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2000 Hot Spring Sovereign NO HEAT


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Tub came with the house. New filters, new thermistors for high limit and thermostat. Circ pump I'm assuming is working because there are bubbles coming out from the drain. Light on panel for heater will light red when I turn the dial. Assuming my heating element is bad but the sellers said everything worked fine last fall. 

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1 hour ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Go white and black and you should get 240 V AC

Are you sure there is proper water flow from the circulation pump? 

Remove the filters until issue is fixed. Remove them from the equation. 

Wired for 120v, so I'm assuming it should be 120. Shows 1 ATM. Filters are brand new. 

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Turn off power. Remove the black and white wires that connect the two relays from the relay on the right. Turn on power. Check for 120vac at the two (now empty) spade terminals on the right relay. Then check for 12vac at the small control wires (red/blue, black/white) on the top of the relays. Post results.

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10 hours ago, RDspaguy said:

Turn off power. Remove the black and white wires that connect the two relays from the relay on the right. Turn on power. Check for 120vac at the two (now empty) spade terminals on the right relay. Then check for 12vac at the small control wires (red/blue, black/white) on the top of the relays. Post results.

Pulled the jumpers and kicked the power back on. Shows 1v on the empty right side and 0 on the control wires.

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Check the blue/red for 12vdc, just in case my memory is as bad as my wife claims. If you have no voltage at that then the circuit board is not sending voltage to the relay. The lights seem to indicate that it's trying. Check the plug for the red/blue wires on the board. Remove the board and check for burns, corrosion, or debris.

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42 minutes ago, RDspaguy said:

Check the blue/red for 12vdc, just in case my memory is as bad as my wife claims. If you have no voltage at that then the circuit board is not sending voltage to the relay. The lights seem to indicate that it's trying. Check the plug for the red/blue wires on the board. Remove the board and check for burns, corrosion, or debris.

I don't see anything out of the ordinary. Still no voltage. Also, whenever I kickoff the power water starts flowing out of the ozonator. Is the normal?

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On 7/4/2020 at 8:13 PM, CanadianSpaTech said:

Ok you sure it's not heating. A 110V spa will take a Loooong time to heat. Were talking 36-40 hours

Was it wired 110 before?

What voltage did you get white and black going to heater?

It was wired to 110 before. Still getting 1v coming from heater. Checked power in and it is at 120v.

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2 minutes ago, RDspaguy said:

And the jets are off while you check?

Yes, I believe the only way for the jets to come on is with either the cleaning cycle or the other jet button. Unless I am missing something. I know with the 120v the heater should kick off when the jets come on. I'm assuming that is what you're getting after. 

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It is. If you arent getting low voltage to the relay coil the board is not sending it. But with the green limit and the red heater lights both on it thinks it is sending it. That spells "bad board" in my vocabulary.

Just to be safe, take a resistance reading on each thermistor with your meter set to 20k ohms. 

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18 minutes ago, RDspaguy said:

It is. If you arent getting low voltage to the relay coil the board is not sending it. But with the green limit and the red heater lights both on it thinks it is sending it. That spells "bad board" in my vocabulary.

Just to be safe, take a resistance reading on each thermistor with your meter set to 20k ohms. 

They are brand new thermistors as well. Am I just unplugging them from the control panel and putting a lead in each side? 

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Yes. Check each black/white pair. Make sure they are wired correctly if they were just replaced.

Just checking a few things to be sure. I am not a hot springs expert, I work on all brands. I may be wrong about the lights on the board, and you just got a bad thermistor.

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On 7/5/2020 at 11:35 PM, RDspaguy said:

Yes. Check each black/white pair. Make sure they are wired correctly if they were just replaced.

Just checking a few things to be sure. I am not a hot springs expert, I work on all brands. I may be wrong about the lights on the board, and you just got a bad thermistor.

They just screw into the heater with an o ring. You also can't misplace them because the plugs for high limit and thermostat are different. I'll post back with resistance. 

Checked them with power on and both high limit and thermostat are open. I'd read they were supposed to be between like 10-14?

Assuming I cracked both thermistors by over tightening them.

 

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On 7/6/2020 at 8:12 AM, DeLuca513 said:

They just screw into the heater with an o ring. You also can't misplace them because the plugs for high limit and thermostat are different. I'll post back with resistance. 

Checked them with power on and both high limit and thermostat are open. I'd read they were supposed to be between like 10-14?

Thermistors show no damage but are still showing open when checked with my multimeter. Not sure where to go from here. I did see that I had placed an extra o ring on the thermostat sensor. Not sure if that could affect it? 

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https://www.backyardplus.com/proddetail.php?prod=38416

Scroll down to the test procedure and resistance chart. Your tester should be in the 20k ohm setting. If it is set too low you will read open. Both should be within a few hundred ohms of each other. 

On 7/6/2020 at 7:12 AM, DeLuca513 said:

Checked them with power on and both high limit and thermostat are open. I'd read they were supposed to be between like 10-14?

You must unplug them from the board to test. 

10-14 what?

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6 hours ago, RDspaguy said:

https://www.backyardplus.com/proddetail.php?prod=38416

Scroll down to the test procedure and resistance chart. Your tester should be in the 20k ohm setting. If it is set too low you will read open. Both should be within a few hundred ohms of each other. 

You must unplug them from the board to test. 

10-14 what?

10-14 ohms is what I thought I saw, I must have misread. I've got the fluke auto ranging so I do not have a 20k setting. I removed them both and tested but both are reading open. 

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