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CC off the charts right after refill?


m7cl

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 I just replaced the water in my tub and I'm having some super strange chlorine issues. Here is what I've done so far.

 

Day one I test and balance the water (lower ph from 8.0 to 7.6 using sodium bisulfate), then shock with MPS and chlorinate with dichlor. I leave it over night to do its thing and go for a soak the next day. I quickly tested with a test strip for convenience and needed to add 1.5 tsp of dichlor to raise Fc to 4ppm 10-15 minutes before my soak. Water felt great, had a very slight chlorine smell at first tho. two days layer (day 4 after refill) I re test to check Ph, Cl etc. I find that my ph is back up at 8.0, I have 0 Fc and my Cc is 3ppm. So I re treat with sodium bisulfate and get Ph back down to 7.6, I shock with MPS a second time since I had 0 Fc, and added dichlor to 5ppm of Fc. 

 

So today (day 5 after re fill), I re test and my numbers are as follows. Something just seems off, new water shouldn't have CC like it seems to have! Im kinda lost here. For the record I am testing with the Taylor K2005 test kit with dpd. 

Fc 1 

CC 3

PH 7.6 

Alk 80

CH 100 

CYA (not sure, waiting for more reagent from taylor) 

 

What am I missing folks? 

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Alkalinity is low, could result in the high pH. If you use jets the aeration increases pH, though it looks fine in last test. What was condition of your plumbing before the new water? Had you used a cleaning solution like AhhSome before draining? Residue of bacterial scum could overcome MPS shock and Dichlor, using up your FC and resulting in continued production of CC instead. Try treating your tub plumbing, drain again, refill and see what happens. If that is too much water to waste try super-shocking with high dose of chlorine bleach instead of dichlor and MPS. Do not add anything else, focus on chlorine. Continue testing for TA. If low add sodium bicarb (common soda or use soda ash) to keep TA in normal range to avoid acidic water and protect metal equipment. High TA is better than low. Once you see good FC  for a couple days retest pH, balance with chlorine and alkaline if needed. I bet it's something in the plumbing that survived your refill.

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Oops, early high pH is probably result of aeration, not low TA. Your last test may be best indication of true pH. Actually, looking back at numbers on day 5 they are not bad. Add straight chlorine (NOT non-splash type, it foams) leave pH alone, CH looks OK, CCis not bad, you still had 1ppm CL. See what you get after more chlorine.

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I did use a plumbing cleaner when I drained the tub last. I ran seaklear for a half hour with the pump on high while switching through all the jet diverter settings. Actually I even sucked the water out of the plumbing with a shop vac before refilling. 

 

I did read that MPS will affect a dpd cc test reading, but I'm wondering how long after treatment it will affect the test. 

 

Are you suggesting I add regular ol household bleach that you buy from the laundry detergent isle at the store? 

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Yes, good old household high concentration (6%) liquid bleach, regular formula, NOT splashless. Go to Forum for chemistry and look up the Bleach Method. The advice is written by spa/pool water chemists who know. They convinced me that regular household chemicals are all that is in effective spa formulations that cost alot.

Since you did a good job cleaning out your plumbing try standard bleach for the CL and test pH before you do jets or long after. Remember to keep TA on highish normal side.

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Check TA. If it is in normal range along with normal range pH, then do not mess with it. But do try the bleach to super chlorinate and activate bromine. I follow the Forum advice about using normal bleach, 1/2 cup after each spa use and 1 cup before leaving for a week or so and 1 cup before use on return. Keeps my spa clean. I also use an ozone generator that runs 24/7 in my full time filtration cycle. Good luck. Stick with the Forum advisors.

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