Jump to content

2002 Caldera Paradise Martinique replacement board and topside


TheWGP

Recommended Posts

Thanks for those links @TheWGP .

I ended up ordering this: https://www.spapartsdepot.com/caldera-spas-thermistor-control-for-advent-control-system-caldera-2002-to-current-72493/

I did see the calderaspapartsplus.com site.....but decided on the above because there was a difference of about $5.00 in shipping and no sales tax.  So a bit less money.

I have been thinking about that O-ring!!!  I tried to find one on the site I used but the only thing they had was the entire assembly to house the sensor for about $20.
I'll check out Lowe's if the one I have looks like it needs to be replaced.

The dealer in our area told me that Caldera has been closed down throughout this entire Covid-19 mess....and they are running out of hot tubs to sell.....also having problems getting parts.  He told me he could order me the OEM part.....but said it would probably be several weeks to get it.  Also told me that he can't get a lot of the parts and has several customers waiting for replacement covers/etc. that he can't get because of the shutdown!

This forum is awesome!!  How else could you ever find out other people's issues with the same hot tub!

I'll post again if this sensor repairs the issue I'm having.

Thank Again!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@TheWGP and @RDspaguy 

The actual temperature sensor came today.  I powered down and drained the tub to below the sensor.  Made sure I got the old intact O-Ring from the old sensor.  Installed the new sensor and refilled the tub.  Powered it back up and THE SAME PROBLEM STILL EXISTS!!!

I know that @RDspaguy said to replace the sensors in pairs.....but I guess I didn't think the high limit sensor would affect the display of the actual temperature.  Is it possible that the High Limit Temperature sensor can affect the display of the actual temp?  If so, I can give that a try; buy a new high limit sensor and replace it.

One thing I did try was that I powered the tub down again and disconnected the high limit temp. sensor and then powered it back up to see what would happen.  What happened was I got a bar across the display screen.....powered the tub back down; reconnected the high limit temp sensor to the circuit board, powered back up and back to square one.

So what do you think guys....do I replace the high limit temp. sensor also or do I call it quits and resign myself that it is the control board causing this problem???

I can always keep the actual temperature setting and the water temperature far apart......it bit of a nuisance but not too bad.

I winterize the tub because I am not home during those months....so no worries there when the temps would be close together most of the time.

Looking forward to your replies.....

Mike 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure @RDspaguy....high limit sensor or display and board replacement?

I found a phone number to Caldera/Watkins Tech support.....they told me that the top end display needs to be replaced and they no longer make that unit so I would need to replace the control box also.  They gave me the attached part numbers.  The price seems high to resurrect a 20 year old hot tub!  Might need to just keep the temp setting and the actual water temperature far apart until death do us part? 

Caldera Replacement Topside.jpg

Caldera Replacement Control Box.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would go ahead and replace the other sensor, based on best practices and RDSpaGuy's recommendation - it's cheap.

Still, based on my personal experience and what Caldera/Watkins said, I wouldn't be shocked if the topside is the issue.

Finding replacement topsides for this 18-year-old tub at this point is very much a no-man's land of dead stock from dealers and possibly or definitely used parts, where you have to take your chances on whether anything will really work or not.  The supply of these topsides is just. not. out. there.  I know, because I'm looking for one too! So, if you want to keep it running and have the $ available, it may make sense to upgrade to the new control box and topside.

As long as you keep switching the temperature to keep the issue at bay, I would be worried that your heater relay board is going to give out, if you forget to reset the temperature one day and the relays keep going on and off. I had this happen a couple of times before I got things stabilized, and the boards are about $150ish - not killer by themselves, but it adds up.

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, I meant the other sensor.

Bear in mind, tech support at a major manufacturer is generally headed up by a knowledgeable person with a staff of multiple inexperienced minimum wage call jockeys who have a book (or computer these days) of if-then scenarios (if this then replace that). If the book says "if display is malfunctioning replace control" then that is what they will say. Especially if it is the safe answer, like when they don't make it anymore. Your control system will undoubtedly work if you have to buy a new one. That does not necessarily mean they are wrong, but the answer is not based on any real-world troubleshooting ability, it's just as close as the book gets to your problem.

As WGP said, sensors are cheap, and is more likely to be the cause as it is the actual temp reading that fluctuates, not the set temp which is subject to the buttons in the control pad. The actual temp is sent to the display from the sensors via the circuit board, so I would say it is more likely the board than the controller. But I would still try the sensor first even though the temp sensor is supposed to be the one that sends it's reading to the display.

Generic control systems can be had for $300 - $400 these days. They would require a single breaker and new wire as well. Depending on the location of your 2 breaker disconnect panel, that could be less than $150. Still less than the proprietary watkins controls, and then you at least have a control system that is cheap and easy to fix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@RDspaguy and @TheWGP  Thank you guys for your thoughtful responses.  I really appreciate the time you are spending (virtually) with me and my problem here.   I hear you about the "techs" from the OEM.....she did put me on hold for about 15 minutes and said she consulted with a senior tech.....but like you said @RDspaguy........

I have the High Limit sensor on order.....we will see if this solves the issue.

It really isn't that big of a deal to keep those temperatures far apart.....especially this time of the year and summer.  I even have a secondary sensor in the hot tub where I can remotely monitor the temperature on the internet.  Got several because when we go away for the winter I can monitor the tub remotely, also freezer/fridge and room temperatures for any problems. 

Decided since though that it would be safer to winterize the hot tub in case something failed while away for the winter.....and also because of this fluctuation problem.

One question @TheWGP....why are you hunting around for a new topside?  What sort of issue(s) are you having....that I can look forward to? 

image.png.fa702a8cd9b3705067843eaedb25b48c.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not having current issues - knock on wood!

I recently had a random main board failure and got my board repaired, but before that my setup ran fine for about 2 years, out of 3 1/'4 I've owned the tub, ever since I swapped out the whole control box and topside for a used matching set I got off ebay.  Looking at my options for repair vs. replacement of the main board, I realized that the topside would likely also need to be changed.  This led me to discover that replacement topsides are now extremely difficult to find, even compared to 2 years ago. 

So, if I can find a used or new old stock topside - or even just the housing or the ribbon cable - at a reasonableish price, I'm going to snap it up, because if my current topside fails then all of a sudden I've got a non-running tub and no quick way to get a new part.  I live in Ohio and keep the tub running through the winter, so I'd like to have some redundancy on hand.

If I saw someone selling other parts cheaply I might buy those too, but we are fortunate that most of the 2002 Martinique's main parts other than the mainboard and topside still appear to be used on current Watkins/Caldera models, so they are still readily available.  Because other control systems are available too, as RDSpaGuy mentions, I think as long as the shell and plumbing are OK, our tubs can be kept going - it's just an individual question of how much work and money is worth it.  For me, it's a fun hobby!

One question - could you link me to the water sensor that goes to the internet you use?  I've seen some of these before but always wondered how well they worked, and if the one you use is reliable, I might like to try it.  Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@TheWGP 

The temperature sensors I use are totally reliable.....I leave my home for four months during the winter and never have had a glitch.

Here's a Link to the web site: https://www.acurite.com/shop-all/weather-instruments/weather-sensors-and-parts/monitor-with-liquid-soil-temperature-sensor-00275ls.html

You also need the Acurite Hub to monitor it remotely on the Internet: 

Here's a link to the Hub: https://www.acurite.com/shop-all/weather-instruments/weather-sensors-and-parts/displays/access-my-acurite-remote-monitoring.html

I have a complete weather (wind/rain/humidity) station also that is part of the overall system, and also probes for my refrigerator and freezer and basement, living room, bedroom, etc.

I've attached photos of how I set it up the liquid/soil sensor in the Hot Tub, and also some of the other sensors I have (weather station and sensor in my freezer), photo of the Ethernet internet hub, as well as screen shot of how the Internet display dashboard looks.  I live in upstate New York...so probably close to the same weather you get.

 

IMG_1926.JPG

IMG_1928.JPG

IMG_1924.JPG

IMG_1927.JPG

Annotation 2020-06-02 123607.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh wow, that's cool!  I may have to look into it.  We are home all the time, so my main interest is in a remote monitoring of the tub temp to see if there's been any issue with it.  It would come in handy when we go on vacation too.  Thank you for posting the links especially!

I did notice one difference between our tubs - you have the white/sandstone, and I have the blue! 😂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@TheWGP Keep an eye out on that web site for sales.  They sometimes bundle sensors and the Ethernet Hub together at a pretty good savings.  One thing I learned.....use name brand batteries (Duracell) for the sensors that are in "normal" temperature extremes......and if you are monitoring a freezer use Lithium batteries.  I change them once per year.

Also use https://wyze.com/wyze-cam.html cameras all over inside and outside the house to monitor remotely.

So I have another question.....I didn't really pay attention to the high limit temperature sensor when I was replacing the actual temperature sensor yesterday.  Can't really find instructions on how to change it.  Is this surface mounted on the heater or am I going to have to drain down the hot tub again?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RDSpaGuy can give you the spa tech view, but mine was underneath a bit of pipe insulation, ziptied into place on the heater tube - no need to touch the water. Quick and easy replacement.

Thanks for the intelligence about the sales and batteries!  It means a lot to know there's something dependable on the market now - I had looked at some a couple of years ago that just didn't seem to be reliable.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you don't care about the ability to monitor the spa temperature via the Internet.....then you don't need the Ethernet Hub.....there is a cheaper solution:

https://www.acurite.com/shop-all/weather-instruments/weather-sensors-and-parts/displays/indoor-outdoor-home-environment-display-with-4-zone-capability.html

Also....just ordered that sensor this morning and they shipped it out already!!  Should get it maybe Thursday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Huh!  That's cool!  I kinda like that idea, put some sensors outside and in the tub and a couple of other spots.

We often - in the heat of summer - run the tub at 96 so it feels like a pool during the day, then bump it up to 103 or whatnot if we think we'll want to get in it that evening, so it might actually be cool to have a display that shows where it's at. 

Truthfully, I WOULD like the Internet option, and the app and all that - but I know my wife would never use it, where she would that display.  I'm going to talk to her about it and probably wait for a sale, lol!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@RDspaguy @TheWGP  

Well....High limit temperature sensor came today.  That had to be the easiest thing in the world to replace!  Held onto a groove on the heater with nothing but a fairly stiff foam insulation and two tie wraps on each end of the insulation.

Anyway.....no dice.  It was worth a shot!  Still have the dancing display for the actual temperature.

If nothing else, I learned a lot about the workings of the hot tub.

I have the part numbers for the new circuit board and topside.....when/if it craps out I'll evaluate then if it's worth replacement.

I've  looked long and hard at the circuit board and wiring....and it looks like a replacement job that I can handle with no problem.

Also while I was in there....I noticed that the neoprene tubing for the Monarch Ozonator was very "soft" in places....so I replaced that also.

For now....I'll keep the temperatures far apart!

Thanks for your help and input guys!

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

@RDspaguy @TheWGP

Hi Guys!  Remember me??

I "gifted" my hot tub to my brother in law.  After the move (it was tipped on it's side - but done by a mover)......the tub no longer heats.  I found a video on youtube where the person had a similar spa and determined it was the heater relay board.  I viewed the video and at 4:10 in the video (Fixing A Cold Hot Tub... - YouTube) he describes how he measured the voltage on the old board.  I did this and had the same symptoms as me.  I ordered a new board (Caldera Spa Heater Relay Board 2002 - 2009 #77119 - Caldera Spa Parts Plus).  Attached is a screen shot of the board and I circled where I measured zero voltage accross the terminals circled in red.  Do you guys think I'm on the right track?  Thanks in advance for your help!

Screenshot 2022-08-15 130239.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@RDspaguy I thought that these were not the correct terminals to check the voltage.....I was following the video and this is where he measured.....but....all is good.  I removed the Heater Relay Board and this is what it looked like.  Burnt Relay.  Replaced the board with the 4th generation board and the Hot Tub heats fine!

300545503_456520573191271_9000824244481361408_n.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...