Hot spring IQ 2000 replacement

[Buickx]

I have a 2000 hot spring sovereign which is getting very low flow through the circ pump. This causes my high limit to trip. I have replaced the circ pump and thermistors, checked all tubing for clogs or air locks. Checked my heater thoroughly for build up, etc, and measured its resistance at 9.7 ohms.

I have come to the conclusion that my board must be the problem. I have an IQ 2000.

if I replace it with a iq 2020, do I need a new control head? new light? and possibly a new heater (currently the pdr titanium no fault)?  

I'm hesitant to spend more money on this tub without being at least 95% certain of the issue, let alone $1k or more.

[tjr]

Stop replacing parts. Call a local Hotspring dealer and have them send a mechanic out to DIAGNOSE your problem. 

[Buickx]

47 minutes ago, tjr said:

Stop replacing parts. Call a local Hotspring dealer and have them send a mechanic out to DIAGNOSE your problem. 

I did this when I replaced the circ pump. Everything they recommended I changed, with parts bought through them. It left a sour taste in my mouth. Service guy was rude, awkward and basically useless.  

[Cusser]

Did you try running without the filter cartridge?  When my CalSpa had low pressure/low flow, turned out my filter cartridge was too plugged up to cleanout properly.  Running without the filter showed me that a new filter would be the fix, and it was.

[Buickx]

7 minutes ago, Cusser said:

Did you try running without the filter cartridge?  When my CalSpa had low pressure/low flow, turned out my filter cartridge was too plugged up to cleanout properly.  Running without the filter showed me that a new filter would be the fix, and it was.

I did, but nothing changed. 

[castletonia]

If I remember correctly, you need the IQ2020 control pack, control head, control panel, and light. 

Its been a while since my company has done one of those upgrades.  I'm hesitant to suggest it because I think between parts and labor, its around $1,200.  I have a hard time wrapping my head around putting that much money into a hot tub that is 20 years old.  I would seriously consider a newer used hot tub or a new one if the budget allows it before making a big financial investment into your hot tub.    It's like a 20-year-old car where things keep breaking.  

[Buickx]

9 minutes ago, castletonia said:

If I remember correctly, you need the IQ2020 control pack, control head, control panel, and light. 

Its been a while since my company has done one of those upgrades.  I'm hesitant to suggest it because I think between parts and labor, its around $1,200.  I have a hard time wrapping my head around putting that much money into a hot tub that is 20 years old.  I would seriously consider a newer used hot tub or a new one if the budget allows it before making a big financial investment into your hot tub.    It's like a 20-year-old car where things keep breaking.  

I feel the same way. I was looking at new tubs today in fact. If I knew that the heater was the problem, I might replace it, but the control board is just too much. I cant find a definitive answer to say the heater is responsible for any suction past the circ pump, or if the board is even the culprit. would just be throwing money at it. 

[castletonia]

Do you actually have low flow?  Or does the hot tub just think it has low flow?

[Buickx]

6 minutes ago, castletonia said:

Do you actually have low flow?  Or does the hot tub just think it has low flow?

The outlet tube of the circ pump empties and makes a bunch of clicking sounds about 30 seconds after I turn on the heater breaker. I can visually see it trying to draw water up, but it isnt able to get enough into the heater. So it's definitely a flow issue through the heater. I dont know why it isnt drawing enough up, as the circ pump is brand new. Also, if I put a hose into my grey standpipe I can keep the heater running no problem. Does the heater have any suction to help the circ pump push water through it? 

[castletonia]

Assuming the water level is high enough and the filter isn't plugged, the circ pump should move enough water.  If it's struggling, I would have assume either an airlock, or defective circ pump.  Dumb question, but is the circ pump getting proper voltage?  Heater has no suction.  Only way the heater could affect water flow is if there was calcium or scale build up inside of it.

[Buickx]

40 minutes ago, castletonia said:

Assuming the water level is high enough and the filter isn't plugged, the circ pump should move enough water.  If it's struggling, I would have assume either an airlock, or defective circ pump.  Dumb question, but is the circ pump getting proper voltage?  Heater has no suction.  Only way the heater could affect water flow is if there was calcium or scale build up inside of it.

The tub is full, the filters are removed for testing. I have checked for airlocks, by removing both the inlet and outlet tubes to the circ pump, as well as at the T for the ozonator after the heater, several different times. I have emptied and refilled the tub through the grey standpipe as well, then also bled the air out at the circ pump after. All this made no difference. The problem remained exactly the same. I removed the heater and opened it up, it's like new everywhere, and it's only 3 years old. Still measuring 9.7 ohm. I can leave the tub full and not running for weeks and the water level remains constant, so I can assume there is no leaks on the suction side of the pump. I can feel and hear the circ pump running, but it isnt able to force enough through the outlet into the heater. I'm going to have the hot springs dealer test it this week, as they sold it too me.

 

Otherwise I think it's the iq 2000 control board, but have no reasoning why that would be the culprit. Would I be able to test the voltage to the circ pump at the connection from the board. It should be 115v? 

[javideofree]

I did, but nothing changed. 

[castletonia]

Unfortunately I don’t know the specifics as to how you would test power.  I would imagine that you are correct in testing the voltage at the board and it should be 115v.

[tjr]

To see if circ pump is getting correct voltage set meter to ac voltage and test across terminals on iq box marked circ pump white and black. you should have 120v ac. If you have voltage  to pump and it is not working it is defective(rare,but does happen). A lot of times the circ white wire is on wrong terminal.

[Buickx]

1 hour ago, tjr said:

To see if circ pump is getting correct voltage set meter to ac voltage and test across terminals on iq box marked circ pump white and black. you should have 120v ac. If you have voltage  to pump and it is not working it is defective(rare,but does happen). A lot of times the circ white wire is on wrong terminal.

Thank you. I'll try this and get back to you. 

[Buickx]

On 5/6/2019 at 6:18 AM, tjr said:

To see if circ pump is getting correct voltage set meter to ac voltage and test across terminals on iq box marked circ pump white and black. you should have 120v ac. If you have voltage  to pump and it is not working it is defective(rare,but does happen). A lot of times the circ white wire is on wrong terminal.

So, I checked the voltage on the IQ 2000 board. I do in fact have 120v at the circ pump connection (124.5v ac exactly). I also tested the main terminals blocks where the 30-amp and 20-amp breakers tie in. I get 125v off the hot / neutral of the 20-amp breaker (pump), and 244v ac from the 2 hot wires for the 30-amp heater breaker. I also tested to make sure it was in a proper loop sending power back to the main terminals by testing each hot line from the 30-amp breaker, back to the black and white circ pump connections individually, which also read 125v.  (hope this makes sense, I’m not an electrician). I looked at the back of the board and it shows no obvious signs of burning or damage, however, does have some slight discoloration in spots. i am going to pull it out and check the connectivity on the back. 

Also note, when i flip the 30 amp breaker, the circ pump does make some audible clicking sounds before the high limit trips.

[tjr]

The 30 amp is only  to power the heater everything else runs off the 20 amp gfci. the clicking is from the heater getting too hot and then tripping hilimit. Not that i've ever done it,  but did you remove  the two clear plastic plugs from the circ pump before install?

[Buickx]

47 minutes ago, tjr said:

The 30 amp is only  to power the heater everything else runs off the 20 amp gfci. the clicking is from the heater getting too hot and then tripping hilimit. Not that i've ever done it,  but did you remove  the two clear plastic plugs from the circ pump before install?

Lol. Yes I definitely removed the caps.

 

I decide to test the new circ. pump hot spring sold me as well. I wired it up to a 120v outlet and connected it to the pump. I had a hose submerged in a 5g bucket connected to the suction side of the pump. Made sure to prime the pump by getting water flowing through initially. Since the e5 silent flow pump should move about 4.1 gal/ min, I figured it would almost empty the bucket in 1 min. It did not suck any water up whatsoever. 

So I guess I was chasing a ghost going after the IQ 2000. I'm going to have the hot spring dealer test the pump to verify my results, and replace it with a new one. Hopefully this solves it

[Buickx]

Turns out the circ pump was not faulty. Ended up being a tiny piece if debris in the heater element. I must have missed it the first time I disassembled the heater. My bad. Either way I got the tub up and running now. However, I had to bypass the circ pump relay fuse. I want to replace it and get it working again, but I can find much information pertaining to it online, or the exact replacement. Is there a risk in bypassing this fuse?