Jump to content

'05 Tiger River Caspian - Flashing Ready and Power, with Working Circ Pump

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, 

So I know the ready and power lights flashing together mean that the circ pump is not flowing. However, i seem to be having multiple issues.

Back in August my ready and power lights started flashing, so I did the following: (no heat issues yet and I could still see the water breaking from the circ pump)

  • Replaced and cleaned the hot tub filter
    • let it circ without a filter also
  • It was time so I drained my tub (clean and refill, THANKS NITRO!!)
  • I replaced the Silent Flo circ pump with the E5
    • I assumed it was just following too slow for the sensor or was on its way out 
  • Refilled the tub
  • I allowed water to flow out of circ pump (make sure it was not air locked)

Everything worked great until the end of last month (September), at which point the lights came back on. I could see still the water breaking from the circ pump and the heat was still working, so I just assumed bad sensors. Fast forward to Sunday, I came out to find it without heat. Yikes.. Winter is coming fast. 

  • I cleaned out my ozone-er (found out my check valve is bad) 
  • I allowed water to flow out of the heater to make sure it or the circ wasnt air locked
  • I changed out both the Hi-Limit & Temp sensors yesterday (ready and power lights are still flashing)
  • I have power coming into the relay board for the heater, but I don't have power coming out. 
    • What exactly I have I'm not sure, I didn't have my multimeter but I didnt have my tester 
      • I will pull the board tomorrow evening and check for it burning out (going to rain all day today)

At this point, I am at a loss for the best trouble shooting the the low flow code (see the google drive link below to see a video of the circ flow). Edit:  Reading through this here: https://www.justanswer.com/pool-and-spa/8fm0l-tiger-river-sumatran-spa-ready-power.html, it looks like my model's heater has a built in pressure sensor. Im going to try to jump the pins also tomorrow night and see if that solves my "low flow" .... But I dont see solving it getting power to the heater

TheHotTubGuy :

If the pressure switch is bad [on the heater], just bypass it and move on. If the circ pump is not working the hi limit will trip and make the power light flash and shut the tub down until you reset the power. Either way nothing bad will happen....If it turns out the circ pump, is fine and just the pressure switch inside the heater is not working the clip the wires a couple inches from the plug and twist them together and jump those pins. Or buy a new heater. Don't snip any wires until the tub runs fine with the pins temporarily bypassed to be sure the circ pump is fine.

Edit 2: upon farther research, it appears the new/replacement heaters do not use the "extra" pressure switch on the board. As such, I would need a jumper for it, Watkins part number #72768 (or just make my own jumper). 

Edit 3: How to test the heater: credit to Dan.The.Spa.Man



Turn power off to the tub

Open the IQ2020 control box

The heater wires enter the box all the way to the left side. Take all three wires off from the board.

Set your meter for OHMS (upside down horseshoe) and you should get a reading of anywhere from 9.0-14.0 depending on the heater. If it reads O.L. or zero then the heater is bad.

If the heater checks out good, turn power back on with the heater still disconnected, with your meter set for AC voltage, carefully test the terminals from the board that you took the black and white wires off from. You should get either 110v or 220v depending on how your tub is set up. If you don't get this voltage then that whole left side relay board needs to be replaced.

Turn power back off before you reconnect the heater wires.

Good luck.



You can find photos and videos here: https://goo.gl/rPtEXv (please don't judge my photos lol, they were from before I clean it out)

Thanks for reading, hopefully everything was clear. 



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright folks just a conclusion...My heater's internal flow meter went gone bad.

Followed TheHotTubGuy's advice on both items...it after there was no resistance on the sensor (heater side), I nipped the wire and wire nutted it together, the relay kicked over and I had power to the heater again. This was on Friday and all as been well since...good timing, supposed to be 20 here Saturday. 


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...