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DougA

measuring low level of chlorine (around .3 -- .7 ppm)

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I'm planning to use Nature2 or Clearwater Blue which requires only low levels of chlorine (.5 ppm).  What is a good way to measure (test strips, etc.) that measure low levels of choline like in the .3 to 1.0 rang.

 

--Doug

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Nothing that I know of reads that low. You shouldn't shoot for that level, it's just still ok if it gets that low. One person will burn off over 3ppm in an hour. If you start at .5 you will have high contaminant levels before you know it. 

Do you have ozone? If so, shock after each use with chlorine and let the ozone burn it off so your levels are low when you next use it.

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Based on what I read from @dlleno and his blog 1-3ppm will allow for biofilm to establish. I'm aiming for a constant 4-7ppm in my tub personally. But I'm not an expert 🙂

Why does  "Hot Tub Serum" work so well?

Recall that in Part 1 of this series (referenced above), I highlighted that biofilms can survive Chlorine concentrations of 1-3ppm -- levels that some authorities still promote. 

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Use a mineral purifier. I wouldn't dream of getting close to 7ppm in mine unless I spilled my beer. And certainly not while I or my family was in it.

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And there are certain bacteria that secrete a mucous layer that are TOTALLY chlorine resistant. These are what primarily form a biofilm. Otherwise, a simple superchlorination would kill it and Ahh-Some would be unnecessary. 

And you must have exposure to the contaminant to get it growing in your tub. It's not in the fill water. Municipal water sources do not have biofilm in the pipes, and do not treat with Ahh-Some. It generally takes poor chemistry to allow it to start even with exposure.

The long exposure time to silver and copper (as well as other metals) in the water will penetrate this layer and prevent the biofilm from developing in the first place. At least that is what some studies I have read suggest.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.who.int/water_sanitation_health/publications/silver-02032018.pdf%3Fua%3D1&ved=2ahUKEwifybyc6PPpAhUVTTABHezWBd4QFjALegQIChAB&usg=AOvVaw1No2ToAf-BERlLvKEYhdj_

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42 minutes ago, RDspaguy said:

Use a mineral purifier. I wouldn't dream of getting close to 7ppm in mine unless I spilled my beer. And certainly not while I or my family was in it.

See training wheels 🙂

4-6ppm?

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Recommended levels in a spa is 3-5ppm. If you have heavy use or got lazy (like me) and aren't using supplemental means, like ozone and mineral, you could go higher.

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Lazy is good lol, 6 it is lol

I think time is always a factor. I'm lucky right now I have time to learn all this new techno hot tub jargon.

There's many seesaws and fine line juggling from what I've experienced so far.

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With the Nature2, they recommend testing MPS before getting in, using MPS after each use, and using a Dichor when there are clear problems.  (see attached directions).

I've read a lot of articles that promote the use of Nature2 following this procedure OR keeping 0.5 Chlorine.  Is there research or science to support the use of Nature2 in this way?

Are folks having success with Nature2 and staying safe/healthy?

Thanks, Doug

 

 

Nature2 manual directions.pdf

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Neither nature2 (or any mineral purifier) or ozone, or both, eliminate the need for sanitizer in the water. While both have some sanitizing potential, neither can do what chlorine or bromine do, they just lessen the amount needed.

MPS is not a sanitizer, it is a non-chlorine shock (oxidizer). 

Ozone is a strong oxidizer and sanitizes the water it contacts inside the injection pipe but returns it to a potentially unsanitary tub. As it is not present in all of the water (residual) it does not completely sanitize.

Mineral purifiers have a very long depletion time which varies for different contaminants and can fail to keep up with the reproductive rate of those contaminants in high concentrations.

For these reasons they are not recognized by the CDC, EPA, or health department as sanitizers. Sanitizer should be added after each use to kill the pathogens introduced in the water by bathers. Once these pathogens are destroyed and the cover is on the minerals (metal ions) can keep it sanitized and the ozone will oxidize the pathogen remains (shock) and burn off the residual chlorine and chloramines or oxidize bromides back to bromine.

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On 6/20/2020 at 11:21 PM, RDspaguy said:

For these reasons they are not recognized by the CDC, EPA, or health department as sanitizers. Sanitizer should be added after each use to kill the pathogens introduced in the water by bathers. Once these pathogens are destroyed and the cover is on the minerals (metal ions) can keep it sanitized and the ozone will oxidize the pathogen remains (shock) and burn off the residual chlorine and chloramines or oxidize bromides back to bromine.

Thanks for the clarification.  What sanitizer do you recommend after bathers?  Does Dichlor work well.  If so, do you just recommend the typical amount specified on the bottle?

 

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Dichlor is approximately 45% cya (cyanuric acid) which is a chlorine stabilizer and can cause chlorine lock above 50ppm. Read the sticky thread at the beginning of the spa section on dichlor/ bleach. If you use only dichlor (like me) you will have to drain your tub every 3 months or less (like me) due to high cya.

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