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xenon2000

Power at board. Panel works. But nothing works. No light. No pumps. Nothing.

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I have a Diamondback Spas, generic spa I figure. Running on a Balboa EL2001 system with an EL2000 mach 2 board. 2 jet pumps, 1 with heater and filter. 1 light. 1 blower pump. 1 O3 system.

It was working fine. Then we had several weeks of monsoon storms and now it does nothing. The control panel works and lights up. No codes. Responds to button presses and lights up the icons like it is turn the light on, or any of the 3 pumps. But nothing actually happens. Act like none of the components have power. All 3 pumps and the light can't all have died at the same time. I have reset the breaker box. Same thing. I have tested all the fuses, they are good. I tested the extra leads on the board that go to the Neutral, Black, and Red hot mains and those have power too.

I can't think of anything else to look into. I figure it has to be something with the board.. it's only 1 years old, the board. But doesn't mean something didn't happen to it. Any ideas on what to check for? Just seems odd that ALL the functions don't work even though the panel does.

Edited by xenon2000
updated board info

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Power down the spa.  Disconnect the topside.  Remember which plug it was connected to.

Power on the spa.  Balboa spas default to 80 degrees, so pump 1 and the heater should turn after the 5-7 minute priming cycle.  If it does, it tells me the spa works with the topside disconnected and doesn't work with the topside connected, which makes me think the topside is bad.

When you press your control panel buttons, do you hear the relay's activate on the spa pack?   If so, how did you check the fuses?  You need to remove them from the circuit board to check for continuity.  If you check them while on the board, you will get continuity through the board itself.

Dave

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On 9/22/2018 at 8:14 PM, Jersey Hot Tub Repair said:

Power down the spa.  Disconnect the topside.  Remember which plug it was connected to.

Power on the spa.  Balboa spas default to 80 degrees, so pump 1 and the heater should turn after the 5-7 minute priming cycle.  If it does, it tells me the spa works with the topside disconnected and doesn't work with the topside connected, which makes me think the topside is bad.

When you press your control panel buttons, do you hear the relay's activate on the spa pack?   If so, how did you check the fuses?  You need to remove them from the circuit board to check for continuity.  If you check them while on the board, you will get continuity through the board itself.

Dave

Thanks for the info. None of the 3 motors or the water light turn on. Even though the panel claims they turn on. Phoenix heat is still hot enough that the spa is still over 80 without the heater running. But the pump never runs so if the heater did turn on it would overheat I would think since the pumps don't turn on.

I will check the fuses again. The wire running through the glass housing does not appear broken, but I will check then again. But I would be shocked if ALL the fuses went out at the same time. And shouldn't the panel act differently with the fuses blown?

I don't even hear any of the relay packs energize. Is there an appropriate way to manually trigger them to test?

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If the spaside display works and the indicator lights come on, it's getting it's 12V, so I'd look elsewhere for a solution.

You should have two 115 legs coming into the spa (usually a 6 gauge stranded red and black wire to the white terminal block on the left of the circuit board).  Only one of them feeds the 12V circuitry that runs your control panel, so if you've lost a leg, the control panel could theoretically work even though nothing else does.

Check for 115V between line 1 and neutral.  115V between line 2 and neutral.   230V between line 1 and line 2.

Did you test the GFCI?  If there's a problem with your Neutral line, the GFCI won't work.  A problem with Neutral could be affecting the tub.

You could hot wire the pumps to a regular 115V outlet, even if they are 230V pumps, just to see if they turn.  But any Balboa circuit board I've ever worked on makes an audible click when a relay is activated, so my guess the is the relay's aren't closing and opening when you press the topside buttons.  You can also test the pump receptacles on the circuit board with your voltmeter when you press the topside buttons, but I doubt if they are activating since you don't hear the relay.

If power checks out and the GFCI checks out, assuming the fuses are good (you didn't answer my question about whether you removed them to check them), it points to a circuit board issue. 

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I think what I am asking is beyond the scope of this forum. But if someone knows, that would be cool. To be more specific, I am looking for help to repair my Balboa 53414 EL2001 M2.1 board. Because I am sure it's the board. No way that 3 motors and the light all went bad at the exact same time. And the fuses and power are all fine.

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UPDATE:

I still had the old 2005 board, which it's only symptom was that it wouldn't heat the water. So they said it was the board and replaced the board and all was well until now. So I looked at the old board and saw a bad solder on 1 of the heater relays and the super short jumper wire was fried. So I soldered the relay and replaced the jumper wired and installed the old EL2001 board. So now everything activates on the spa with the repaired old board. Motors, lights, etc.

But, now I have to wait and see if the water heats since the repairs I did. Since that was the only thing that didn't work on this older board.

So is there a way to test the heater element output to confirm the repairs without waiting to see if the water heats up? If the water doesn't heat with the repair, I will then try replacing both relays.

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All repaired. No idea what is wrong with the newer Rev C 2016 board, but I replaced a relay on the older 2005 Rev B board and that is now working so I am using that. 

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