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No Pump, But Selenoid Click From Balboa Control


TheCarsForever

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Hello,

I have a California Cooperage spa from Coleman that has stopped pumping.  The pump makes no noise at all, but the Balboa Instruments control (model 52708-02) makes a solenoid clicking sound when I press the JETS button on the spa control panel.  Everything seems to be working except the pump as I get heater, lights and control panel.  The heater does cycle as I hear a wooshing sound from it occasionally and then see HH on the spa control panel (high heat).  When I open the Balboa control box there are two black square pieces in the center and I am pretty sure the click comes from one of them (marked in an attached pic and K2/K3 in the wiring diagram).  This all started with a few times where the pump would stop, but if we power cycled the spa at the household breaker it would work for a day or two.  Now all we get is a click and no pump.

I am fairly handy, but am not an electrician nor am I very good at interpreting wiring diagrams.  I live in a pretty rural area so my options to get someone out to check the system are pretty limited but am hopeful I can get this going without needing to send someone out.  That said, I am unsure what to check at this point.  Does anyone have an idea what I can check or if there something I need to replace?

Thanks in advance,

Chris

Clicking Selenoids (Small).jpg

Wiring Diagram.jpg

Entire Control Box #2.jpg

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Do you hear a "hummmmm" when you press the JETS button?  If so, check the back of the pump.  There is a screw slotted shaft in the center.  It may be covered with a plastic cover that you can pry off.  Put a screwdriver into the shaft and see if you can turn it.  It should turn easily. If not, the motor is seized.  Rebuild or replace.

9 out of 10 times I encounter a dead pump, it's because the motor is seized and we get that humming.  Sometimes you also smell electrical burning.  That may have happened a few days ago and the electrical circuit in the pump could be burned up.

The solenoid clicking is a good sign, but still doesn't mean that electricity is going to the pump.  If you're comfortable using a multi-meter, you can test the connector on the circuit board that the pump is plugged into.  Check both circuits, the red and black.  You should see either 115V or 220V, depending upon how your hot tub is configured and the voltage on the pump.  I can see in your photo that it's a 240 VAC installation, but it's conceivable (although not too common) to have 115V pumps in a 240V spa,

Very very rarely, cables get fried.  Although highly unlikely, it wouldn't hurt to check the wires where they go into the pump electronics for damage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for the info.  After my last post I did some additional digging around and have found that the pump 'hums' softly during the PR cycle (priming).  This hum is only loud enough to hear when the wall of the tub is removed but it is definitely noticable.  After the priming cycle finishes, I get no sound from the pump even if I press the JETS button.  I was also able to confirm that the large 25 AMP slow burn fuses are good.  Since I do hear the pump, even if only a little, I am assuming the pump has given up the ghost.  The entire setup is about 12 years old with no real issues prior to this so I am not entirely shocked that something has finally gone south.  I was able to source a replacement pump from an outfit named SpaGuts selling on Amazon.  I found a few other vendors selling a replacement pump for a little less but feel more comfortable buying through Amazon just in case there is an issue.  I already have the pump disconnected, which was surprisingly easy, so it should be a pretty quick process to get everything going again once the pump arrives.

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  • 5 years later...

My main jet pump does NOT turn off!  Runs continuously.  Talked with a local spa tech in the area and he says, probably a stuck relay?  Master spa does sell a replacement circuit board but at $400+ I would like to see if the existing board can  be repaired.  I found the relays on digi-key for less than $3 but finding a schematic is another story??  Anyone else tried replacing a component on a Master Spa circuit board?  thanks

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