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Beachcomber 2003 'FL' fault


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I'm completely new to this forum and to forums in general but it seems there are a lot of people on here with a lot of experience so I'm hoping someone can help...

We moved into a new home which has a Beachcomber 160 / Digital 1000 management system hot tub that was installed in 2002/2003. It was working when we first moved in  but over time there have been a few problems - OH errors, leaking knife valve, FL errors etc so it has been sitting unused for 18 months.

We've recently managed to replace the valve and fix the leak and refilled the hot tub. When we power it on it goes through a set up where the display panel shows '21' then '03' then displays the temperature and after a couple of seconds shows a constant 'FL' code. The pump does not activate.

We turned it off at the mains and back on again. This time , it went through the ‘21’, ‘03’ Etc and When it showed the Temperature on the display we pressed the on/off (function switch) on the control panel and the pump started up?? Conclusion is that the Low speed pump only comes on if manually pressed before the ‘FL’ errors shows. 

So it’s working but with some fault. Our concern is that when it reaches temperature it turns off. Then when it is supposed to come on for the cleaning cycle it does not automatically come on. Pump does not come on automatically. 

We have had the flow switch (paddle type) tested and it works so we assumed it was the capacitor - we have now replaced this and it is the same problem. 

We're really not sure what else to try? Any suggestions?

 

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2 hours ago, Mel Thomas said:

We have had the flow switch (paddle type) tested and it works

How was it tested and by whom? 

Remove the filters and leave them out until the issue is fixed. Remove them from the equation.

Is the FL code solid or flashing? Solid is usually a faulty flow switch. Flashing is a low flow error...Dirty filter, low water level, closed gate valve or blockage from debris.

Could try removing the flow switch from the circuit board and use a flat head screwdriver to touch the 2 pins on the circuit board together and see if it starts. Basically by passing/jumpering the flow switch. If it starts replace flow switch. 

 

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Thanks for the message. 
it was tested by an electrician and He confirmed it worked when pressed together. We took the switch out and he tested that there was continuity when the switch was pressed close. 
It’s a constant FL error - not a flashing one. 
the problem seems to be the pump is not activating when it is powered on. We can only get the pump to work when we physically press the control panel before the FL errors comes up. It then works fine without any error, and heats Up until it Reaches temperature and then turns off. It does not then restart for its cleaning cycle so has to be powered off and restarted. 
 

whatever makes the pump activate atomically is not happening  - The pump is not getting the signal to fire up which is why we thought it was the Capacitor but that has not fixed the problem. 

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15 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

How was it tested and by whom? 

Remove the filters and leave them out until the issue is fixed. Remove them from the equation.

Is the FL code solid or flashing? Solid is usually a faulty flow switch. Flashing is a low flow error...Dirty filter, low water level, closed gate valve or blockage from debris.

Could try removing the flow switch from the circuit board and use a flat head screwdriver to touch the 2 pins on the circuit board together and see if it starts. Basically by passing/jumpering the flow switch. If it starts replace flow switch. 

 

We did what you suggested and removed the flow switch, connected the 2 pins on the circuit board with a screwdriver and started up the hot tub - it started!!!! It reverted to a flashing 'FL' code (when the screwdriver was removed) which we assume because the flow switch was removed. How can that be if it tested positive on a multimeter? 

What we can't understand is if it is the flow switch, how can the constant FL error be overridden by pressing the display panel. This is how we have been using it to get over the FL code - power it on - wait for '21' '03' 'temp' and then press the display panel button and the low speed pump comes on.

Thanks you RDspaguy for your reply, please see below the circuit board

 

PHOTO-2020-07-05-14-57-09 (4).jpg

PHOTO-2020-07-05-14-57-09 (3).jpg

PHOTO-2020-07-05-14-57-08 (2).jpg

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***Update***

We did what you suggested and removed the flow switch, connected the 2 pins on the circuit board with a screwdriver and started up the hot tub - it started!!!! It reverted to a flashing 'FL' code (when the screwdriver was removed) which we assume because the flow switch was removed. How can that be if it tested positive on a multimeter? 

Actually my hubby did not connect the two pins on the circuit board until AFTER it was powered on - and it worked. When he held the screwdriver on the pins BEFORE it was turned on it did not work - it was the same problem as when the flow switch is plugged in (constant FL error). But then when he removed the screwdriver, pump comes on but no heater light and he had a flashing FL. Touched the screwdirver again and FL error disappears and heater light comes on.

 

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Yes. Solid flo means it is reading closed when it should be open, flashing flo is the opposite. That is why we suspect a bad flow switch, because it should not be closed at start-up. The fact that it works when jumpered after start up confirms that it is the switch or wire and not the board. 

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1 hour ago, RDspaguy said:

Yes. Solid flo means it is reading closed when it should be open, flashing flo is the opposite. That is why we suspect a bad flow switch, because it should not be closed at start-up. The fact that it works when jumpered after start up confirms that it is the switch or wire and not the board. 

This is starting to make sense now - when the flow switch was removed from the hot tub, it tested exactly as it should - there was no reading when the paddle was open, and a reading (and beeping) when the paddle was closed. However we have today noticed that the flow switch has a split in the plastic casing - could this be causing to flow switch to malfunction when it is in the water (making a connection even though the paddle is not touching) and therefore reading as closed on start-up?

 

PHOTO-2020-07-05-23-53-06 (2).jpg

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  • 9 months later...
On 7/5/2020 at 1:56 PM, RDspaguy said:

Yes. Solid flo means it is reading closed when it should be open, flashing flo is the opposite. That is why we suspect a bad flow switch, because it should not be closed at start-up. The fact that it works when jumpered after start up confirms that it is the switch or wire and not the board. 

I'm having an "FL" problem as well. I replaced the flow switch but still getting the error. Tried the shorting the pins, but no change. Any suggestions on what to try next?

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