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Press Jet Button and Just Hear a Click


Aaronius

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I have a Sundance Majesta 880 that has 2 jet buttons running 2 single speed pumps. I hit the button for button for jet 2 and only hear a click from the motherboard. Jet 1 pump runs fine. I checked the fuses with an ohm meter and they all seemed to have resistance appropriately. I replaced pump 2 and still have the same result. I'm new with this, though; and after a few videos of how to check fuses thought I did that correctly. Does the click symptom sound like something anyone's familiar with? 

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Yep, test at the connection points where the wires come off the board. If you're not getting proper voltage/no voltage then it's likely a board issue. Maybe a faulty relay based on the clicking sound. If you are getting proper voltage at the board, retest at the connections on the pump to verify it's not the wiring. If both are good then it's a pump issue. 

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You DO have the wires going to the correct spot on the board, right?  You took a picture of the old installation, or you followed the schematic glued to the inside of the electronics box cover, right?

To check the fuses, you need to remove them from the board.  Did you do that?

If yes on both questions, swap the wires for pump 1 & 2 where they attach tot he circuit board to see if the problem is the board or pump.

Dave

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Thanks, Dave. I changed the wiring at the pump during replacement, and didn’t do anything at the board except check fuses. I checked the fuses by removing them, setting the meter for ohm/resistance, and checking for flux in the signal. Will try swapping the pump connections at the board to see if it’s board or pump issue.

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Did you replace the pump with the exact same model or a different one?  Different motors have different wiring posts.  For example, some motors have neutral as the center post and some have it as the top post.  Even within the same pump manufacturer, they use different motors so you have to go by the label on the side of the motor to tell you which is the hot and which is the common.

If you purchased an LX brand pump, which Jacuzzi has begun to use on their spas, you may need to set it for 230V if it came set for 115 from the factory (assuming it's a dual voltage pump).

Dave

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>>>> . I checked the fuses by removing them, setting the meter for ohm/resistance, and checking for flux in the signal

My ohm meter beeps when there's continuity, so that's how I check fuses.  I'm not sure what you mean by "flux in the signal."   Try touching your ohm meter leads together - do you hear a beep or a tone?  If so, your meter is reporting that there's continuity, and you should get that same result when checking the fuses.

A 230V pump gets 115V over the common lead and 115V over the hot lead.  I'm guessing the relay is the hot lead.  If you put your voltmeter across the relay to the common, you should see 230V when the circuit is running, but from either the common or hot to ground only 115V.  

Relay's usually have connectors labeled NO, NC and COM. (stands for normally open, normally closed and common)  Is your pump 2 connected to the same lead on the relay as all the other pumps?  In almost every tub I've ever worked on, they use NO for pumps.  Is it possible something got switched on the relay connector?

Dave

 

 

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I've got a relatively cheap ohm meter, and not the "power windows" beep. :) But, basically, probes not touching yields an "L" on the screen by default, touching the probes together yields some changing numeric values (I was calling "flux" in the signal), and a "working" fuse that also has continuity also yields some numeric fluctuations (which I'm taking as "resistance") vs a non-working fuse (which also shows "L").

On another note, I think I found my issue based on your inquiry about the relay ("NO" labeled on the relay, btw). I hit the button for the malfunctioning jet, and then tapped on each relay a few times. Eventually, tapping one of the relays cause the pump to turn on! After a youtube video about replacing a relay, I see that I'm probably now up against replacing the relay (~$10) vs new motherboard (~$450).

I've got a bit of a learning curve in the area of electronics, and any advice would be appreciated. But, I believe I'll need a solder wick for the removal of the old relay, and a light solder gun (I have a heavier one that's likely to hot for a motherboard), and the new relay. 

Thanks for the help!

-ak 

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