Another question about how to shock

[Susanj]

I think I’ve been doing this incorrectly.  We have been using MPS non chlorine shock when the bromine has been zero . But just enough to get the level to 1-2 ppm, so about a Tbsp. 

If the bromine reading is in the appropriate range of 1-2, do I still need to shock weekly AND with the amount listed on the container? (2 Tbsp for our size tub). 

That  brings it up  to 10+.
Anyone know about how long it takes to come down before we can go back in? I know there’s not much you can do other than leave the jets side and leave it uncovered? 

[CanadianSpaTech]

Drain some out and add fresh water

[Susanj]

Ha-That’s simple enough! Thanks.

[Susanj]

But is this the correct way to shock- using the amount recommended and not the amount to just get bromine in range? This is how it’s supposed to work and what usually happens- a very high reading? 

[RDspaguy]

Chemical manufacturers sell chemicals. They like it when you use alot. And their generic recommendation will err on the safe side of too much sanitizer rather than not enough. As I have said, you can't read negative, meaning if there are contaminants present when you shock some of the bromine you just oxidized from bromide will immediately combine with those contaminants and go back to bromide. There is no way to lower bromine (that I know of) except to provide contaminants for it to combine with. Ozone will gradually oxidize it out because of the extreme oxidizing potential of ozone, but that is a very slow process with bromine as bromine is much less reactive than chlorine. 

I would use what I need to get a 5ppm reading, but in your vacation rental starting high might be your best bet. High bromine will not be nearly so problematic as high chlorine, because it is so much less reactive it is also less irritating. As soon as your renters get in the level will begin to drop quickly.

[Susanj]

From what I understand,  you can get in at 10, but 5 is better since some are sensitive to the higher levels (skin, eyes, lungs). And the higher levels are more likely to fade your suit. 

[RDspaguy]

Bromine is less reactive than chlorine and not an oxidizer (bleach), so less likely to fade your suit or irritate you. As a vacation rental owner, if I where in your shoes I would be more concerned about bacteria and protozoa that would make my guests ill than about their bathing suits. But, as always, it is your choice. You asked for opinions, I gave you mine.

[Susanj]

Makes perfect sense! 

[Susanj]

I am more concerned with it being irritating to the bather, of course, than their swimming suit.

 

So am I correct in thinking that in getting the bromine to a level of a 5 rather than a 10, it won’t do as good a job of cleaning/ shocking? 

 

It’s possible that it could go over 10- that’s one of my apprehensions about following the directions. 

[RDspaguy]

Shocking is oxidation, bromine is not an oxidizer. It will not shock or help clear cloudy water. That is why you need to shock. Bromine is a sanitizer that is produced from bromide by oxidation, so it must be shocked to produce sanitizer and to clear cloudy water. 5ppm bromine is the upper end of the recommended level. In a heavy use situation, 5ppm will be gone down to 0 in a matter of an hour, and will need to be shocked again to reactivate it. Higher levels give you more leeway for heavy use. Levels over 10 are not recommended for any sanitizer, but will be much less troublesome with bromine than chlorine because bromine is much less reactive so works slower and causes less irritation.

[Susanj]

Yes, , I realize that is why you shock with MPS ( or Dichlor). Doesn’t it serve to reactivate the bromine so to speak? 

[RDspaguy]

6 hours ago, RDspaguy said:

Bromine is a sanitizer that is produced from bromide by oxidation, so it must be shocked to produce sanitizer and to clear cloudy water.

Is there an echo (echo, echo)?😂

Yes. When bromine combines with a contaminant it becomes bromide. When bromide is shocked (oxidized) it converts to bromine and the contaminant is burned off. Your starting chemical for bromine is sodium bromide, often in combination with sodium dichlor (oxidizer). This establishes the bromine "reserve" from which you repeatedly generate your bromine each time you shock. Bromine tablets are part bromine and part chlorine (oxidizer) which keep the reserve up and oxidized. 

I normally do not recommend tablets in floaters (or feeders upstream from the equipment) because the floater invariably ends up in the skimmer sending concentrated chemicals through your equipment and causing damage. In your case, a floater would not be a bad idea as it would help to keep up with your heavy bather load and lack of regular maintenance when guests are checked in, just tie it off to a handrail or valve knob so it does not end up in the skimmer. In Tahoe, we would always find them tossed out on the ground after a rental. It seems the guests didn't like them.🤪

 

[Susanj]

I ‘ve heard some say that the floater should come out when people are in the hot tub, though I don’t know how important that is . What’s important  is that they put it back in when they’re done. 

We’re going to switch from the floater to the in-line Frog system because the floater doesn’t seem to be bringing up our bromine levels overnight all the time. (after use in the evening when it might get to 0).

[RDspaguy]

👍