DeLuca513 Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 Tub came with the house. New filters, new thermistors for high limit and thermostat. Circ pump I'm assuming is working because there are bubbles coming out from the drain. Light on panel for heater will light red when I turn the dial. Assuming my heating element is bad but the sellers said everything worked fine last fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cusser Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 Can you check the resistance (ohms) across the heating element? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLuca513 Posted July 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 Not sure where to put my multimeter for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratchett Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 You're going to need to test the heater.... voltage I suspect, but maybe resistance? (sorry, still learning) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLuca513 Posted July 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 I know the leads to the far left (green, white, black) plug into the no fault heater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 Go white and black and you should get 240 V AC Are you sure there is proper water flow from the circulation pump? Remove the filters until issue is fixed. Remove them from the equation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLuca513 Posted July 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 1 hour ago, CanadianSpaTech said: Go white and black and you should get 240 V AC Are you sure there is proper water flow from the circulation pump? Remove the filters until issue is fixed. Remove them from the equation. Wired for 120v, so I'm assuming it should be 120. Shows 1 ATM. Filters are brand new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted July 5, 2020 Report Share Posted July 5, 2020 Ok you sure it's not heating. A 110V spa will take a Loooong time to heat. Were talking 36-40 hours Was it wired 110 before? What voltage did you get white and black going to heater? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 5, 2020 Report Share Posted July 5, 2020 Turn off power. Remove the black and white wires that connect the two relays from the relay on the right. Turn on power. Check for 120vac at the two (now empty) spade terminals on the right relay. Then check for 12vac at the small control wires (red/blue, black/white) on the top of the relays. Post results. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLuca513 Posted July 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2020 10 hours ago, RDspaguy said: Turn off power. Remove the black and white wires that connect the two relays from the relay on the right. Turn on power. Check for 120vac at the two (now empty) spade terminals on the right relay. Then check for 12vac at the small control wires (red/blue, black/white) on the top of the relays. Post results. Pulled the jumpers and kicked the power back on. Shows 1v on the empty right side and 0 on the control wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 5, 2020 Report Share Posted July 5, 2020 Check the blue/red for 12vdc, just in case my memory is as bad as my wife claims. If you have no voltage at that then the circuit board is not sending voltage to the relay. The lights seem to indicate that it's trying. Check the plug for the red/blue wires on the board. Remove the board and check for burns, corrosion, or debris. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLuca513 Posted July 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 42 minutes ago, RDspaguy said: Check the blue/red for 12vdc, just in case my memory is as bad as my wife claims. If you have no voltage at that then the circuit board is not sending voltage to the relay. The lights seem to indicate that it's trying. Check the plug for the red/blue wires on the board. Remove the board and check for burns, corrosion, or debris. I don't see anything out of the ordinary. Still no voltage. Also, whenever I kickoff the power water starts flowing out of the ozonator. Is the normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 And the jets are off while you check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLuca513 Posted July 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 On 7/4/2020 at 8:13 PM, CanadianSpaTech said: Ok you sure it's not heating. A 110V spa will take a Loooong time to heat. Were talking 36-40 hours Was it wired 110 before? What voltage did you get white and black going to heater? It was wired to 110 before. Still getting 1v coming from heater. Checked power in and it is at 120v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLuca513 Posted July 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 2 minutes ago, RDspaguy said: And the jets are off while you check? Yes, I believe the only way for the jets to come on is with either the cleaning cycle or the other jet button. Unless I am missing something. I know with the 120v the heater should kick off when the jets come on. I'm assuming that is what you're getting after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 It is. If you arent getting low voltage to the relay coil the board is not sending it. But with the green limit and the red heater lights both on it thinks it is sending it. That spells "bad board" in my vocabulary. Just to be safe, take a resistance reading on each thermistor with your meter set to 20k ohms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLuca513 Posted July 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 18 minutes ago, RDspaguy said: It is. If you arent getting low voltage to the relay coil the board is not sending it. But with the green limit and the red heater lights both on it thinks it is sending it. That spells "bad board" in my vocabulary. Just to be safe, take a resistance reading on each thermistor with your meter set to 20k ohms. They are brand new thermistors as well. Am I just unplugging them from the control panel and putting a lead in each side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 Yes. Check each black/white pair. Make sure they are wired correctly if they were just replaced. Just checking a few things to be sure. I am not a hot springs expert, I work on all brands. I may be wrong about the lights on the board, and you just got a bad thermistor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLuca513 Posted July 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 On 7/5/2020 at 11:35 PM, RDspaguy said: Yes. Check each black/white pair. Make sure they are wired correctly if they were just replaced. Just checking a few things to be sure. I am not a hot springs expert, I work on all brands. I may be wrong about the lights on the board, and you just got a bad thermistor. They just screw into the heater with an o ring. You also can't misplace them because the plugs for high limit and thermostat are different. I'll post back with resistance. Checked them with power on and both high limit and thermostat are open. I'd read they were supposed to be between like 10-14? Assuming I cracked both thermistors by over tightening them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLuca513 Posted July 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 On 7/6/2020 at 8:12 AM, DeLuca513 said: They just screw into the heater with an o ring. You also can't misplace them because the plugs for high limit and thermostat are different. I'll post back with resistance. Checked them with power on and both high limit and thermostat are open. I'd read they were supposed to be between like 10-14? Thermistors show no damage but are still showing open when checked with my multimeter. Not sure where to go from here. I did see that I had placed an extra o ring on the thermostat sensor. Not sure if that could affect it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 https://www.backyardplus.com/proddetail.php?prod=38416 Scroll down to the test procedure and resistance chart. Your tester should be in the 20k ohm setting. If it is set too low you will read open. Both should be within a few hundred ohms of each other. On 7/6/2020 at 7:12 AM, DeLuca513 said: Checked them with power on and both high limit and thermostat are open. I'd read they were supposed to be between like 10-14? You must unplug them from the board to test. 10-14 what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLuca513 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 6 hours ago, RDspaguy said: https://www.backyardplus.com/proddetail.php?prod=38416 Scroll down to the test procedure and resistance chart. Your tester should be in the 20k ohm setting. If it is set too low you will read open. Both should be within a few hundred ohms of each other. You must unplug them from the board to test. 10-14 what? 10-14 ohms is what I thought I saw, I must have misread. I've got the fluke auto ranging so I do not have a 20k setting. I removed them both and tested but both are reading open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 I don't trust those readings. Sensors read wrong, but I have never seen one not read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLuca513 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 4 hours ago, RDspaguy said: I don't trust those readings. Sensors read wrong, but I have never seen one not read. So do I need to get another multimeter to test these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 I am not sure. Having never used one like that, I am not sure how to advise you. But I have never tested a sensor that read non-continuous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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