 2 inches out and took out the standpipe. Put it in with rag around again and held it there till it filled back up. The water started flowing through the return in the filter area so it should have cleared it all. But still doing the same. The whole spa is shut down, circulation pump not running, nothing. It was working fine before the jet clean, drain, refill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted August 18, 2020 Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 The flashing lights indicate a high temp reading at the heater. This is usually the result of low flow from a dirty filter or airlock, but can be a faulty circulation pump, sensor, or even circuit board. If you have verified that you have strong flow from both returns and a steady stream of tiny bubbles from the footwell, it's time to test the sensors (thermistors). Do you own a multimeter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Slone Posted August 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 I do have a multimeter. The spa is entirely inoperative however. Nothing is running. Just the flashing light. The control panel itself is blank. The only signs of power is the blinking light and the light above the control panel lights up. It was fine until the drain refill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Slone Posted August 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 I verified all air pockets are removed by pushing water through with the hose but the pump is not running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted August 19, 2020 Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 The pump doesn't run at all? Check voltage to the circ pump. Post a pic of the circuit board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Slone Posted August 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 15 minutes ago, RDspaguy said: The pump doesn't run at all? Check voltage to the circ pump. Post a pic of the circuit board. Its an IQ2020 I will get a pic tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted August 19, 2020 Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 @RDspaguy check that circ pump fuse if it has it. We'll see if it has it in the pics when posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Slone Posted August 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 here is the pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted August 19, 2020 Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 Did you check voltage to the circ pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Slone Posted August 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 Not sure I did it right. It read zero. With power off I took off black and white pins on the circ pump part of the board on lower right portion of the board, then powered it on and tested it from the pins on the board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted August 19, 2020 Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 Ok. It wasn't necessary to remove the wires from the spade terminals, just put one test lead on the black circ pump wire terminal and the other on the white. Disconnect the heater while you do this to avoid power interruption from overheat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Slone Posted August 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 Still showing 0. Also the red light no longer blinks. I just seen on the picture I attached of the board when I zoomed in right in the middle of the board it looks burnt or corroded? Can you see that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Slone Posted August 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 Here is the spot I was referring to. I didn't even notice it when I took the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Slone Posted August 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 I assume the board is bad? Any way to test other components to see if anything else is needed? If something that is bad caused it, I dont want it to happen to a new board... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 Looking at the incoming power wires..is the white joined to the ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 That is a low voltage logic chip and not really linked to any equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Slone Posted August 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 36 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said: Looking at the incoming power wires..is the white joined to the ground? Yes, it is in the breaker as well, the schematics had no neutral for the 220 breaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Slone Posted August 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 26 minutes ago, RDspaguy said: That is a low voltage logic chip and not really linked to any equipment. Ok. Let me know if you think of anything I could try. Hoping to avoid calling a tech in. The only one I could find charges $155 to show up and that covers 15 minutes then $100 an hour kicks in. So pretty much looking at a minimum of $255 + parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Slone Posted August 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 49 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said: Looking at the incoming power wires..is the white joined to the ground? Here is the instructions for the wiring. Let me know if you think somethings wrong. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 7 hours ago, Brian Slone said: Yes, it is in the breaker as well, the schematics had no neutral for the 220 breaker. I don't see a lot of these in my area and can't really see from the photo you posted so I will defer to others on the wiring set up but it seems odd to me. I would also redo a couple of those wires. They look jammed in and might not be making proper contact. 7 hours ago, Brian Slone said: Ok. Let me know if you think of anything I could try. Hoping to avoid calling a tech in. The only one I could find charges $155 to show up and that covers 15 minutes then $100 an hour kicks in. So pretty much looking at a minimum of $255 + parts. Wow what area are you in? Is that USD? ...might have to move there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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