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Softub Rebuild Thread


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Hello all!

I've been lurking here for some time, finally its time I am able to contribute some info to those who may be in a similar situation. I'm also hoping to have some know mods posted here, for example possibly a thermostat mod so I can turn the temp up to 106 or 108. Also if anyone is using a floating chlorine dispenser, if so what kind? I haven't found very many threads about Softubs or info about what people are doing when they break down.

 

 

So, I'm in the process of rebuilding my 220 gallon softub motor. My tub is about 3 years old and I've had it for of those 2 years. About a month ago it started getting louder and louder. I figured it was a dying bearing, I didn't realize how bad that bearing was and how difficult it was going to be. For some reason there are no part numbers on anything, not on the motor or the pump assembly. I don't know why but it has made this project a bit more time consuming.

It was difficult to get apart because everything was really corroded together. In the process I managed to break the plastic fan inside the motor, as well as fracture the aluminum end cap that the bearing presses into. It still wouldn't come off, so I got the torch. lol I managed to get it off but it wasn't pretty. I understood I was probably going to ruin what was left of that aluminum end cap. I was going to search the recycling yard for a new 48 frame end cap. They always have a dumpster full of recycled electric motors. Anyways, I decided to go with a new motor, because I still had a bearing frozen to the armature of the motor. I really didn't want to mess with it. The actual culprit that caused the bearing to fail was a cracked impeller shaft. It let small amounts of water by the seal and slowly rusted out the front bearing. Pretty common issue from what I've read.

 

After hours of research this is the motor that I found, It is the exact same one Softub used. I emailed a few hottub parts suppliers and even Softub it's self, no one answered any of my questions. After some digging I found It's a 48 frame 1HP 1 speed Emerson motor, 12A 110v. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVC8LFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another link with more specs and info https://www.spapumpsandmore.com/Softub_Motor_for_Softub_Pump_MTREM_6497_Soft_Tub_p/mtrem-6497.htm

Basically my plan was to move all the new parts from the new motor into the old motor housing with the piping. It was pretty straight forward since everything was identical. 

Unfortunately no one seams to carry the motor with the stainless steel piping wrapped around it. I've found this option that supposedly works the same as the stainless steel wrap but I read some reviews saying they leak, so I lost interest.

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I'm having issues with posting multiple pics and putting text in-between the images so I'll have to post all the pics one after another without text in-between them.

I used anti-seize grease on the mating surfaces where the aluminum end caps mate to the steel housing, I also slathered it on the bearings. Just in case I ever have to do this again. 

Note in the last pic how there is aluminum foil tape covering the vents at the back of the motor. I believe Softub did that to keep the heat of the motor in, because if the motor ran to cool it wouldn't be as good of a heater. These motors can get really hot if not properly cooled, 104 degree water probably keeps these motors way below the maximum temp these can handle. 

 

I'll post updates when the impeller and new seal kit comes in.

Update: I received the 1HP impeller, its not the right one. I think  Softub used a 3HP impeller. Thinking about it they can get away with working this motor harder than normal because they don't have to worry about overheating the motor since its essentially water cooled. Same concept with water cooled boats, they don't have to worry as much about cooling because the lake water is always the same temp regardless of how hard they run it that day.

 

Update: After emailing back and forth with an aqua-flo service specialist the verdict is the impeller is specially made for the Softub. After contacting a certified repair shop they said the parts are sold on a "closed market". Basically he can't sell me the parts but can repair my pump for $1000, also rebuild my motor that's already rebuilt. I'm not paying $1k to have this repaired by some guy. I decided to try and JB weld the crack in my impeller. Its on the shaft, it's not necessarily a structural part. Definitely not a load bearing part. After it was dry I smoothed it out and polished the surface. I saw in a pump rebuild video the guy used a little silicone to help seal the seal to the shaft as well as help it slide on during installation. So I did, I put everything back together and let the silicone dry. My softub has been running leak free for about 3 weeks now. I've been checking for leaks a few times a day. So far so good. I know this is only a band aid. I am currently shopping for a standard 1.5HP XP2e pump w/ impeller. The flow rates may be different but to me it's worth trying. I'm trying to document the parts and process of rebuilding a softub since there is a lack of info out there. But for now its been working.

 

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  • 10 months later...

Hi, I'm wondering if you ever figured out what HP impeller you needed? I just acquired a very old T300 Softub and am trying to get it working -- the impeller doesn't seem to turn (with my hand, GFCI trips when plugged in), and like your photos, the whole shaft is totally rusted out. I'm trying to figure out if trying to replace the impeller is worth it and what I'd need to buy, but everything I'm finding seems to indicate that the Softubs use a 1.5HP Aqua-Flo impeller? Wondering if you ever determined what you needed to buy (and if you did, if you have any idea if it's the same for the T300 as your 220).

Thanks!

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53 minutes ago, Rach said:

the impeller doesn't seem to turn

Front bearing is likely seized as well you would have to replace the seal and impeller because they rarely come off unbroken. I'm not saying the one he is holding in the photo is the right impeller for your pump but it looks and likely is a 3 hp impeller....buy new IMO

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Thanks. I know I may need to replace the seal as well, and potentially other parts; I of course won't know for sure until I take it apart further, and get the rust off the motor shaft and such. Would you mind explaining how you know from the OPs photo that it's a 3 hp impeller, considering that according to the Softub website, the motor is 1.5hp, and from this old parts catalog (my T300 is from 2010) the impeller is 1 hp (https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/10596922/softub-parts-catalog)?

Wondering if OP ever found the correct impeller for their repair.

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Can tell by the width of the impeller. Yours looks to be a 1 or 1.5 HP.

What has happened in your case is that the impeller shaft has split and is now locked into the seal. Water has run along the shaft and likely into the front bearing. You will have to break the impeller off and dig it out from around the seal to remove the wet end housing. To remove the wet end remove the 4 long 5/16" bolt/screws from the back end of the pump. Once the wet end housing is removed spin the motor shaft and see if it spins freely. If it is tight then you will also have to replace the front bearing. If it spins freely then grind down the shaft to remove the rust and also the end of the shaft where the threads are has likely ballooned out a bit so make sure the impeller will go on without tightness before putting the wet end back on being careful not to damage the thread. This ballooning is likely what caused the impeller shft to split. The motor shaft will balloon from centrifugal force of the shaft always spinning...and time. Good luck

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Thanks! Finally got in touch with someone who rehabs softubs for a living, and he confirmed that this model uses a 1.5hp impeller.

As you suggested, my plan is to get this thing off somehow/likely breaking the impeller to do so, getting all the rust off with a wire brush, replacing the impeller, seal,  and possibly bearing. We'll see how it goes!

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Wire brush might not be enough but try it first. I take the brass threaded fitting out of the old impeller and screw it back on to the shaft thread to protect the shaft thread and use a grinder to not only clean up the rusted shaft but to also knock down the area where the thread stops and the shaft starts where it has likely ballooned out a bit. Test fit the new impeller on to the shaft once cleaned up and make sure it spins on freely. If it is tight you need to take a bit more off that area. Good Luck

Edit. The face of the old impeller will break off and you will have to hammer and chisel the remaining impeller shaft out of the seal to get the wet end housing off to replace the seal and clean up the shaft. 

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Yeah, I had to cut and chisel off most of the impeller (and the piece with threading on the old impeller is now in pieces), but it's off and the seal is out now, so far so good. Now just need to clean up the shaft; hoping I don't need to deal with the bearing, the shaft seems to turn alright now that the impeller is off, and I don't really know what I'm doing if I have to open up the motor itself.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Impeller and seal have been replaced, I took a dremel with a sanding attachment to the motor shaft, reassembled, and it's filled and running! Turned out to be a 1hp impeller (a Gecko Aquaflo 91693601 was an exact match for a 300T Softub from 2010, in case anyone comes across this thread in the future). Thanks for all the advice regarding the impeller and seal removal and motor shaft cleaning!

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Hey there. I've just joined the forum. I have a tub from the early 90's. The Pump just started making noise, bearing I suspect. I've taken it apart but the pump wont be salvageable. I'm gonna need a new pump and motor. How do I tell what type of tub I have? 300T or A 220. Size of motor and pump. 

I'm going to need a new liner as well, any suggestions?

 

thx

Blake

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  • 2 weeks later...

Blake, if you have a 140 Softub, the pump is 1 hp; the 220 and 300 are 1.5 hp.  The pump and motor are the same.  You can buy one on eBay, get the green thermal tubing since it won't come with the metal tubing.  New liner, there is an outfit out of Alabama, also on eBay, that makes a "generic" Softub liner.. The liner and outside shell are one piece, sewed together.  There is a new Softub Owner's Group on Facebook, which you should join, a lot of information.  Good luck!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I'm rebuilding a T-140 hydropac and need to repace the insulation wrapped around the motor.  I can't find any reference to this material, much less a source.  I haven't found it in any parts diagram, haven't seen it listed for sale, and can't even find a picture of it.  But my insulation is in tatters from a water leak.  Does anybody know what I can use to replace it or where I might by a factory replacement?  Everything else was easy, crazy for this to be so frustrating :-)

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
On 1/1/2021 at 9:05 AM, jdass said:

Michael CA did you ever figure this out?  I have the same problem and question.

Same here!! Have been trying to find the capacitor, not sure where the Capacitor is located on the motor?? Also did anybody find a way to override the temp up to 106?

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  • 5 months later...

 I have a hydrapack that's been disassembled for "rebuild". I have inherited the problem now, but haven't found which terminals on the board the power inputs should be on. There are three terminals, J6, J7, and J8. I need to know where the black and white power input wires terminate, please! I see they were originally on J6 and J7, but in what order??

This is a 2011 digital board.

Thank you.

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  • 2 months later...

I just discovered this thread while looking for help on a project I’m trying to do with my softub so here goes…

I sold a softub years ago on Facebook marketplace that I did not have a hydromate pack for but the guy who bought it did not care because he told me he owns several Airbnb’s and all he does takes the pump pack from the cheap inflatable hot tubs you can buy from Walmart for $3-$400 and he’s able to somehow “rig” the plumbing up to a softub.  I have been able to find any information online of anybody else doing this and I no longer have his contact information so I now I have softub that my hydromate pack has gone out on and I have been unable to find nor can I really afford a replacement pack so I bought an inflatable spa and I was wondering if anybody on here could perhaps instruct me on how the plumbing might convert from this bestway saluspa to my softub?  I know I’d have to buy pipe adapters to line up with the increased size of the softub sense it uses a 2.25 inch connection where the inflatable pump only takes a 1 inch connection so obviously there’s a major size difference there but my biggest concern really is making the right connection with the 3 hoses coming from the bestway pump to the softub.  I know the big one (shown in the picture) is air for jets but I need to determine what the other two connections are which I’m guessing circulates the water through the pump for water intake and outtake but which does which?   Can anybody advise? 

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  • 5 months later...

Softub 220 Start Capacitor...Several posts were made that they could not find where the Start Capacitor is located in the older Softub 220.  I'm one of them.  I disassembled my Softub motor expecting to see the Start Capacitor clipped just underneath the motor.   Unfortunately, I could not order a new Start Capacitor unless I'm able to identify the old one.  Hopefully, someone can help me locate the placement so I can make my order and complete the job.  Thank you.

 

5/1/2022…Hi Michael CA…Did you ever get an answer to your question about finding the location of your Softub 220 Start Capacitor?  I looked at YouTube and the video indicated that when one removes the metal cover from the motor that you will find the Start Capacitor (1.437 inch diameter, 2.75” length) easy to get to and fastened with a strap and screw.  Unfortunately, my Softub 220 is nothing like the one shown on YouTube.  My Pump Model # is 02510725-2; CODE:  07288; AQUA-FLO, LLC, Chino, CA.  Hopefully, you were able to resolve the problem you had and willing to share your solution.  I realize I could go out and buy a new hot tub which would be quite costly;  but if I can resolve my problem with an inexpensive $12.50 Start Capacitor; that would be great.  Thank you for any help you can give me…Gene C.

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Thanks so much for your post!  I am dealing with the EXACT same problem, and just ordered the motor, which fingers crossed, will also be an exact fit for mine.  Agree, there's no way to remove a seized and rusted shaft, nor the ends without destroying them.  The outer bit looks fine though.  I've already redone the guts of my cover, and repaired a leak.  I've put too much into this to give-up for a damn $300 pump!  Anyone have any suggestions for keeping moisture out of the motor, or is that just inevitable?  Also, what the heck is wrapped around the coils, it looks like it was just Saran wrap... Thanks!  🙂

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  • 2 weeks later...

I’m glad I found this thread. I’m mostly replying to be able to track this easily. I had to unhook my 140 to do a house remodel. Just got back to reinstalling and it sounds like the pump is frozen because the lights come on but the motor just hums then kicks the breaker.

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Hi all. I have a "new" used softub that has motor issues (the price was right!). It just buzzes and doesn't turn - so i suspected starting capacitor issues. I have the back off the motor, and the centrifugal switch seems OK. The wiring from the switch goes directly to the starting winding, and I don't see a capacitor anywhere in that area. There is Klixon CEJ18EM motor protection device mounted on the back inside of the motor, but nothing else. The motor is a 1HP model S55CXNPH-7249.

I also don't see what I would recognize as a starting cap in the photos above by Samos12. So my question is: has anyone found it's location in this style of motor?

The alternative is that is doesn't have one. I found this reference online:

https://www.quora.com/Does-every-single-phase-AC-motor-require-a-capacitor-to-run?share=1

  • Most small AC motors do not have a capacitor. Small induction motors do have a starting winding, But the phase shift is produced by using a smaller size wire with fewer turns. So the main winding has mainly an inductive impedance while the starting winding is mainly resistive. It has less starting torque than a capacitor start motor, but it is adequate for washing machines, dryers, and power tools.

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Any ideas?

Thanks

Yuri

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Can you turn the motor by hand? If it’s free, it could be the start cap but I’ll bet it isn’t. I’ll be the motor is froze up. If you talk to anybody in the pool and spa world these motors run in a truly caustic situation with chlorine and if the motor has sat for any amount of time it’s froze. 

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