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Caldera Kauai does then doesn't hold temperature


JACKVJR

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On 10/8/2019 at 5:08 PM, Nic Macy said:

I am having the same problem with my same spa.  Shut the power off and turn on and it gets up to temp.  Next day it's back down to 95-97.  Replaced circulation pump, pressure switch, bypassed pressure switch, filter is clean, replaced the heater circuit board three times, each time the spa works as it should For  a   few  months then goes back into this state of not staying at set temp.  Help

 

Weeere back!  Same Caldera Kauai, same problem.  The replacement heater and pressure switch fix lasted less than two years.  The continuing mystery is the OEM heater and pressure switch removed the first go-round still test out and function.  The unit is still in the shelf.  Maybe it's going back in.

jack vines

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  • 4 weeks later...

One more request for the logic/mechanical circuit which senses low temperature and calls for heat, but the heater is not switched on.

1. The condition is definitely affected by outside temperature.  Above 40 degrees, the system will sometimes hold temperature.  Below 40 degrees, it will never respond to the call for heat.

2. The heater and pressure switch are new.  The pressure switch and heater makes heat the first time when the circuit is rebooted.

3. When the water temperature drops, the red heater indicator light comes on, but the heater does not.  What's between the light and the heater?  The red light being on indicates the low temp sensor has called for heat, the pressure switch is OK, so what's supposed to be switching on the heater, but is not?

5. The red light is on and jumpering the pressure switch terminals does not turn on the heater, so it's not the pressure switch.

6. Verified by a reliable thermometer, the water temp has never gotten above 106.  Earlier, a failing high limit switch was suggested.  Why would a failing high limit switch be affected by outside temperature?

Earlier in this thread, Nic Macy told us, 

Quote

replaced the heater circuit board three times, each time the spa works as it should for a  few  months then goes back into this state of not staying at set temp.

What is this telling us?  Could Watkins circuit boards only have a three month life span?

jack vines

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1) The opposite is not uncommon, but that's a very strange circumstance. Watkins systems won't heat if they are too cold, as I learned in Tahoe where fill water is COLD. Could the temp sensor or high limit be exposed to air in the equipment area?

2) Does it heat all the way to set temp? Does it surpass set temp?

3) How do you know it did not turn on? Do you have a mutimeter? Check for voltage at the heater terminals on the board.

Between the light and the heater is the relay board, which is controlled by several control circuits. If it heats properly after reset this is not the issue. Is the other led on the board also lit?

4) where is #4? I feel cheated! 😉

5) Ok. Most watkins systems aren't smart regarding the pressure/flow switch, but I am not certain on a Caldera. On other brands a jumpered (or shorted) switch would trigger an error. Maybe @castletoniamight know.

6) Never is a pretty strong word. Is it digital and records highest and lowest temps, or are saying never that you have seen?

Failing sensors are a common cause of heater issues. You can test the sensors with a mutimeter set to 20k ohms. Test both while unplugged from the board and post results.

As for a 3 month lifespan, I have seen them last a decade or more, which is typical in my experience. They are the same type of relay used on every other circuit board out there, so Nic clearly had another issue.

Post a pic of your circuit board and parts you replaced.

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I don't have much experience with any Caldera older than 2015 but looking into it a 2008 Caldera used the same IQ2020 control box as Hot Spring.  The heater is different than Hot Spring was.  Honestly wouldn't have a clue what is going on (service isn't my specialty).  Yes, those heater relay circuit boards were more prone to failure than the newer generations, but if you are constantly frying the relay board, that would indicate either the main control board is the causing the issue or there could be an issue with incoming power.

Personal opinion.  If the original electronics have had that many issues that keep reoccurring and there is no remedy in sight, I would be seriously considering an upgrade to the current electronics.  Yes, it is a bit spendy, but why keep throwing money and parts into the old style when it appears the outcome will repeatedly be the same?

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6 hours ago, castletonia said:

why keep throwing money and parts into the old style

Aren't the new style relay boards interchangeable? Would he need to replace the main board to use a new style relay board?

I am no watkins expert by any means, but I think the heater main power never leaves the relay board. The connecting wires feed the relays for the other components on the main board, but heater power does not go through. Only the control circuits at the pin connector come off the main board. Those control circuits could have a failed component causing frequent switching of the relays, which would heat them up and burn them out fairly quick, but you would probably notice the clicking sound. 

I personally would be alot more certain before I sprang for a new IQ2020. But then, that's why I cost $100/hr. 😉 Take an ohm reading on the heater. Check for loose, discolored, or damaged connectors on the heater and main power wires. Watch for frequent heater cycling, which could indicate flow issues. Verify STEADY incoming voltage, if it fluctuates it's probably a bad breaker.

 

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