30yo Jacuzzi vectra operation

[DRed81]

• G,day,

I am new here and have inherit a 30yo vectra ii in almost immaculate condition besides a few minor teething issues. I am in australia where they were delivered shipped over from the USA without the electrical components (we're 240v), which were sourced locally, fitout and finally sold. I have found all mechanical schematics online but nothing electrical and I am getting no email response from the pump/control manufacturer Finsbury pumps.

My questions mostly revolve around the pump operation and how I should expect it to behave as there is a slight inconsistancy in its operation. Blower works fine and the spa heats up quite nicely. Main pump air button first press turns the pump on full and draws 4.5A (rated motor current draw is 5A). 2nd press takes it to a slow speed and draws 8A(????). 3rd press sees no physical change however the current drops to 1.2A (which is the rated current draw for the slow speed). 4th press turns it all off. The inconsistancy is that one cycle through the button sequence will act as above and on the next cycle through it will switch off on the 2nd press and act the same on the 1st, 3rd and 4th. I suspect that different operation on the 2nd press varies based on the temp setpoint being above or below the water temp but I am looking for confirmation or thoughts on what else could cause this.

How much should I be running this in order to chemically maintain it correctly? 1.2A current draw is going to add up quite quickly if I leave it on the slow setting when not in use. Should I consider wiring a timer into the slow setting? There is a slight leak from the backside of the pump assembly so I intend to take out and have a look at this shortly, it would be the ideal time to look at installing a timer. Another option in my mind is to install a tiny circulation pump and a check valve in parallel with the main pump and have that on a timer to stir the water up for a few hours per day. This would save $$ on running costs plus the current motor makes quite a loud hum when in slow mode. Thoughts? Issues?

Long term my intention is to install a new (read efficient) pump/heater combo and I am looking at wiring up some kind of DIY closed loop temp control. Maybe an arduino controller with a repurposed LCD spa display would be nice, any tips or links on this would be greatly appreciated.

TIA

Dan

[Jersey Hot Tub Repair]

Hi Dan,

I don't see a lot of air switches anymore, but I'll try to think out loud and maybe give you a hand.

The air switch is typically connected to a stepper switch, where each puff steps through the available functions.  The stepper switch is a fairly large, inexpensive, and easily replaced. 

It's not logical that the system would draw 8A on the second press with the motor in low speed, then 1.2A on the third press with the same apparent result.  Those extra 6.8A have to be going somewhere.  Amperage is a measure of actual energy, not potential.  My guess is that when it's drawing 8 A, your heater is turning on, and on the third press the heater is turning off.

If the first press is drawing 4.5A, I'm guessing that your heater is turning off when the motor is in high speed.  This would be typical for a 115V hot tub in the USA.

Where are you measuring the amperage?  At the power terminal where your home is connected to the tub, or on the individual components? 

I wouldn't try any DIY wiring on a 240 Volt tub of water I was planning on climbing into.  You can get a retrokit that includes a digital pack, new heater and new topside control panel for under $400 US.  It is safer than gambling with electricity and water and will definitely make your life easier:    https://www.spadepot.com/Balboa-VS-Spa-Control-Kit-P3185

Dave

 

[To cheap to buy new]

I own one of these...have kept it going for 30 years..lol Your second press of the air switch is low speed heater ON..those "extra" amps are going to the heater when the temperature is below whatever you set by the heat control...3rd press is low speed filter no heater. Its all controlled by 3 solenoid plungered microswitches 6 micro switches on 3 solenoid plungers. There is also 3 micro switchs in the air pressred controlled switching drum....I just buy a lot of these micro switches and rebuild those 4 major componets as needed.

First press of air switch + High speed pump (no heater)

Second press Low speed pump + heater (heater only works at this position and this is where I leave mine always when Im not in it)

Third press+ equals low speed pump (no heater)...This functon is completely worthless..never really used it in 30 years.

Now mine is a 120volt USA Built model...I can make a copy of my wiring diagram but I dont really know if its the same.

If you always keep it at the 2nd press setting and adjust the Temp you want with the heater control knob. The unit will turn it self on and off to maintain the set temp. If its not doing that then you have a bad micro switch or heat control.

A little hint if you need parts you can buy the vulcan heat control through Grainger and the micro switches or whole assembled solenoid with microswiches through Newark MUCH MUCH less than using "Jacuzzi" parts,,,lol

for the solenoid controls (there are 3 of them) is s86r11a1b1d1...you will need the 240volt version. I cant remember the heat control part number last one I bought was in 1999

On the second press with the heat control turned all the way up a red light should be on, on the heat control box...If you havent already defeated the magnet switch on the acess cover so everything will run when the cover is open there should be a view hole in your door to look in to see if that light is on.

 

[Cusser]

My 1988 240 VAC CalSpa has a 24-hour timer.  2 hours a day of running is plenty to allow the bromine tablets to dissolve and the water circulate for me.